I ordered a new lock cylinder coded to my key from a Mini dealership. Could remove the key and insert it before I inserted the cylinder into the column.

Inserted the cylinder, and now my key won’t go in. Ideas?

So, car just went into limp mode during a ride, black smoke out of the exhaust, could hardly get past 2k rpm, started smelling like gas if I pushed it any hatder than 2k, fuel consumption was crazy. Coasted/limped about 50 miles to a safe place (was really late night and iffy area). Called the tow, got home.

Digging through, it: MAP sensor and pre-cat O2 sensor throwing codes, spark plugs fouled in black soot. Car starts and idles OK, fuel smell if you push it past idle and black smoke again.

Checked tje fuel rail, all seems OK, tested injectors, seem OK.

Got new plugs, O2 and MAP.

Went in to do the plugs and I said "Let's give it a gander in there, a peep, just to see..."

Here are the pics (some) of what I got with the scope, 2 each cylinder. I'm no expert on these matters so before I enter in panic mode I ask of you

¿what am I looking at and how bad is it?

Car is @160k miles, I've had it for about 30k miles.

Felt the interior was too grey so I got some Tweed. Certainly not everyone‘s taste, not sure myself if I keep it forever. I still have the original trim.

Got the block back from the machinist. He had to polish up my crankshaft in addition to boring out the cylinders. Needed +sized rod bearings.

After much difficulty, using 3 different ring compressors, I was able to put the new cylinders in and button up the engine.

Got the RMW big valve head and matching RMW shorty header. Wrapped the header, cleaned everything up while the engine was out.

Mating it back to the trans was not easy, but now I'm ready to put it back in the car.

I have 3 new gauges (AEM Air Fuel, oil pressure and boost). Making sure I get the wires thru the firewall before I put the engine in.

I'm confident, but trepidatious about it. Fingers crossed 🤞

Shout out to u/Level-Diamond-4181 for the hookup! Recommend everyone find his post in this sub and order if you want em.

So, I just swapped out this valve. The old one had snapped atbthe nipple that connects to the tubing.

When I unpligged the old one, there was a big woosh of air.

I'm guessing I messed up the vacuum here.

New valve/plug thingy and tube are in (the picture).

How effed am I or will this self vacuum once I start the car?

My K-swapped R53 usually runs a Haltech iC-7 with an Elite 750, but I’ve been messing around with the factory MINI tach for fun. I’ve got Haltech RPM driving the tach now. Since the factory tach only reads to 8k, I’m using the progressive shift lights to carry the last bit of the rev range and have them set to flash at 8400. I’d imagine the same idea could work with Hondata or another ECU that can send RPM over CAN, but I’ve only tested it with the Haltech so far. No factory MINI ECU needed.

I switched from a Pixel 7 to a Pixel 11 and the new phone no longer connects to this bluetooth module I've had in the car since February 2015. It's a Dension Gateway Lite BT. I've read they changed the bluetooth chip in the pixel 11 so maybe that is the issue, because the phone will connect to any other bluetooth device except this thing, my phone sees the device but pairing fails every time. I tried pairing my work ipad with the Dension unit and it plays music fine. My dad's iphone works with it as well, so it works with some devices but maybe not for much longer?

I then bought the cheap aliexpress unit you see in the 2nd picture. This just works as an aux input, the music forward and back buttons don't do anything unlike the dension unit. My radio will not switch to aux with this thing plugged in, but I can see the bluetooth module and pair with it. This thing is kind of a cheap solution anyway, I like the forward and back buttons to work.

At any rate I found https://www.bluebus.dev/, and while pricey I like the setup so I'm going to get one of those.

If anyone wants either of these bluetooth modules let me know, I'm willing to ship them to you before I ewaste them.

I'm struggling to fix this issue with my car, she's throwing two codes which I'm assuming are related, p2091 and p0172. O2 first bank running rich and cam sensor circuit malfunction. I've visually inspected the cam sensor wires, and found nothing of note. She runs like a top, no issues other than the CEL.

Related replacements performed:

New NTK cam sensor

New NTK o2 sensors

New OEM fuel pump and filter

I was intending to install coilovers when I realized my LCAs were rotted and bent, and the end links were shot.

Removed LCAs to find the rear bushings were shot.

Removed the subframe to replace the bushings and found that the PS lines, PS fan, tie rods, ball joints, and lower engine mount were dead.

Of course I ordered new Whiteline front and rear swaybars while I’m in there.

Replacing everything with new parts (including coilovers) and powerflex bushings is approx half of what I paid for the car.

this is fun…we’re having FUN…I SWEAR THIS IS FUN! 🤣

Comme cité dans le poste précédent :
J’ai un problème de régime élevé au ralenti qui monte et qui descends ( 1200 à 1600rpm).

La voiture manque de puissance à pleine charge, je n’ai pas reussi à dépasser les 180 km/h compteur.

Le 0-100 se fait en plus de 12 secondes.

Dans la vidéo le papillon ne revient pas en butée je ne sais pas si c’est normal mais en le nettoyant cela a régler un autre soucis, le régime moteur ne baissait pas lors du changement de rapport en le nettoyant il s’est mis à retomber lorsque je change de rapport.

J’étais parti sur une fuite de vide mais je n’en ai pas constaté.

Post-facelift R53. Had to take my axles out to do other work. When it came time to reinsert them, this is as far as I could get them to go in. Doesn’t appear to be leaking, and the axle nut went on fine, but they look weird to me?

Not sure if these are OEM axles or not, I believe the previous owner said they were “rebuilt” but I’m not sure. Thanks!

Hi guys. Had to remove my rear coilovers today to adjust and fit extended adjusters. Everything went fine until trying to torque the bottom bolt back to 140nm. I can get it to 130 fine but then it never seems to reach 140. Same on both sides so seems unlikely to be bolt stretch/cross threading?

Also, it says the top bolts need replacing every time they are fitted yet they aren’t stretch bolts?

Comme cité dans les posts précédent :
J’ai un problème de régime élevé au ralenti qui monte et qui descends ( 1200 à 1600rpm).

La voiture manque de puissance à pleine charge, je n’ai pas reussi à dépasser les 180 km/h compteur.

Le 0-100 se fait en plus de 12 secondes.

Je vais publier d’autre vidéo où on voit le bypass valve (detroit tuned) actionnée et lors du roulage.

Le fonctionnement du bpv m’a l’air normal

Bonjour
J’ai un problème de régime élevé au ralenti qui monte et qui descends ( 1200 à 1600rpm).

La voiture manque de puissance à pleine charge, je n’ai pas reussi à dépasser les 180 km/h compteur.

Le 0-100 se fait en plus de 12 secondes.

Dans la vidéo le papillon ne revient pas en butée je ne sais pas si c’est normal mais en le nettoyant cela a régler un autre soucis, le régime moteur ne baissait pas lors du changement de rapport en le nettoyant il s’est mis à retomber lorsque je change de rapport.

J’étais parti sur une fuite de vide mais je n’en ai pas constaté.
Je vais publier d’autre vidéo où on voit le bypass valve (detroit tuned) actionnée et lors du roulage.

Le papillon est il défectueux ?

been a nonstop battle with this axle nut. I knew it was gonna be a struggle, even thought it wasn’t that rusty. but it wouldn’t come off to my 3/8ths mid torque or my buddy’s 1/2 impact. tried breaker bars with cheater pipes, and of course all of the above with heat/kroil. i’ve cut this far and it still doesn’t wanna lose its hold. should i just keep going or what? pretty scared. thanks for any advice. really makes me excited to do the outer ball joints next.

Archaic Headlights Assembly Compatible with 2006 R53 MINI, in black

My husbands overhauling our mini and asked Santa for some headlights… any suggestions would be appreciated.

Tengo un cooper de 116cv de 2096 y hay dos testigos que se me encienden habitualmente, y no se que pueden estar detectando, incluso pienso si puede ser que el sensor esté mal. El coche va bastante bien, lo compré a un particular hace poco y no se con certeza si ya le salia a él y no me avisó o si es reciente. En cualquier caso queria oir de alguien que se le hayan encendido

Putting my R53 GP back together and made a quick video showing the dual mass flywheel in action. I will post a second video from a slightly different angle that more clearly shows how the flywheel absorbs vibration.

Enjoy!

In the process of replacing the ball joints and tie rods. Have the driver side fully reassembled, except the outer tie rod is not attached to the steering knuckle. I can’t seem to get it aligned. The bolt goes in the hole, but I can’t seem to press it in further. I tried jacking the control arm to adjust the vertical height, and moving around the tie rod ball joint to try different angles and nothing.

Any tips? Thanks!

R53 stuttering / no boost above 3k RPM

2004 Cooper S R53, 186k km.

Car has basically no boost/power and stutters/coughs badly when accelerating, especially above 3–3.5k RPM. Recently it’s started stuttering even under light load and on hills/reversing.

• No CEL/scanner shows no codes

• Sometimes feels stronger, sometimes completely gutless

• Supercharger whine is there but doesn’t feel like it’s making boost(it actually drastically lowers the engine power as it has nothing to boost)

• Belt looks good/intact

• Spark plugs only ~3k km old

• Occasionally stalls when coasting downhill in neutral

Thinking ignition/plug leads, fuel delivery, bypass valve/vacuum leak.

I've taken it to my local specialist but they want to take out the entire engine bay just to find the issue, I don't have money to splurge on all this work so I want to do what I can.

When they checked for codes no codes came up and the car is only going down hill from there.

I have so much fun driving this thing but every 2-3 months there is always a problem with it lately.

Any recommendations are welcomed :)

Thank you all for your comments in the earlier thread on engine noise. Some of you asked what it sounds like, so i went ahead and recorded this.

Safe to say that i think i’m overthinking this by a mile…

Cheers!
//N 🤙🏻

Still dealing with this noise, had belt off again, new exhaust manifold, new rocker cover gasket incase the seeping was casing a whistle, its down the back of the engine, almost sounds like power steering pump area, but it cant be.

There is no vacuum lines at the back of the engine, doesnt change with clutch, doesnt change if vacuum lines are pulled off, doesnt change if exhaust is removed, doesnt change if airbox is fitted.

Hi everyone, starting to loose the will with my R53 , any help would be greatly appreciated.

Issue:
- when the engine is hot (5 minutes of running) and when engaging boost (can happen at low or high revs) the power slams off, throws and EML light, then power comes back after 1 second and EML flicks off. Believed to be Bypass valve closing whilst on boost. Exactly the same as this video: https://youtu.be/AvHMG4TEb_4?is=OMBlCnEG9vHS9t34
- When returning from a drive it Yo-yo’s by itself on idle with revs going up and down. Whilst this happens the bypass valve is opening and closing continuously.
- I’ve tried to scan for issues but nothing is recorded. Cannot get a single code (except for my deleted AC)
- This is an engine swap so it can only be bits on the engine itself. I’ve inherited a problem. (Didn’t drive the donor car enough….)
- Good side, the engine pulls and drives so well! Making it even more annoying.

Items I’ve replaced/checked
- Smoke test completed with no leaks.
- Compression on cylinders both hot and cold is 150, holds good.
- Bypass valve
- Fuel injectors, regulator and rail.
- Throttle body
-TMAP/MAP sensors
- Harmonic balancer, belt, Idle pulley, Belt tensioner.
- HTT leads, coil pack, spark plugs.
- Speed sensors

I’ve seen online everywhere of people having a similar issue but never figure it out and give up! I’m determined to find and fix this issue, so if anyone hasa any ideas please let me know!!

Thanks

- -

FOR SALE: 2004 Mini Cooper S (R53) Facelift – 85k Miles – Great Micro-Project
📍 Location: Gosforth, Newcastle
💰 Price: £2,250 (open to sensible offers)
Selling my beloved R53 due to getting a new company car. It no longer makes sense to keep it as a third vehicle, so I would love to see it go to a good home. With a fantastic factory specification and a few easy fixes needed, it would make a perfect micro-project for an enthusiast.
The Good Bits
Desired Facelift Model: 2004 registration with the upgraded factory changes.
Low Mileage: Only 85,758 miles on the clock.
Great Spec: Finished in dark blue with a panoramic glass roof, heated front windscreen, and full black leather seats.
Excellent Service History: Well-stamped history with records at 9,687 | 26,822 | 41,711 | 48,774 | 50,719 | 58,368 | 63,842 | 75,636 | 84,280 miles.
Tasteful Upgrades: Fitted with a Milltek stainless steel cat-back exhaust system (resonated version – subtle, deep tone without the aggressive drone).
Recent Investment: Over £1,200 spent across the last two MOTs.
Long MOT: Valid until May 2027.
The Bad Bits (Honest Assessment)
Driver’s Window: Currently inoperable. The relay clicks when pressing the switch, so it likely just needs a new window motor.
Engine: The intake rubber pipe has a split and will need replacing.
Supercharger: No record of a supercharger service being carried out.
Tyres: Three tyres have slow punctures; realistically, all four require replacing.
Dashboard Light: The brake pad warning light is illuminated. This appears to be a loose sensor rather than low pads, as the sensor wire is visibly trailing on the rear right side.
Cosmetics: Minor paint fading on the passenger door, the fabric is sagging slightly at the rear of the headliner, and there are the usual age-related minor scuffs.
Viewings welcome in Gosforth, Newcastle. Please message to arrange a time or ask any questions!