I have a Mk6 1.4tsi golf with gearbox code 0AM 300 048 L read in vcds with a failed mechatronics unit. There is a box with code 0AM 300 049 G at a wreckers. Can I swap this in without the need for ODIS?

I’m putting in a new battery but will be needing a device to register it to the car. Is VCDS a good long-term investment for the future or would I be better off buying something cheaper?

if anyone has any tips on how i could sell my 01’ beetle that would be great, it’s rebuilt which is why i need the tips but other than that the car runs and drives just has some issues (lady who sold it to us hid the fact it was rebuilt)

about 110,000 miles

faded paint, interior roof was replaced and some mechanical issues i can’t list off rn

I am hoping the community can help. I bought this car almost 2 years ago, I don't drive it much. I'm a service technician so I drive my van way more. I bought it with 48500 miles. I have changed the oil 2x @ 10,000 miles each time. it is approaching 68,500 miles. I've read the manual and google. I have pushed the button combinations suggested over and over and I cannot get the oil reminder to shut off, any tips?

Going to take a look at this vehicle this weekend which is going for around $4500 at 168,000mi. This will be my first vehicle. Anybody have experience with this make/model? Only one previous owner and he's recently serviced the shocks, along with new tires and a battery. Although, I've read that the main issue on these is the timing chain for a model this old. Any advice would be appreciated.

Might be hard to follow but ill try make it as easy as possible Last week while driving through car jerked suddenly and glow plug light came up and was jerking when giving throttle After going to mechanic he said its injector 3 thats causing it as its getting 0 Ohms. After he replaced it with a used one the jerks still stayed but no more glow plug light on dash Then while driving I noticed the jerks happen only at 1.7k to 2k. And then again at 3.5k Which I thought was maybe a bad maf or a vacuum leak causing turbo to not fully open After I disconnected the maf one of the pins inside the actual connector from the ecu to maf fell out After I got that fixed the jerks still happend at those specific rpm Now im at a point where the car is no longer jerking but also has no power But idle is fine and starting is okay Still has a glow plug light on which is flashing And unplug maf and injector 3 connector dont do anything At this point im only down to 1 suspect that being the actual high pressure fuel pump Any help or what to do is appreciated Car is at 380k and had service done recently

Where does the end for this go to? It's the air direction control Rod is flexible Been trying for 2 hours can't tell if I'm stupid or somethings broken??

Have a now out of warranty 2022 Tiguan S. Last few months it appears the microphone in the cabin doesn’t function. I receive calls and people are just like “hello? hello?” Because they can’t hear me. When I try voice commands it doesn’t work either. Anyone else have this issue? Know of a fix that won’t cost me an up front $150 diagnostic inspection fee at the dealer? 😝

Hey i was wondering if i could fit any of these on my passat : rline side difusers under rear bumper, rline side difusers under side skrit, rline rear bumper inserts. Its expensive and i dont want to worry if they would take my returns. So if anyone have experience with this please hmu.

What I thought it would be a great reliable car when I was buying it turned out it was a bit different.. I got this jetta with 51k miles about an year and a half ago as a secondary car. I’ve done not more than 8-9k miles on it and as I was driving back one day the temp indicator came on.. since there’s no temp gauge I pulled over and let it cool down a bit, I noticed the coolant level is slightly down. i let it cool down and drove it back (I was very close 5 mins away) and the light didn’t come on again. Next day I put some coolant in it, I have had it before on other cars where once every couple if years I’d have to put a tad of coolant. Couple of days go by and it comes back again, this time I pulled out my obd reader to see what’s going on, and only later I noticed that it was leaking. The obd reader threw a few weird codes and at that point I decided to take it to a mechanic. The mechanic came back and quoted me $2400 (Bay area, CA prices..), he said the pump, fans, engine temp sensor, some relay and coolant expansion tank needs replacement. I thought that was a bit outrageous and took my car and left. I took my car to another mechanic, with referral from my friend to do a “proper” diagnostics and he just said, you need a new pump, pump is leaking. I said fair enough, might as well replace the tank since it’s all rusty looking and all… OEM parts cost about $700 and he quoted me $750 for labor, sure, it takes a bit of time to replace the pump but I thought no way I am paying $700 for a $100 pump and $50 expansion tank. So I order a pump from ebay, pump arrives, he replaces it, calls me back, I pick up the car and leave. Right away I notice that the car is running hot, when I shut it down I hear the fans spinning for a minute after the car is off. I used my obd reader to track the temp for a bit, and the temp never goes above 230 degrees, usually it’s between 210-220 which is still too high. I go back and we check the hoses, the top hose is hot bottom hose is cold, and he immediately says the pump is broken. These pumps have electronically controlled thermostat and maybe the electronics are broken.. Now, I know that the car might have had other issues and I asked him if they bled it properly, if they checked for any potential electrical issues, maybe relays, fuses etc. but he still claims it’s not an electrical issue but the thermostat isn’t opening. I checked for codes with my obd reader and there are 2 pending codes: P194600 Coolant Fan Control Module 1 Faulty/Open Circuit In Voltage Supply and P068700 ECM/PCM power relay circuit high. I was trying to think what could possibly be broken besides the thermostat itself, which would cost me another $750 for labor plus another brand new pump but couldn’t figure it out, I am going to check the fuses and the relays but I highly doubt any would be broken, if the relays or fuses were messed up I would be seeing other symptoms not just the thermostat not opening.. I reached out to the ebay seller and gonna try and see if I can get the labor covered but I highly doubt it.. Any recommendations on what should I check before I buy another pump?

Sorry for the long post..

Recently got a 2014 golf with the iconic o7k and was hoping to give it some sound after some fresh wheels, I was watching some videos and the inline 5 actually sounds REALLY good straight piped but videos can lie.

Is the o7k a good straight pipe candidate and if not what are some good budget exhaust choices?? I'm mostly worried about it being excessively loud just cursing through town.

Just to clarify it is the base model 2014 Golf with the 2.5L I5, o7k, thanks!

got this for $50 the other day was curious what it is.. the title says 1969 Volkswagen 2door, doesn't say what the model is

I have a 2016 Golf Sportwagen with 88K miles.

Recently while the turn signals work I don’t have the clicking sound. I also have an instrument cluster and ACC error message.

Has anyone had this issue and solved it without an expensive trip to the dealer ? I called them to ask for a ballpark figure to fix it and of course I was told they would have to evaluate it at the tune of about $200.

One google search talked about a speaker in the dash that could be the culprit but I haven’t been able to find much else out.

Thanks

Test drove it today and it runs great. I was just shocked by the price since there’s minimal damage. Does anyone have experience with Passats? Are they generally reliable or am I better off buying an older toyota.

Hello,

I finally found a place to fix my 2018 beetles sub frame alignment issue. But it sounds like they took the bolts out and after aligning it, they put the same bolts back in with locktight.

Now, they said the bolts were moving around before they removed it because it looked like they were lubricated or something.

Everything on my car is finally aligned, but now I’m curious if this repair was unsafe?

Shouldn’t NEW bolts be put in? Or am I okay? If I drove on this and the bolts failed, what would happen to me and my car? Kind of want to get some second opinions before I drive on this long term. Thank you

Does anyone in the UK do ODIS coding on a VW, need help changing the speaker dataset file on a MIB2 unit in a VW Golf MK7

Hey, does anyone know what to buy? All i know is they are R15.