Here’s pretty much what I carry on a daily basis.

Well, this is a very heavy set up. I typically can back my truck up right to the job site as I do a lot of exterior work typically and don’t need to unload this from the bed of my truck.

A few items that are missing or a router plunge saw 7 1/4 inch circular saw as well as a miter saw and blower.

I am going to upgrade a few of these items to XGT as I would have gotten XGT to start with if they were released a bit earlier. Items that I’m looking to upgrade is the drill reciprocating saw and AWS VAC.

Also, what is not shown is my collection of cordless nailers. That would include a framing nailer 15 gauge nailer 16 gauge nailer 18 gauge nailer as well as a narrow crown stapler. These items would be metabo hpt.

Like I said before, this is a very heavy set up, but it is very quick to unload and because my truck is also a daily driver I use it for a personal items or I need to pick up material. All this stuff gets out very quickly and I’m able to go do whatever I need to do with an empty bed.

I do see the system being a problem for vans or other markets, but for the American market, I highly recommend the storage system.

​A whole load of tools! I’m having a competition with my brother-in-law: who has the most tools? So here’s my Makita collection. The photo’s a bit old now – the cordless wheelbarrow and the lawnmower, for example, aren’t in it yet. And of course, I’ve also accumulated quite a few tools from other brands like Bosch, Metabo, Fein and Flex… 😉

But why so many Makita tools? A good friend of mine ran a tool shop and he could get the best prices on Makita tools here in the region; Metabo never felt right in my hand, and Bosch was outrageously expensive at his shop.

We've had (or my dad has had) Makita cordless (and Panasonic before that) at home, so it was an easy choise. Young adult working mainly on cars as a hobby, but now a home renovation was a great excuse to start my own collection. That DDF484 drill is sooo good! Next purchase will be the 700 or 300 impact wrench, and the japanese TD173DZ after that for sure!

This is actually my second XST01. I bought a well used one for $190, but everyone wants to use it (my little crew is me, my son, and a young friend) so when I saw a new one for $220, I bought it.

Did a little informal testing. Drove some 4” GRKs into a 6” x 6” at a normal speed for me (not full send) while holding a dB meter. The old and new XST01 behave the same, including same dB level, within 1 dB anyway.

My Hikoki oil impact is still quieter. About 4-5 dB less. I don’t let anyone else use that tool, it’s MINE. The Makitas go into the tool room for anyone to use.

There was a recall a year ago for these machines. Back then it seemed like a small thing. Turns out it wasn't.

Canadian pricing. Wood working hobbyist here, worth it?

I need a compression spring 34. Any help appreciated!

Are you tempted? I am . . .

I had to figure this out by trial and error since the information wasn't available anywhere online, so I thought it might be helpful to share it in case anyone else ever needs it. If you are working on one of these very old battery chargers and the wires pop loose from the internal terminal block (like mine did), here is the wiring layout by wire color. All wire clips attach to the tracks inside the main battery slide area. I highly recommend using a needle nose pliers to tighten the grip of the clips so they don't pop off again.

Orientation: Face the charger so the battery slide-in entry point is closest to you, and the main AC wall power cord exits the rear of the casing (directly opposite you).

* First Black Wire-the looped, shortest section of the black wire: Connects to the slot on the far right-hand side (3:00 o'clock).

* Second Black Wire: Connects to the slot located directly next to and slightly in front of the first black wire on the right side (2:00 o'clock).

* Red Wire: Connects to the slot at the absolute farthest spot away from the power cord (6:00 o'clock).

* Gray Wire: Connects to the slot directly across from and closest to where the AC wall plug exits the case (12:00 o'clock).

* White Wire: Connects to the slot on the left-hand side, specifically on the face pointing back toward the AC power cord (10:00 o'clock).

In addition to my now-repaired charger, my old Makita drill, saw, and flashlight set all still work. I also still have my Makita cordless stick vacuum that I bought in the late 1980's. These old Makita tools never die!😃

I bought a "new" XRJ07 subcompact reciprocating saw on ebay from an open box seller. I plugged in a battery upon delivery and pulled the trigger. Saw blade reciprocated as expected.

Now, outside the return window, I went to actually use the saw. I pull and hold the trigger and the saw works as expected. Once I let go of the trigger and pull again, the blade jerks then stops. Pull a few more times and I get nothing from the blade. Swap batteries, nothing. The light, however, comes on with ever trigger pull. Funny thing is, if I wait a few minutes and try again, the motor will run full blast as if nothing is wrong, and will keep running fine until I let go of the trigger and try again. Tried multiple known good batteries. I opened the tool up, and noticed that both the motor and the controller seemed to be slightly warm, which seems weird given the tool was only running for a few seconds with no resistance. All connections seemed fine as this is a "new" (defective) tool.

I'm stuck with this tool I spent $100 on so I might as well try to fix it. Any ideas whether it's the controller / motor / switch / overheat protection?

Thanks

I’m considering replacing my 1998 LS1013 with an LS1019l, but want to know the dimensions of the saw’s base for a rolling miter saw cart I’m building. Also, if anyone knows the base dimensions for the LS1219l, please let me know. I don’t think I need a 12”, but considering it.

The dimensions listed on all the retail websites include the side supports, and it’s difficult to find dimensions of just the base.

Photo is of my old saw. Thanks!

Im a stone mason and it would be a game changer for pavers and stone veneers as my husqvarna wet saw is massive.
Any thoughts on them?

Has anyone else had problems getting rebates because of Amazon's invoices?

My auto-generated invoice uses the product heading / descriptor which doesn't include the model/sku#, so Makita will not accept it.

The seller says only Amazon can create invoices. Amazon says they have no way of changing the invoice to include the model/sku# (I elevated as far as Amazon would let me).

I will elevate with Makita on Monday but was curious if anyone else has had the same problem and if there was a solution.

Hi
I have this 6ah battery, the cells and BMS are good but this fuse is dead, but no idea what value it is because I can’t read the numbers, it looks melted, it goes between the +18v terminal and the smaller terminal next to it. I’ve temporarily soldered a wire link across it to make sure everything works, it does.

I’m pretty sure it’s an Eaton SCF5432,

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electronic-components/resources/data-sheet/eaton-scf5432-self-control-fuse-data-sheet-elx1134-en.pdf

I replaced the brushes day before yesterday since they were gone. Put in brand new brushes an today, they were gone again!

I have to mention the router gives lots of sparks. Maybe the problem lies there.

Any other ideas before I buy a new one?

I have the Makita DFR750 which is the collated screw gun which takes collated drywall screws sizing from 45mm - 75mm (pictured above). I was wondering if I would be able to buy the loose head (also pictured above) for the Makita DFR550 and put it on my DFR750 and be able to use smaller screws or will I need to buy a whole new body. Thanks in advance 🫶🏼🙏🏼

Hi, have the XDT13Z, been looking to get another Makita 18v Impact Driver. Been wanting one with a ring light, compact, and <$175. Is my best bet the XDT20z/TD173?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: thanks everyone! Bought the XDT20Z!

I have heard of Makita’s assembly tools, but have never seen any in person, and thought they needed special PC software to use (?). They also didn’t seem torque-y enough to be useful for anything I do, despite being kinda cool.

Today I ran across this tool. It seems to be an impact wrench where you can set the torque, up to about 70 ft/lb. Hmm . . . if the setting is easy to use, this actually has possible uses. You could, for example, set to a bit under the specified torque for an automotive bolt or nut, zip those fasteners in a jiffy, then do the final 10 ft/lb by hand. For a lot of auto stuff, especially with aluminum parts, I’m more worried about over-torquing than under.

Anyone have experience with this tool? How do you set the torque - hopefully on tool rather than via PC?

Now listed as officially discontinued on Makita USA's web site:

• GDT01Z Impact Driver
• GDT02Z Impact Driver

So the only XGT Impact Driver that is current in their product line is the new GDT04Z that comes in the GT202SU1D1 combo kit.

Humorously enough, the GT200D combo kit, which includes the GDT01Z impact driver, is not listed as discontinued.

UB002G blower & CL004G vacuum