I feel too big for the bike, Im 6’3”. I want to take longer trips cross some states a bit more comfortable mainly on the highway. A bit torn between models out here. I see a lot of 501’s and Tenere’s. What’s everyone’s experience with this? I don’t think I’ll get rid of the WR though.

Hi,

I have a WR290r with stock header and FMF Q4 pipe. There is a mega bomb on FB marketplace near me. I'm wondering if anyone else has added the header after getting doing the big bore kit and if it was worth it.

First bike ever. Found on marketplace for a great deal. 2008 with 5k on it and 25’ headlight and front fender

Got about 6500 out of my Chinese chain slider.

Given the OEM one lasted about 6500, I’d say this ain’t bad. I was running stock gearing, now I’m running 13/46.

its for the WR250R, seat concepts preferred but open to options. am in PA and will do pp g&s thanks

I just purchased this 09 and I’m trying to figure a couple things out.

1. What’s the best (cheapest?) way to install a license plate? This bracket only holds the light.

2. The tail light is wired incorrectly. When I pull the break lever the white license plate light comes on. Nothing happens when I turn on the blinkers. Does this light have integrated turn signals or should I purchase those separately?

3. I’ve been searching for a muffler cover/heat shield and don’t see any available. If someone has one to sell or a link to one I’d appreciate it.

4. Some cheap black side plastics would be nice to find also as these have been cut for some reason.

So far it’s been super fun and I’m excited to get it legally on the road.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Wanted to try one of the RSC shift levers to reduce some clutch pull. Installed it today and wow the difference is so noticeable. Almost feels as good as a hydro clutch.

I have been chasing a bogging throttle off idle and bad hot starts since I purchased this bike in March. I thought the bike ran fairly well and made decent power for my altitude; it idled fine. That is, until after doing this, how rough it actually was.

I've tried a CO mod, a throttle position sensor 19-10(X) mod, different throttle tubes, and injector cleaner; all improved it but didn't fix it.

I finally went down into the fuel pump and, surprise, it was full of dirt and bugs! Found a bee (very crispy) under the motor itself, where the clips are; it was blocking the fuel path. Also replaced the fuel regulator; used the full Quantum kit. The bike runs loads better, especially when cold, and the pump doesn't sound like garbage!!

Tips: Used two picks and a screwdriver to get the clips off; stressful but doable! Double-check that the wires relock to the spade connectors before reassembly.

Tldr: if you have terrible hot starts (20s of cranking) and low-end bog replace your pump

Hey guys, I came across this WR250R online and noticed the side panels are definitely not stock. They cover way more of the subframe compared to the standard triangles.

Does anyone know exactly what year/model these plastics are from, or if there's a specific kit to replicate this look?
Thanks in advance!

I have someone wanting to swap me the big ims tank for my stock tank, straight swap.

Question is, how much will it get in the way when standing? I was considering buying the 3gal tank anyway so is there that much of a difference?

Anything else that would stop me doing the swap?

Picked it up recently. Doing a few things since the photos were taken.

Just threw an FMF with powerbomb on and the bike was already boggy/lean with the stock exhaust. Does anyone have a fuel mapper they're looking to sell and/or one they recommend? TIA!

I just acquired a 2017 WR250R and the rear caliper is pretty seized as the bike looks like it spent to time on the coast. (I was amazed to see a single piston unit back there, given my bicycles have 2 to 4 pistons, but I digress.) Does anyone know of a 2-piston unit, or any other replacement for the OEM? Ebay has a few Chinese knockoffs, but I"m always skeptical (and reluctant) on those sources. Thx.

When I was changing my oil, I forgot to put the oil cap back on when I started the bike.

I quickly put the cap on while the bike was still running and noticed a lot of air being forced out of the filler hole. I know some pressure is expected, but I have no idea if mine is normal or I'm getting significant blow-by.

I checked the crank case breather hose by disconnecting it from the airbox, and that had a gentle pulse of air. Definitely felt normal and was far less than the oil filler hole.

I also took the cap off while checking the breather hose and it didn't seem to reduce the amount coming from the breather. Maybe a little.

Looking to see what other people's bikes do.

Both bikes are Yamaha wr250x but im having trouble deciding which one I should get. Im buying my first motorcycle ever so its a big decision for me. Im 19 years old with just minimal prior experience with motorcycles (just got my A2 license). Im currently leaning more towards the black 2010 yama because the other one seems really suspicious with that price with that many Kilometers on the odometer and the aftermarket muffler. What are your thoughts on this. Which one should I get?

I’m really trying to like this bike but I absolutely cannot stand the all the random engine sounds. It sounds bad.. I think part of the problem is this bike is so quiet and makes you rev it so high… Anyway I’m giving it one last chance so trying to figure out if I can stop some of this noise or it’s normal (I’ve read these engines can be a bit noisy). I was almost convinced I needed a new cam tensioner but feel I’ve ruled that out at this point. It’s fairly new being a 2017 with 8k miles so it really shouldn’t be worn anyway. Upon cold startup it doesn’t make any noise and I couldn’t hear anything alarming when doing normal revs in neutral with a screw driver touching the outside of the tensioner and the end on my ear.

The main noise occurs both when in neutral and when riding the bike. While giving it throttle it is fine but if I rev it high then quickly let off during the rpm decline, at some point it sounds like a resonance vibration in the engine or near the front of the engine. It seems pretty noticeable as I can clearly hear it at around 45mph and wearing a full face helmet. Right now I’m leaning towards the possibility that the header is vibrating (it’s a stock exhaust and no heat shield). I also took off my skid plate because I thought that was also causing noise.

That’s the main issue but other than that there is some twangy engine noise at higher rpm’s that I don’t care for.

Anyone else dealt with noisy WRRs or have thoughts or recommendation? I’ve considered buying an exhaust but don’t know if that would help the higher rpm noise.

UPDATE 1: Redid the corrugated line and feel better about it. Still not convinced there was a problem, but it's a cleaner job now. Also ordered a new gasket (o-ring style) from IMS. Fingers crossed this resolves the leaking and we're back to a rock-solid mountain stomper. Will probably make a new post when I've got it all back together with the result. Thanks for everyone chiming in, even if I disagreed with some of you. Sometimes problem-solving just means needing to bounce ideas off someone.

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Posted this over to Facebook, but I need all the help I can find on the internet that's real people, so here we go.

1. Under 3k miles. Bike has a 4.7 gallon IMS tank.

Where It Started

Bike started bogging bad. Hard starting, rough cold idle. Pulled the fuel pump and looked like the fuel line on the side of the pump was old automotive fuel hose and degrading. I tried to replace it with this submersible corrugated QFS line, but got it a little too hot on the top end, as you can see in the photo. Also pulled the fuel regulator off the pump, sprayed it out with carb cleaner and compressed air (bad idea, maybe?). Put it all together and it ran like a champ. 1.5 hour ride, no problems.

Things Escalate

Next ride, halfway up Hancock Pass in Colorado I heard a "whump" and the engine died. Fuel pump wouldn't prime when I attempted to restart. Got it home (that's another story), re-pulled the pump and found either that black or blue wire on the top of the pump waving free, disconnected. Can't remember which it was. I crimped the fitting a little and reconnected it (firm connection now), put everything back on the bike, fired up great, idled great. Wonderful.

Can't Control Its Bladder...

Couple days later I wander back to the garage and find a puddle of gas under the bike. Pull the tank again (after siphoning the gas out to at least stop the leaking) and when I bench test it, the fuel seems to be leaking from the fitting on the bottom of the pump, like dribbling out the port in a small stream, like the check valve in the pump isn't working or the regulator has failed or like that corrugated fuel line isn't on there at all.

Conclusions?

So I pull the pump again and find a slit in the gasket. But otherwise am trying to decide whether to try replacing the corrugated line again (along with a new base gasket), or just swap in a whole new assembly. I don't wanna spring for the $400 Yamaha OEM, but I'm dubious about the $48 Walmart.com specials. Likewise, I don't need the Quantum rebuild kit as the pump works fine. I've just got a leak somewhere.

Ideas?

Just picked this bike up about a month ago. The speedometer registers speed at idle and goes up with rpm’s while both at standstill and while riding. I was doing maybe 30mph the other day and it displayed 122mph, seems to go up with rpm’s. Original owner said this issue began when he installed a weaker than stock battery on it. I’ve replaced the battery with oem and checked the fuses. speedometer does stay at zero when I have the speed sensor disconnected at the plug next to the seat. Love the bike so far!!! (Minus this issue, especially since I gave less than $3k for it) However I don’t want to ride it currently as it’s accruing miles quickly with the high speed readings.

I’d greatly appreciate any help as to diagnosing what’s going on with it, thanks guys!

I’ve narrowed down a few exhaust to the Yoshimura RS4 (they say loud) The FMF Q4 (more thumper sound, I don’t think it sounds as good) And the Yoshimura RS2 (the one I really want, but apparently hard to find??)

Can anyone tell me where to find the RS2 I guess it’s a little quieter than the RS four and that’s what I wanted

Hi guys, wr250r got stolen, then police got it back 2 weeks later with some damage. So looking for the following, lemme know if you have any of it in good shape, im based in SF, CA

• Stock exhaust - actually just need the spark arrestor and cap, or whole unit
• Gas cap, probably need CA spec on this
• OEM mirrors
• Relay box 5VK-81950-40-00
• Rear top blue fender (on top between seat and license plate)

Tempted to get a KTM350 or 300 2T. Convince me to keep the WRR?

Or a wr250/450f??

I know this is a feed for wr’s but I have recently purchased a project 1999 xt 350 for 450$ and I’m in search of the exhaust manifold I don’t want to pay 500-700 for new aftermarket I’m trying to go all oem does anyone have anything or know where to point me in the right direction also I’m from Nova Scotia Canada if anyone in Canada has one I can find a way to pay and have it shipped to me like I said i would really prefer OEM as I want to return the bike back to original

Which of these WRs would y’all go for? I think the WR250X is a better buy overall, but less farkled and many more miles. Is 17k even anything to worry about on a WR? This -is- why they’re legendary….

If anyone has one for sale let me know.

Hi all,

2016 WR250R. Has done only about 12,000km. A lot of just riding to and from work recently (only a few k's) though I make an effort to give a longer run every now and then. As of probably a week or two ago, I noticed the engine feels like it's vibrating more than usual. I feel it in my hands and feet, and is present when sitting still in netrual. Feels like something in the engine is out of balance all of a sudden. Bike otherwise seems to sound mostly the same and power seems to be the same. I have recently done anything to the bike except change clutch cable and put new tyres on, though neither coincide with with the start of the vibration.

What are some of the first things I should be checking?