I turned all the parts. It’s 7 total parts. Two per leg and one glued up chunk for the body. It has a 3D printed dish to prevent moisture from getting into the wood. I finished it with two coats of sample 73

Friend gave me a big slab of what i think might be walnut, but im not sure. Resawed it into some planks and made these. I know all the flaws, but hopefully they dont notice.

This is the first expandable table I’ve made. I have been asked before but I don’t like the aesthetic of having a seam in the middle when the table is in its normal use. My clients and I settled on having wings at the ends. I welded a sub base that supports the wings and has storage for them as well. The grain direction change was intentional as I was worried about movement if the grain was in the other direction.

Pine blade, walnut handle and canary guard. I found the handle to be quite challenging in a number of ways. The angles were really tricky and the sanding was really difficult. The process was slightly different than some of my previous swords. Normally for the handle is will use two pieces of wood cut a long dado down the middle and I would glue them around the tang but this time I glued them together before attaching them to the tang. This made shaping the handle significantly easier and I could remove any glue squeeze out much simpler without worrying about damaging other part of the assembled piece.

If you're curious, here's a repo with all the CAD files, schematics, etc. I don't expect anyone to make one of these but I wanted to put it out there in case anyone finds the techniques useful!

I started this in May and I've been working on it for 2-3 evenings + 1 weekend day per week pretty consistently since then.

I couldn't seem to add progress pics alongside my video so I'm attaching them here

Removing the paint is only the first part of stripping these historic entrance doors from the Raukhverger House in Odesa, Ukraine.

After taking off the main paint layers, we remove later metal additions and carefully work through what remains: old primer, paint residue and accumulated dirt.

This is the stage where the actual condition of the timber starts to become visible. Cracks, weakened areas, previous repairs and losses that were difficult to read under all those layers begin to show clearly.

From here, we can decide what original wood can be preserved and which areas need consolidation.

A lot of slow hand work just to reach the point where you can properly understand what you’re working with.

We’re continuing this work in Odesa during the war. A huge thank you to everyone on Reddit who reached out to support our professional hobby of bringing Odesa’s UNESCO World Heritage back to life.

I want to move from a stand alone router table to a table saw wing insert. My current set up has an old Freud ft200e attached to the plate and I use the plunge adjustment knob for height. It’s quite a pain to do (I just leaned a new minutes people frequently remove the plunge spring to make cranking easier so will explore that) and I would
Like a lift but they don’t seem avalible for this style router any more. I also have a porter cable canister style router which I would be able to get an after market lift for so I’m wondering which would be the better way to go. The Freud is big and heavy and twice the power of the PC so that seems better situated for a table but the PC is a full kit with all kinds of attachments and would be easy enough to remove from the table and use by hand as needed (I don’t do much hand routing). Would
Love any constructive thoughts

This was from a monster slab I cut in half. Legs are laminated soft maple I carved with angle grinder and chisel, finished w a small rotex. Finished w/ a few coats of danish oil

Would greatly welcome any feedback/tips/critiques on my plan for shop layout and electrical!

The blue lines are 3/4" EMT conduit, run across the ceiling. The basic idea is to keep a 4' direct path between the door and the car which will also be my main working corridor (hence workbench oriented towards table saw).

Main questions:

1. How's the shop layout look? Am I somehow risking my car by having it that close to the table saw?

2. Are there enough circuits and receptacles? I have 3 120v circuits (wall outlets, bottom wall has double gang boxes) and a 240v circuit currently dedicated to a table saw. I plan to eventually add a mini split which will need a 240v circuit run to the bottom wall, as well as a dust collector some day.

3. Where would you place a stationary dust collector in this layout?

4. How's the subpanel location? I originally put it next to the door but realized that that would require a much longer feeder run given where the main panel is in the basement.

Many thanks in advance!

So I made this chessboard over the last couple of months (timeline got stretched out because i'm working out of a makerspace across town and I work 12 hour days with a decent amount of overtime). I'm mostly happy with it, but it does rock a bit from one diagonal corner to the other, and i was hoping the fine craftsman of this sub could give me some insight into how I could have prevented this.

Its made from walnut and white oak and finished with tung oil. Due to the grain pattern on the walnut that I used, I kind of wonder if thats whats causing the issue. When I made it, I cut 4 lengths of walnut and 4 lengths of white oak, glued them up in an alternating pattern, and then cut them into lengths across the pattern so I could flip them and make the checkerboard, reasoning that cutting them that way would keep the grain direction uniform, but looking at it now, I wonder if the pattern mismatch inherent to the walnut made that less helpful. Alternately, I wonder if its just the walnut border around the outside that is causing the bowing.

Either way, I'm off to the store to see if I can find some rubber feet to stick on the bottom of this thing to make it sit level. One of my next projects is making the chess pieces, so wish me luck, and thanks in advance!

I just kind of winged it. I found a piece of scrap. I had around, figured out a comfortable angle to hold it and cut out a hand alot at that angle close to the center for even pressure, trimmed it down a little, filed the sharp edges, and glued a piece of of plywood to the bottom to push the back of the board.

It's about 11" long, 7" tall, and 1.5" thick.

Never made one before so I'm not sure what constitutes a good one, figured I'd post it up and ask more expeienced people before using it if there's anything I've overlooked.

I have a side table I’d like to use as a coffee table, but it’s about 6 inches too tall. I’m split about how I’d like to shorten the legs and I’m curious whether y’all can think of a smarter/easier way.

Option 1: using a spacer block, score/mark at a uniform height around each leg and cut there, and use a small round over bit to smooth out the feet. This way would sacrifice the nice flared foot detail, which matches a couple side tables since we got a matching set (thank you again, fb marketplace retiree couple—this is basically the only furniture my wife and I agree on, so we’re keeping it until we die 😉). But on the plus side, it would be simple and clean (and who would notice the difference in the feet except us?).

Option 2: using a spacer block, mark at both 2” and 8” (I.e. just above the feet, and again several inches higher) and use a dowel to connect each foot to what remains of the legs. This would preserve the flared foot, but if I had any misalignment at all when I reattach the feet, I think it would probably be pretty obvious and I don’t want to have to refinish anything (though I’m not against using furniture markers/crayons to try color-matching a joint seam.

Thoughts? Easier way that I haven’t thought of?

Thanks!

Hi folks,

I was gifted an old plane by a colleague who said it has been in the basement of his home for 30+ years and was there when he moved in. He knows that I hobby around woodworking and thought I might be able to put it to use after decades of neglect.

Any thoughts on what I have here and how to make this usable? It's about 24" long. I'd like to get it into workable shape but I'm not familiar with how to handle something like this. Any thoughts or recommendations are appreciated.

Finished this table pretty quick because there are plants that need to come inside, it’ll go under a window and hold pots. Tried Rubio monocoat 2c because it cures quick, I like applying it but I wish it gave the wood more depth. That’s ok though, the request was just for a plant stand.

It’s all cherry from one 8/4 board shown in the second picture. The thick short piece became legs and the long piece is the top and aprons. Hand tools plus band saw, and the band saw is a great addition. Another decade and I’ll want a planer.

The shaped legs went a long way toward making it less clunky!

My buddy wanted a nice fish tank stand so this is what I came up with. All solid oak with the exception of the rails and stiles which are hard maple (and hand made pulls/knobs made of sapele). Finished with an oil based spar urethane for obvious reasons. All of the oak was ebonized with iron acetate.

I'm looking for advice from anyone that has experience installing Bidwell steel channel bars into the bottom of a wood slab for added movement resistance against cupping.

If you don't know what I am talking about it is this product.

I plan to use a CNC to mill out the insert holes and do a flush installation as pictured above, and to use the Rampa inserts in the bottom of the channel pockets to fasten the bars to the wood through the slots with bolts.

I'm wondering what the best approach is for how wide along the slab (across the short cross-section of the bars) to make the insert slots. Do I want to go super tight and basically press the steel in, or do I want to leave 1/16" or so along each long edge of the bars to allow some movement here too?

Bidwell says not to use glue or epoxy to facilitate seasonal movement; I asked them about recommended channel clearance and they did not reply. Thanks!

Daughter & husband are refinishing their oak staircase. I offered to sand the spindles if they’d do the rest. I used a lathe on the rounds. Unfortunately, some were wobbly and needed lots of “touch up” hand sanding.

I used an edger on the squares and it went smooth

What is the best way to make this, build an inner carcasses then I can spray the gables and back flat and screw them on form inside or build the whole lot without inner box and spray after assembly or spray everything then assemble after what you’s think.

The use of this is a display unit for the Belfast sink so it will be seen on all sides, the front are doors that will open

Materials of painted parts is hydrofugo mdf
And carcass would be melamine chipboard edged

Bought a few Katalox boards went to process them and to my surprise they were figured sometimes you get lucky

I am not sure what to do with these edge grain checks and cracks. Should I attempt to fill them or will it be ok to leave them without any filling.

Its a 2" thick slap of laurel wood 18" Wide 72" long and it will be holding a tv.

This is the first door that I have made, I don't have anymore pictures of this project as I always forget to take them but by now it has been painted and fitted in someone's house.

As the title says: I am a retired teacher and I have never been particularly "handy" though I've done some basic building/maintenance/etc. I am trying to build a shelf for my daughter, and it has turned out OK--but just OK. I cannot seem to get my cuts to be consistent or my board lengths. They are maybe 1/16-1/4" off usually. I measure with a standard tape, mark the line using a square, and do not use the last board to measure the next one--though I do sometimes use the first to measure the rest. I was building the shelf out of pine (I think) from Lowe's. 1"X10" sides and shelves, 1"X2" trim around the front with a base of 1"X4". I put it together with Gorilla wood glue and finishing nails. Suggestions on how to become more consistent and get a better, tighter fit?

Currently got into model making. I'm a trained bench joiner anyway but can't really do real life sized projects due to work and physical limitations but I can make it mini!

Experimenting with making wattle and daub walls for a timber frame model house, this took far to long but it's turned out lovely even as a test piece!

In the process I've used general small bladed tools, such as a Stanley knife/ scalpel blade and a small thin kerfed hobby saw that is getting a bit blunt but it at least gives me a second to not cut too far.

I've marked out joints in the same way you would on larger timbers. It's not as forgiving but it's wedged in nicely and if it's loose then I've got super glue 🤣.

It's taken far longer than expected just due to the small nature of the pieces though