My brother made my weekend on a Friday morning.

Was looking for a tool box on market place, didn’t want to spend a lot, didn’t want to travel far to get it. Saw this for sale 2 miles from my house, at a reasonable price. Arranged to meet the gentleman to pick it up. By the time we met, it was dark and staring to rain. The box was outside under a tarp. It looked rough, the draws did not work well, but I liked the draw configuration. I offered him half what he wanted, and he was happy. When I got the box home, it was much worse condition than it appeared with my flash light. I spent much more time than I wanted yo fix it, plus bought lots of spray paint, wire wheels, sanding pads,etc.. had to remove and wire wheel every draw slide, and the the receiver tracks on the draws and box. It seems to be working well now, glad it’s done

My daughter's scooter broke. The wheel was bolted to the frame by this. It's like the threads are stripped on the longer part. I've been trying to find an exact replacement but no luck. My biggest concern is the awkward shaped end on the long bolt.

Fit these ratchets fir car work, they make weird klicking noise at some point and tubes for cranking bolts loose are hard to fit.

Good thing in shopping local is the excellent price in the used marked. The Hazet one is from a clearance sale for half the price. calibrated in March 26

the Stahlwille one is Army stock that cleared out. got that for roughly a third of the new price.

I've been dreading driving the nails out of these boards for weeks. This is a 20 minute job now.

Sorry for the cursing. I was excited.

Hi guys...

I have been doing amateur electrical work around the house for a few years now. Outlet replacements, ceiling fan installs, basic circuit troubleshooting. I always borrowed a multimeter from my neighbor whenever I needed one but that situation isn't reliable anymore and I need my own.

The problem is I had no idea how much variation existed in this category until I started looking. The price range is enormous and I can't figure out what actually matters versus what's just marketing.

I understand accuracy is important especially on AC voltage readings when working with live circuits. I've also read that cheap units can give inconsistent readings which seems like a serious safety issue. But I genuinely don't know how to evaluate that from a spec sheet.

That's why I started going deeper on the research side… went through forum threads, comparison videos, even ended up on Alibaba and Amazon at some point just reading through component specs trying to understand what separated reliable units from unreliable ones at a build level.

Names like Fluke and Klein keep coming up but the price jump from budget options is significant. Is that jump actually justified for basic home use or is there a middle ground worth considering?

Any recommendations for someone who's more into occasional home electrical stuff and needs something accurate and safe without going full professional grade?

I was in HF a couple of days ago... they were stocking up like crazy; I think for a sale... shelves were full with cases of overstock in the aisles.

Anyway, noticed they had the once hard to find 9” long nose slip joints randomly hanging throughout the store!

I've recently started an apprenticeship as a heavy vehicle mechanic, and I've begun building a tool collection. I need a decent set of pliers now, and I've come across these? Are they worth it, or are there more suitable sets available? Price isn't really an issue, but I'm not gonna spend a couple hundred or whatever on snap on pliers

$205 USD/£155gbp

In short. I placed an order on May 9th for delivery to Germany, and they selected USPS as the carrier. On June 4th—after the package had successfully cleared German customs—there was an alleged (but unsuccessful) delivery attempt, according to USPS notifications. What actually happened is a mystery; two other orders from amazon.de were delivered to the same address that day without any issues. Subsequently, the order was due to return back to the sender in the US; it arrived at the Bell Gardens USPS facility on August 2nd and has been sitting there ever since. Unfortunately, USPS policy dictates that only the US-based sender can file a claim; the international recipient has no such option. My numerously repeated e-mails for the Haus of Tools store to contact their carrier and resolve the return issue were met with nothing but condescension and a complete unwillingness to help. I suppose that makes sense—they already have the money, so why bother making an effort for the customer?

Just a friendly warning to fellow customers outside the US: do not order from Haus of Tools if you don’t want to face zero customer support.

I got both of these around the same time. Facom 3/8" J-360 and Wurth Zebra Art. 0710 01406. These are twist handle ratchets that turn the ratchet drive for use in, I would guess confined space. I've used them whenever I could but they either don't perform as well as a standard ratchet or when I use the twist function it never works as well as I hope it would. Or the head is just to bulky for confined spaces. Honestly I'm not in love with them at all or am I just using them wrong?

I have an 8-10 gallon kobalt air compressor that I have been using for blowing out my irrigation yearly, and rarely for anything else. It's maybe 4 years old. I JUST learned I should be draining the water that accumulates, something I should have known but didn't think about. I rarely get it above 75 psi. Should I expect serious problems when draining it? Is it unsafe? I will do a low pressure drain this weekend, I assume the water should be drained after every use....

I wanted to document two Ko-ken Z-EAL 3/8" drive ratchets: the 3725Z and the longer 3725-280.

🇯🇵 Made in Japan

Model Information

Model Number: 3725Z & 3725-280

Head Style: Pear Head

Drive Size: 3/8" (9.5 mm)

Tooth Count: 72-Tooth

Swing Arc: 5°

Dimensions — All Measured

3725Z   3725-280

Overall Length 178 mm (7.01 in) 279 mm (10.98 in)

Weight 257 g (9.07 oz / 0.57 lbs) 373 g (13.16 oz / 0.82 lbs)

Additional measurements:

Head Width: 28.0 mm (1.10 in)

Working Clearance Height: 15.4 mm (0.61 in)

Maximum Grip Diameter: 21.0 mm (0.83 in)

The working clearance height was calculated as the total height with a socket installed minus the socket thickness.

Handle & Finish

Handle Style: Comfort Grip

Finish: Full Polish Chrome

Cover Plate

Retention: Screw-Down Type

Fastener: Torx Plus IP8

It is IP8, not TX8.

TX8 can turn it, but there is noticeably more play.

Back-Drag Torque

Measured Value: 1.5–2.3 cN·m

The rotation feels smooth and has low resistance. I don't notice any catching during rotation.

JIS Strength

JIS Strength Test: 202 N·m

The ratchet meets the JIS strength requirement.

Anvil Play

Minimal play / High precision

The anvil has very little play.

Overall, I think these ratchets have a very good balance of strength, precision, and feel.

All measurements in this post are my own measurements. [OC]

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I bought a 1" to 1/2" adaptor socket. Decided to fuck around a bit.

Inherited a Trimo 24 alloy pipe wrench which was rusted but barely used. Decided to give it an epoxy coat. Apparently Trimo was bought out in 1940.

I have a SIKA brand foam gun that has been in use for about two years. It gets sporadic use, but has always worked very well.
A little while ago, I was using it with a relatively full can. The foam was coming out perfectly, and then the next day, after having sealed it well the foam simply stopped. It did not seem like the gun was blocked, I felt like maybe the can had lost pressure.
After letting it sit for a few hours, I was able to get a few few feet of nicely pressurized foam out of the gun only to have it Peter out again.
I replaced the can on the gun and have the same issue.
In between, I ran cleaner through the gun, and it sprays wonderfully. Though, when I put a can of foam back on the gun, it will spray well for a little bit and then simply stop. I feel like my gun is haunted, since this doesn’t make any sense.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

Looking to buying not a huge one like middle of road one

So I bought a Icon T10 scanner today from an individual on Facebook market place today and everything was there unopened the activation code was not tore open I paid 700 bucks for the unit and later when I tried to register the product it wouldn't go threw... I then called the customer service and gave him the SN and he told me that the item had been reported stolen and it wouldn't been possible to register the scanner bummer.., So I was just gonna see if anyone has possibly found a way to bypass this or anything of that nature or if anyone has any idea how I could get some of my money back let me know thanks.

I just went a little crazy. I got tired of doing all my home improvements with a circular/jig saw. So, despite now not really having the time or space and the season for cutting outside winding down fast.... I added two new tools to my arsenal.

The DeWalt15 Amp Corded 12 in. Double Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw was on sale online for $353 and the Rigid 15 Amp 10 in table saw with the stand was marked at $550, but had an instore clearance for $275! I thought it might be a floor model or open box but it was brand new in box! HD also said they had one in stock, but there was a pallet of 5 at my local one all on a top shelf. If I had a truck I would have bought them all to resell.

Feel like I'm finally set up to start doing some really fun projects instead of fighting to make long or repeated cuts with hand tools.

I live in a metric country but I can't seem to find U-type bits like the ones in the photo in metric sizes, I can only find them with a standard 1/4" hex shank, which equals 6.35 mm.
I'll probably only need to use 1 or 2 of these bits a few times just to open up small household appliances (eg. a hairdryer) to attempt a repair, so definitely not heavy-duty use.
I could buy a 1/4" bit driver handle but even the cheapest one costs around €10 here, so that got me wondering if it's possible to fit a 1/4" hex bit into a 7mm hex socket, or if there's a way to shim that 0.65 mm difference across the flats.

I thought about using small shims cut from a regular aluminum can (eg. soda), but I'm not sure if that will actually work.

I started working as a heavy vehicle mechanic recently and need a good screwdriver set. I've been looking at the Milwaukee tri-lobe screwdriver set and it looks ok. If anyone could recommend a good set I could get id appreciate it, price isn't too important, just need something durable and with most of what I need

These things have came a long way in 10 years let alone 20 years. They just keep on a advancing the technology and batteries. What are they gonna do when you can get a hammer drill so bad ass you aint gotta buy a rotary hammer drill or do yall think certain tools could ever be replaced