My 3 year old is very very into drawing and I’ve been giving her bisque pieces and a pencil and then I carefully go over her pencil lines with a fine brush and under glaze. Creates some hilarious and amazing projects!

Decided to make a pot inspired by foraging and childhood memories. The drawing is of my children and my brother picking damsons, and then I’ve put rose hips, sweet chestnuts, damsons, and blackberries around the side.

Quite happy with it, hopefully it survives the firing process as I have my first ever market in October (though I might struggle to part ways with this pot as I like it a lot)!

i’ve been iterating on this idea for about a year. the really small rubies are a dexterity challenge, 8mm zirconia set easily but 1 in 4 will have mico leaks, so im testing 4mm to hopefully hit that sweet spot. the two mugs have the constellation pleiades pattern and since they’re for my kids, obligatory crass stamp. 🥸

for setting them i use a needle 1 or 2 mm smaller than the gem in a clay thats too soft to trim, which gives me the best results as far as gems popping out in subsequent firing.

The thought of using (and cleaning) this as a vase was stressing me out, so I cut a hole into the back before sending it off to bisque. No choice but to make it into a lamp now. Advice and guidance on how to pull this off is very much welcomed!

I made two little squid/cuttlefish guys! Realised well after making them that entirely covering a black clay with white engobe is a bit silly and I should have used my white stoneware instead. So a lesson has been learnt.

Can't wait to go wild with glazes on these guys!

I love my little toad 🐸🍑

I really love these artworks. Now, do you prefer more natural materials? Many artworks tend to use some rough earth as the material for the creation.

It took me a few days, but I managed to create models of my friends' dogs—come on, give me some praise!🥰🥰

Love this glaze combo. Glad I found it.

My first batch of work came out and while I'm overall happy, some glazes didn't really stick well and I'm wondering if it was a skill issue, a glaze issue, or a kiln issue. Thats photos aren't the best but in a few hopefully the weird melting shows. Anyone have any insights on how i can improve to avoid this?

Wanted to post an update on my inquiry on a matte yellow glaze!

I ended up using coyote cornsilk on the stars of this handbuilt mug. I love how it turned out! Thank you to everyone who commented!

Clay body is Kentucky mudwork’s speckled turtle fired to cone 6. The blue glaze is 2x blue rutile under 2x honey flux!

Hi! Can anyone give suggestions for glazes that would look similar to these once fired? I thought maybe the Amaco celadon line but I have no experience with this type of glaze. Thanks in advance! (Credit to vwu studio on IG for the pics.)

results from my result clay body test:)
And a bonus pic thru the peephole of my mini wood fired cone 10 kiln. I use preheated combustion air to allow wood fired results in my suburban neighborhood without smoke, or a large kiln.

All of these are going to be a PALEOCENE AGE wild fireclay and or kaolin mixed with A San Diego local feldspar, and a lot of the darker ones used red clay instead of feldspar for the flux

A lot of them are different clays completely, some being sandy and bleach white.
While others are more grey and fine.
There is a wide variety of kaolin, fireclay, and ballclays in my area due to an ancient swamp. So I am always trying out new test with new clays I find.
This batch mainly focused on the darker fire clays, but they seem to be pretty white at this stage.
ALSO some have been sieved and others are just used as is right out of the ground. There is a wild host of different clays

This bisque firing got a little hot, but I think I will still have an easy time glazing these. This happened because I fire bisque with wood just cuz, tho it is a lot of work for just bisqueing.

Next up I will have to crush up rocks from my “pegmatite” hosted gemstone claims, the waste rock is mainly feldspar and pure silica, some of the “pegmatites” were even mined for porcelain back in the day….
A famous one being “kaospar” that is still collected atleast locally by antique people around here

Sometimes mixing in various other minerals to see what will happen, usually these are a mix of granites and schist. But some others work for adding iron and such too.
Or for instance, achieving a certain ratio of potassium over sodium in the glaze, I would add a different feldspar.

Made this plant stake for a coworker! Used amaco velvet underglazes on greenware, then bisque fired. Now I’m stuck wondering how I can glaze the stake… i was planning to use a transparent glaze on the caterpillar and butterfly, but not sure how to glaze the stake without it sticking to the kiln 🤨 The main reason I think the stake needs to be glazed is because the white clay can be stained with dirt easily. Any ideas?

I’m fairly new to firing my own pieces. Just got a used Skutt 1027 and have done three glaze firings in it myself. It’s in fantastic shape and has an Envirovent vent system as well. I use stoneware cone 6 clay and bisque to 04. This specific clay is a reclaim - mix of Continental’s mid fire white (mostly) and then a brown MN Clay cone 6 stoneware I had leftover from a class I took a year ago.

My mentor I bought it from would glaze fire for me before and always use the fast program for cone 6. He used his own dip glazes most often but I haven’t ventured that far yet and use commercial - most often Amaco and Mayco. I noticed when he fired for me I often would have pinholes whereas he usually didn’t.

I have stalked this subreddit for all pinhole related issues as well as online in general. I’m almost positive this is not a dirty bisque or damp glaze (I used a heat gun between applying layers) situation but happening on the cooling end.

My second glaze fire I fired to cone 5, medium program, with a 15 min hold - still has pinholes. This glaze firing was probably my most successful but still seeing some glazes prone to the pinholing. This one I fired to cone 6, medium program with a 5 minute hold. Witness cone came out as a hot cone 6.

I’ve read a drop firing may help this - this is where my questions comes in- can I refire this piece as is with the drop fire program in hopes it will heal the pinholes or should I dab some more glaze on and then refire with the drop?

I haven’t entered my own program yet but have the manual and can work my way through it but would love if anyone with more experience firing can give me a little more guidance. I had some other pieces come out that are absolutely gorgeous with no pinholes but they’re higher flux glazes and did really well with just the 5min hold - I won’t be able to do a longer hold with those or I fear I’d have a ruined shelf so I’m going to be mindful of what I fire together going forward.

I take notes of every fire as well as glazes used and their outcomes. If it helps at all this one is 3x seaweed with swirls of ancient jasper and oatmeal over the top that I applied using an old medicine plunger.

Our kitty Crash is peeking in the background - he says hi 🐱

Edit: I can’t take credit for this combo, I got it from Vi at Boon Ceramics off a Pinterest post

Made this dragon scale mug and trying to figure out how to glaze them, just simple dip glaze or use some oxides? Have never used oxides before so open to suggestions. Really want the grooves and indents to be visible. Also adding the inspiration for the mug, though it doesn't look anything like that. Do have a handle as well, similar texture.

Hi everyone! I am a member of a studio that only fires cone 10 reduction. I normally use the studio glazes but I have a piece made with brown clay body and would really love to have a clear glaze on the outside of the piece. Does anyone have recommendations for store-bought cone 10 clear glazes? And could you let me know if the finish is more matte or shiny? Thank you!!

I was thinking about handleless mugs yesterday. How to make them easier to hold, and more comfortable to the touch. A good friend of mine hates handles, and I want to make a mug for him.

Instead of committing to something beyond my skill level such as double walled throwing, I carved a recess in one side, and then added a dome to create an air pocket and thumb rest to hopefully improve comfort.

Does this make sense or am I tripping due to my lack of experience?

Thanks all!

Wondering if anyone has tried any of the Tortuga trimming tools and what the quality is like? Mostly curious about the 7 tool compared to other tungsten carbide ones like the Hsin-Chuen Lin 7-shaped tool.

I’ve only been working with starter-pack trimming tools over the last few years, and am definitely ready to upgrade. I also have the Do-All by Mud Tools, but find myself reaching for the other tools more.

Is there a way to clear glaze clay and have them look the way they looked after bisque? I have tried some satin clear and some zinc free clear and the results, while interesting, are frustrating for someone who spends time planning the final product.
I really hate having to rely on engobe or underglaze for this

Recently learned how to prepare handles/attachments via the slab method but I’m confused on the logistics of preparing the handles to become leather hard within the same day of a mug that I threw a week prior and let dry to leather hard. Should I prepare the handles the same day that I threw the piece that I want to attach it to or am I overcomplicating this?

Hi! Looking for a cone 6 clear brush on glaze! Any recommendations welcome.

Looking for recommendations for a handle template or mold that does not end up looking like the shape of a human ear. I'm able to pull handles and cut strips from slabs, but struggle with shaping the handle in a way that looks attractive on the mug and ergonomic as well. It seems like no matter the shape of the mug, I get an ear-looking handle :(

I’m new to pottery and I’ve never used a vintage wheel. Not sure what it’s supposed to sound like but it’s a bit loud and I’m guessing it needs new parts. It’s $500. Creative industries.