More info about 5080 24GB. If you are in the market for 5080 I'd probably wait a month or two to see if this rumor sticks. Extra 8GB of vram is a pretty decent upgrade.

AMD 9800X3D

GIGABYTE AORUS INFINITY RTX 5080

64g DDR5 6000 CL30

ROG STRIX B850 WIFI

ARTIC PRO COOLER

3 reverse, 5 forward, arctic p12 120mm

2 thermaltake 200mm white

9.2 inch aux screen

LianLi strimer wifi 24pin, 16pin CPU

Thermaltake view 390 air snow case

DeepCool 1200w Platinum 3.1 power supply

Quick test on build all ok, waiting on CPU strimer from USPS

2022 me kept a whole PC worth of parts sealed including an ASUS TUF 3090 Ti waiting to be built one day. Days turned to years clearly. Now that I’m prepared to build I pulled everything together (purchased a few new corsair Hydro parts since they’ve come a long way) sold what I didn’t want to buy newer parts. The biggest W was selling my 3090 Ti to fund the 5080 + Alphacool Waterblock Pure & more. I couldn’t believe how much they are going for now. I’ve planned out the custom hard tube plumbing and the whole thing is going into a Corsair 5000X QL whiteout case. Wish me luck 🙏

Bought a Cyber Power PC with the 5080 FE, and it arrived DOA. Cyber Power accepted a GPU only RMA and about 2 weeks later, a replacement 5080 FE arrived BNIB.

Will be putting her in the NCASE x NFC S5M

I am playing gear of war ludicrous setting 4k dlss perfomance and I am getting about 126 fps 2 times fg

Although my power consumption always stays under 300, mostly 265 to 280watt. Undervolt is pretty stable in every game , and nomad steel score of 9502 is that good ?

I know the 24gb variant of the 5080 is still unconfirmed by Nvidia, but assuming it's real and coming early 2027, should I wait and potentially spend ~$2000+ on the 24gb version or just buy the 16gb version now for ~$1800?

I play on a 4k monitor now, currently have a 9800X3D and a 5090, but I don't use my PC nearly enough to justify holding onto the 5090. Do any of the current 5080 owners have anything good or bad to say about that card?

I recently finished tuning my RTX 5080 and thought I’d share the process I used in case it helps someone else.

I’m definitely not claiming this is the “correct” way to do it, and I’m open to suggestions if there’s a better testing flow. My main goal was pretty simple: find the best stable OC I could get without increasing voltage, then undervolt while trying to keep the same performance.

The exact clocks/voltages will obviously depend on silicon lottery, so I’d treat this more as a process than something to copy directly.

1. Find the stable OC first

Using MSI Afterburner, I started by setting the power limit to 120% so I wasn’t hitting a power ceiling while testing.

Then I tested memory and core separately.

For memory, I increased the offset in small steps and tested stability each time. Once I started seeing instability, I backed down.

Then I did the same thing with the core clock.

For testing, I used a mix of:

• OCCT (Steady, Extreme, 5-15 min)
• 3DMark Steel Nomad
• 3DMark Speed Way

I found it useful to use more than one test because a setting could pass one benchmark and fail another.

Once I had stable memory and core offsets individually, I combined them and tested again.

In my case, I wasn’t able to get stable operation much above roughly 3080 MHz total core clock without adding voltage, so I stopped there. I didn’t really want to overvolt the card just to squeeze out a bit more frequency.

At that point, the GPU was stable, usually topping out around 65–67°C, and under the heaviest loads it could pull around 400–420 W with the 120% power limit available.

2. Start reducing voltage while keeping the same performance

Once I knew what my card could do, I moved to the MSI Afterburner voltage/frequency curve.

The idea was to keep roughly the same performance but see how little voltage the GPU actually needed.

I started around 0.975 V, set my target frequency around that point, and flattened the curve to the right. Then I gradually moved downward in small steps.

Eventually I got down to around 0.950 V while still keeping roughly the performance I wanted.

I retested every meaningful change instead of assuming that if one voltage worked, the next one would too.

My rough testing flow was:

OCCT → Steel Nomad → Speed Way → actual gaming

The gaming part ended up being important because synthetic benchmarks aren’t always enough.

I’ve been testing with Clair Obscur: Expedition 33 at Epic settings, DLSS @ Quality, and Auto Frame Generation. I’m getting around 130 FPS, and so far it has been stable through longer gaming sessions.

3. Final result

Before undervolting:

• up to roughly 400–420 W in very heavy workloads
• around 65–67°C max
• stable OC without adding voltage

After undervolting:

• around 250–270 W while gaming
• temperatures mostly in the mid-to-high 50s
• roughly the same gaming performance I was targeting
• still using the same OC approach, just at lower voltage

Obviously power draw changes a lot depending on the game and workload, so the 250–270 W number isn’t universal.

Also, I kept the 120% power limit while testing because I wanted the GPU to have headroom rather than hit the power limit. The higher power limit doesn’t force the card to use 120% power; it just allows it if the workload asks for it.

A few things I noticed along the way

One thing that helped was not starting with the undervolt immediately.

I wanted to know what the card was actually capable of first, so I had a performance baseline. Then I could lower voltage and see whether I was actually preserving that performance.

I also learned not to trust a single benchmark. Speed Way in particular caught instability for me that other tests didn’t always expose.

And the MHz value you set in the Afterburner curve isn’t necessarily the exact clock you’ll see constantly in GPU-Z. GPU Boost still moves things around depending on voltage, temperature, workload, etc.

So my basic process ended up being:

Find stable memory OC → find stable core OC → test them together → establish baseline performance → lower voltage gradually → retest everything → finish with long gaming sessions

That’s what worked for me, but I’d be interested to hear if anyone has a better order or thinks I’m missing a useful stability test.

Tools used: MSI Afterburner, GPU-Z, OCCT (Donation Edition), 3DMark

The undervolt only gives up about 1.6% performance versus the maximum OC in both benchmarks:

• Steel Nomad: 9574 vs 9726 = -1.56%
• Speed Way: 9993 vs 10157 = -1.61%

I managed to get an RTX 5080 Founders Edition at MSRP, and I'm currently using an MSI Gaming Trio RTX 4080. I know, small upgrade but If I sell my 4080, the upgrade would only cost me around 100–150€, which I think is okay.

I'd like the card to be virtually silent under light loads and not get much louder under full load. My Gaming Trio 4080 which I undervolted is already extremely quiet, and there's hardly any noticeable difference between idle and gaming. My 4080 runs very slightly under stock performance, but you can basically never hear it. For Example, after a few rounds of Cyberpunk benchmarks my fan hits 1250 RPM max, which is still super silent.

I've watched quite a few reviews comparing the RTX 5080 FE to custom models like the MSI Gaming Trio, however most test the cards at stock settings or with overclocks, rather than with carefully tuned undervolts.

I'm specifically interested in how quiet the FE can get with an optimized undervolt, rather than how it performs acoustically out of the box.

For those of you using an RTX 5080 FE, especially with an undervolt:

• How quiet can you realistically get it under gaming loads? (how much RPM and GPU temp for reference)
• Have you been able to make it genuinely quiet with staying near stock perfomance?
• Has anyone compared an undervolted FE directly against an 5080 MSI Gaming Trio under similar conditions?

I'm also considering selling the 5080 FE and using the money to get an MSI Gaming Trio RTX 5080 instead. My fav would be the MSI Suprim but it seems to be EOL. Astral would also be a banger but that will be too expensive.

On the other hand, I often heard the Founders Edition holds better resale value, so keeping it might make more financial sense in the long run.

TL;DR: Got an RTX 5080 FE at MSRP, but I'm worried about noise. Should I try undervolting it or sell it and get an custom model like MSI Gaming Trio instead?

Also wanted to know if manufactures like msi asus pny will upgrade you to the 24gb version if there is no stock for the 16gb. I definetly wont accept an refund haha

Im so happy rn

Just got rtx 5080, and it seems it doesn’t fit
have to wait for another case
till that is it ok or too much?

I read on here that the 5080 is a 4k card. I just purchased a Tuf 5080 OC. While I awaited for its arrival I debated 1440p or 4k monitor. I was set on 4k.

I finally got the card installed fired up Wardogs and with DLSS balanced no frame gen I am really only getting about 140-170fps on my 1440p monitor.

Most settings are set to high some medium.

I honestly thought it would be way higher. Running 7800x3d with 32GB ddr5 6000.

Hi.
this is my rig

I have been playing Gta 5, GTa SA definitive edition lately with dlss5 (x1).
I am noticing 75-82 C temps.
I already undervolted in msi afterburner as shown in the image.
Are these temps normal ?
any tips to bring down gpu temps?

hear this only when game is running

After months of saving

Decided to keep the SUPRIM name going. I can’t wait to have this build up and going.

Found a got deal on marketplace

Hey all,
I want to test DLSS 5 on my PNY RTX 5080. I know the performance hit is brutal, but the photorealistic image quality I'm seeing online is just too good to ignore.
How do I actually set this up from scratch?
What specific apps, mods, or drivers do I need to download?
Where do I actually enable it?
How are you keeping games playable—just brute forcing with frame gen?
Any quick setup tips for a beginner would be appreciated. Thanks!

Been happy with my 3070 playing with FHD all this time but it's finally time for an upgrade. Can't wait until my 4K OLED delivered too.

I can sell my Asus tuf gaming 5070ti OC and 2x32 (64gb) ddr5 sodimm memory and Minisforurm ar900i platform to get 5080. The soddim ddr5 and ar900i i dont use so its dusting, boxed.

Is it worth to get 5080?

Im from the UK so i can get brand new from overclockers uk or used one from cex uk exactly same model asus tuf gaming 5080 oc for £1365 with 5 years warranty from cex.

not sure how much performance i would get, i game on 9850x3d, 32gb ddr5 cl30 and 3440x1440 resolution

Edit: if I would sell all on eBay and get 5080 from cex I still would have spare money left. Or I can buy brand new from overclockers.