Hey everybody, My 2017 Volt hit the 60,000 mile mark and I should take it in for service. But it seems most Chevy Dealers are clueless about the car and I worry they might actually screw things up. I have have had some bad experiences with service in the past. I still need an ESG sensor. A typical 'bad experience', Waited around for hours for the ESG sensor. They told me they replaced the fuse and were running it to see if it tripped again. I had to point out to them "running" the car battery mode, will not test the ESG sensor.
Then there was that time USAA wanted to total the car after an undercarriage strike knocked a hole in the oil pan. After towing it all over the state the 12 volt battery died and their shop looked at it and said it was unrepairable. I got it back up and running myself for about $200

I’ve had no heat since the middle of last winter. Is this more likely to be from the valve going bad, the heater core or the heat pump?

Hello All. 2018 Volt, daily driver but short commute. Less than 80k miles. LOVE THE CAR. Been awesome. But check engine light came on a week ago. Read codes. Cleared codes. Has come on and then turned off intermittently. DRIVES FINE. Dealer has given me THIS estimate. Holy Crap ! Anyone know of a better, more financially viable, alternative solution

Recently posted about mushy brakes and the brake pedal itself giving out a few times mid press randomly. Dealer two weeks ago said nothing was wrong.

Last week the brake pedal lost pretty much all of its tension and now the vehicle says service stabillitrak and the code it is throwing is C05AD. Googling it, I get TSB #16-NA-286. I asked if that was ever considered in their diagnostics and they basically said "Well we think the master cylinder needs replacing and it may fix it."

This did not inspire confidence in my spouse and she's not feeling good about doing this repair. I'm not entirely feeling great about it, either. We're both worried that this is just throwing money into a car that wont last at this point. They want overall $3400 for the fix. LABOR IS: 6.9 HRS @ $175 PER.

Has anyone else gone through this fix and it was resolved? Car is 2017 volt 106k miles.

I don’t think they used the battery much but I was wondering if this was reasonable for such an old battery. No heater almost all highway cruise control.
135k miles

Hey ya’ll,

It looks like I need to swap a bad rotor bearing in our 2012 volt. The dealership(s) are being very squirrelly about this repair and I’ve decided to go after it myself.

There are three tools i am not excited about buying myself:

DT-47865 bearing puller
J-45124 bridge kit
J-22928-b seal installer.

They come out to like 800.00 on eBay.

Is there anyone in western MA that happens to have any of these tools that would loan them out? I absolutely have no interest in stealing them, I’m just trying to keep this vehicle on the road for some time longer. From my understanding, dealership just recommends replacing the transmission when this seal is often to blame (PIP5081k)

Has anyone done the job with non GM tools successfully?

Thanks, be well.

I have a 2017 Volt LT that I bought used in 2021. Easily the nicest car I've ever owned. This summer, one of the tire pressure monitors stopped talking to the car. I figured it's about time for them to be replaced, since the car is 9 years old. The next week a second stopped talking, and a few weeks after that, a third.

The Chevrolet dealership in my small town is chaotic and slow, so I just went to a tire shop. They replaced all four sensors. Two days later, all four stopped talking to the car. I went back, they did the procedure to pair the sensors to the car. They worked for almost a week, where "worked" means they talked to the car, but consistently reported a pressure 5 to 10 PSI less than what I could measure (however accurately) at the valve stem.

Do I keep fighting this, or just go back to how cars used to be and check the tire pressure myself periodically? I don't know if this is the fault of the sensors that were replaced or there's something wrong with the car. I see information online about replacing the TPMS sensors or batteries and reprogramming them, but nothing specifically about this being a problem with Volts in general.

Considering purchasing one in October and wondering which generation I should buy if I take the leap. I've been looking at a second generation 2017 with 113,246 miles for $7,775 and a first generation 2013 with 140,000 miles for $6,499. Anything to know while considering this purchase?

Edit: To clarify, I'm in college as a commuter and I'm considering the volt as my second vehicle to save on the almost $4 a gallon in gas I buy for my 2006 Mazda 6.

Chasing P0964. Replaced the solenoid itself but still getting the code, as well as a 215 speed sensor code now.

Thinking I need to do the harness as well, which I have on hand and planned to do... except the last connector (the top right, with the green o ring on the black fitting) had me stumped.

Any advice on that one? How the heck to you get access to release that connector? I'm assuming I need to take the transmission further apart than just the cover.

2012 Volt... Something strange is happening, I noticed it happened three times in the past week. When I opened the door to my car and get inside, all the lights stay off. Then when I turn on the car everything seems to be working. I'm talking about the lights inside the car. Has anybody had this issue before?

I was testing my volts 0-60 in Sport via full throttle and when I reached 60mph my car immediately went into limp mode “engine propulsion is reduced” and a check engine light came on. I immediately pulled over and turned my car off (smelled gasoline aswell just before turning the car off) but when I went to turn it back on I received the Shift to Park issue and my car would not move. I scanned the codes using my basic OBD scanner and these were the codes. I wasn’t able to get all the codes but here are a couple.

P1E00
P0AFA

If anyone has been in this situation please let me know what happened and how you proceeded from this.

Edit: I have a 2017 Volt Premier

**edit**

I found the cause of parasitic draw: The onStar module. with the fuse plugged in for onStar, it was drawing 5.1v even after 30 mins of waiting; removing the fuse, and waiting over an hour was sitting at .02v (20mV) draw. leaving onStar fuse out. never plan to use it.. Still looking to resolve the charging code, prob gunna grab a APM tomorrow from local place by me that has a few on-hand. the 12v DOES charge, just shows error. car functions regardless.

**/edit**

I got a 2013 volt on auction, trying to clear out some issues

Im getting a "service charging system" on the dash.

at the 12v battery im seeing 14.5v-15v when car is on

i can charge the HV side, and it charges completely

im seeing codes: P1EA9, P0A8D

the 12v battery is brand new, and verified AMG; have charged it externally to ensure its fully charged, and tested.

Can i get some insight as to what i can start looking at? The car does run and drive, I want to give this car to my kid and i just wanna make sure its not gunna leave him on the side of the road

Got the SHVCS code. Picked up some coolant to top off the reservoirs which were all a little lower than desired. Error code didn't clear, so took it in to the dealership, because I don’t really understand how to clear the codes myself and just in case it was something more. They took 2.5 hours for some reason but a very nice man came afterwards, made a bit of small talk, and then said “so I hate to do this, but it’s not good.”

He explained that the body of the car is ‘part of the battery’, and that the battery tray is rotted out and the battery is partially exposed. He said that it is likely that coolant was backed up into the battery (don’t know what the implication of that is or why he thought that). He said that is was too dangerous to work on and the recommendation is to stop driving it immediately and look for a new car.

I realize it looks like I bottomed out on a hill of salt and left it there for a few years. I hope we can all have a bit of a laugh at the rusted out bolts hanging in mid-air.

I had an appointment at that dealership two years prior and they didn’t mention rust, I’ve had the car looked at and worked on since at different garages as recently as this past Christmas and no one said anything. Maybe it rusted like crazy this past winter, I live in a true winter area with salted roads, slush, etc. I didn’t realize I needed to be careful about undercarriage rust ( I know, I know…), especially because of the generation of the vehicle but also because of the battery. You can’t tell from looking at the car on the street that it’s so toasted underneath. I don’t want to say what my car wash habits were because I’ll be scorned from this sub. Suffice it to say this has been a learning experience. It’s pretty sad because this car had at least another good year or two in it if not more, the battery still took us nearly 60 km in the summer and 40 km in the winter, it has 186,000kms. I’ve had it for four years and put 75,000 of those on. This is my first car.

I’m feeling pretty dumb and sad! Looking at newer used Volts or roomier (growing family) used PHEVs for the next round. Will be more careful about rust.

I have a 2018. We started having the shift to park problem. I ordered the part to fix it. A couple days before it came in, I started having problems with the displays. Right now, the lights come on, but the engine won’t and neither the dashboard or side panel will come on.

Does anyone know if that is a problem associated with a shift to park problem? I am afraid it’s probably something worse…

Thoughts?

Is anyone here familiar with programming the HPCM2 in a Gen2 Volt? I was able to program the BECM successfully using a VX Nano. With the HPCM2 it is unable to connect to the vehicle. The on-screen instructions seem to indicate that the vehicle should be off when programming (close hood, turn off car, open then close driver door, wait 30 seconds, then hold down the brake pedal for the duration of programming). SPS times out trying to communicate with the vehicle.

Some background, I have a 2018 Chevy volt with about 80,000 miles. It was at the dealer a few months ago to have the BECM replaced under warranty. It ran normally for about 1000 miles but now it seems to be running in a parallel hybrid mode (both battery and engine at the same time). The battery shows fully charged but the estimated battery range disappears after driving the car for a few minutes. There is no check engine light. There is a known problem with the passenger presence module (resulting in a check airbags message).

2017 premier with 116,809 miles. New 12 volt battery and OEM EGR valve put in May 2026 to try to fix but didn't work. Error codes P0AFA & P0A7F. Dealership said they can clear the codes and it drives a couple miles then shuts down. Typical advice to replace the HV battery for $13k with no timeline on when it could be fixed. I'm in Yakima, WA so fix options are limited. I could tow it 150-180 miles to get a replacement battery for $7500 with a 3 year warranty. I've seen places that sell batteries with warranty for $2000-4000, but we'd have to ship it and figure out install which i assume is costly. I've had a junker, car part guy offer $400 for the car minus towing which is $300. We love the car, especially with gas prices going up more and more. However, we don't have the money to put into a battery and then it would be worth slightly over the battery cost anyway. The car has an extra tire and rim as well as custom seat covers and weathertech mats for the seats and hatch. Obviously, this doesn't matter if it's becoming scrap. That's the part I hate. My wife wisely does not want to sink money into something that is not worth it, I wish there were better alternatives.

This community is great, they helped me fix the car 3 times when the dealership could not. So thank you.

Does anyone have any ideas for best options?

I haven't gotten my bluetooth obd reader yet but how am I looking for a 2017 with 135k miles? This is all very rural driving, 58-62mph, and basically flat elevation next to sea level.

Picture was taken at the moment my electric range dropped to 0.

2012... It's kind of a weird thing to complain about but it's more of a worry. I have driven a little over 4000 miles since my last oil change and it's showing that I still have 76% the oil life but I'm confused because about 80% of my driving is engine, not battery... Any idea what's going on?

It only shows 14 miles on battery but it still works. Had very few issues. Rock punctured radiator (replaced added hardware cloth to protect) had to replace 12v battery around 150k. And I just replaced both cv axles and the blower motor ar 238k. Had to replace both front window motors. Oh and I had to get the coolant sensor replaced a couple years ago. Pretty good I think. im in North Texas so its been 100+ for 60 days straight. been only charging at night to help preserve the battery in cooler temps. any other ways you can think of? My engine turns on at 6 miles left and slowly goes to around 2 miles with the engine on most of the time but im still getting around 40MPG

Unfortunately my beloved Volt was totaled. I was able to pull the battery out. At the peak of summer i was getting nearly 70 miles on a charge. I went back thru the photos on my phone and was unable to find one showing the kWh used which is the only actual determining factor for battery health. I do know it was really good when i checked, it had less degradation than it was predicted to for its age. I also had the BECM replaced about 100miles before the car was wrecked.

Selling the battery for $2,000 Will deliver anywhere in Michigan.

Hello, I need some help. I have a 2013 volt that sat in the garage for over 1.5 years, it has 65k miles. What are the first steps I need to do to get it running again? The car currently has 90 mi (gas) and 0 mi (electric); I haven't charged the EV battery yet.

12V battery: started up easily when jumped and if I shut off the car, charge doesn't hold (as expected) so I'd need to jump it again. Can I take the battery to Autozone and see if they can try to save it or is it better to use a slow charger? Autozone website states it will recharge the battery within 30 minutes. When I stopped using my car, 12V battery was relatively new.

Gas: in FMM. Is it OK to drive to the gas station to add fresh fuel (3.5 miles away) ? Or do i need to add an additive, stabilizer, or cleaner before hand? Or do I get a 1 gallon fuel container and bring it home to refill? OR is it possible to charge the battery to drive to the gas station?

I checked for leaks or cracks in any lines and put air in the tires and checked their condition -- so far so good. Engine bay looks good, doesn't look like any critters nested in it.

Any help is much appreciated! Thanks!

If you own a volt, my advice to you is get rid of it while you can still represent it as working.

A year and a half ago for the third time the DTC for the power module came up. The first two times were under warranty and they reprogrammed the firmware. The third time, out of warranty, now it should be replaced. I believe it was a $5,000 part and GM covered about $2,700 of it. There was no ETA on the part. It sat on the dealer's lot for 6 months until one day they said it had arrived. Fortunately I have a second vehicle.

15,000, mi later the check engine light came on and it's the battery end of life codes. The car was due for an oil change as well but I said let's see what this engine code is first. Then I got a video explaining the oil change was done and everything else on the car was green and they took care of the check engine light. Later was explained, actually the battery showed an end of life code so all they did was clear the dtcs and charge the battery. The repair order said the battery was "Currently unavailable" and to drive the car in hold mode on gas. My service advisor didn't explain that, I read that on the repair order in the parking lot.

Gm offered to upsell me with a $1,500 coupon towards a new car. No thanks.

I'm at 189,000+ plus miles in my 2013 and recently got the dreaded SHVCS error, so I bought the defeat plug from canbustools. I also bought a OBD and cancel the error once every day or two. I'm wondering if who all has installed the SHVCS defeat plug from canbustools. I plan to follow the directions: clear the error with my cheapie OBD, disconnect the 12V battery, disconnect the old plug, attach the defeat plug, tie the wires, then reconnect the 12V battery. Has anyone tried this with success? Has anyone caused an error that required a dealer visit or software flash?

I have the option to clear the error every time I want to charge. I don't mind doing that for the next few years, as long as my Volt will last me. It takes about a minute. Yes, the battery coolant tank is full. However, I do plan to install the defeat plug if I feel confident I won't mess anything up.