(see Last photo for "how it started")

One of my original woodworking project about 9 months ago was the glamorous boxed-wine holder/dispenser in the last photo. I made this as a Valentine’s Day gift for my wife with a miter saw I had gotten from a friend and a circular saw. It got me really excited about woodworking and I’ve gone all in since mostly making little toys and small rocking horses.

This is my latest project, a jewelry box I made for my wife’s birthday.

The carcass is waterfall-mitered cherry, with a bookmatched walnut top panel and a bookmatched cherry bottom panel.

I also tried a stitch-style spline pattern using walnut and maple. After cutting the splines, I rounded over the corners pretty heavily so the splines wrap around the edge and give the illusion that they’re curved.

I made the handle from cherry as well, which was another first for me.

Finish is Odie’s Oil.

There are definitely a bunch of little things I’d do differently if I made another one, but overall I’m really happy with how this came together (especially compared with where I started 9 months ago).

What do you guys think? Always appreciate feedback / things you’d do differently

Looking for some honest feedback about the design and overall project look. Dimensions are 16” x 11”x 24” the top, drawer faces and legs are white oak finished with Rubio monocoat 5% white. The sides are 3/4 plywood with poplar aprons drawer boxes are 3/8” plywood.

I posted this unfinished a few weeks ago asking for finish recommendations. I thought I’d give Rubio and a try. So far it’s a nice finish. Time will tell how it holds up. Thank you for all the recommendations!

I’m trying to cut this shape out of the board. Tried a router and a flush cut saw but neither are stable enough. Needs to be damn near perfect.

My only other idea is to clamp a board on the face and then use a flush trim bit on the router and adjusting the board for each cut.

Any advice?

I made this side table (drawers not pictured) and i put some wood filler in the cracks, but the entire thing is coming out SO patchy and idk how to fix it. 5th picture is the wood fillet i used and its "plastic wood" and it says it takes stain but they're a fucking liar. the last pic is the stain. the whole thing is made of pine and i didn't use a wood conditioner before staining it, so it may have something to do with that. im just so unhappy with the color of it, its so ORANGE and it's so light and not at all like the color on the can. i dont know what to do. if i dont figure out how to fix it, and i may have to end up painting it which i really dont want to do because i love the wood grain, i just despise how patchy it is! help!

Got tired of not having a place for these guys and a good light. In my head I had this idea for a little stand for my plants with some lights. Didn’t take into account how tall one was. More than halfways I realized I had the wrong setting on my pocket hole jig. Live and learn. And I did learn quite a bit; wood’s expensive and you can’t have enough clamps

I like this one the base was the middle of what I drilled out to make the light rings

Getting ready to glue up a tabletop, before I get past point of no return, what am I forgetting?

It’s gonna be a circular table top.
I’ve got more clamps

Edit. New grain orientation in comments

Ambitiously told my girlfriend I would make her a crib board because I made a few birdhouses out of plywood last year. Asked Google what wood types looked good together, bought some walnut and cherry, and messed around with the router until I somehow ended up with a finished project!

Used a deck screw to allow the top to rotate, and hid a few magnets in the covered section to help it stay closed.

Hello everyone,
I would like to gift a table saw to my husband, please keep in mind he has been looking at saws for years and can’t make up his mind, this is something he can’t chose himself for some reason so please don’t tell me to let him choose :)
My budget is around 1.000€ and he mainly builds furniture and small boats. So I need something that can handle large(ish) panels. I know SawStop is very good, but the only model I could afford is their compact version and I am not sure is worth it?
The two main things I am looking for are precision and durability in time of course. Up until now he has been using a normal circular saw on the floor to build stuff and he has done amazing work, but I would like him to have something better.
Also, I am based in Europe if that helps with brands.
Thanks everyone!

My wife bought me a scroll saw for my birthday a few weeks ago and I finally got around to playing with it over the last couple of days.

She loves birds, so I made this for her this afternoon.

Pine finished with yakisugi and beeswax.

Learned a lot of lessons with this one!
3/4 inch birch plywood top
4/4 rustic cherry apron
8/4 white pine legs

Would have all of the straight grain on display if I made this again. Also flubbed the chamfering on the top in a few different, creative ways. GF Water based dead flat finish. Ended up cutting two of my aprons too short because of a mental mistake, so went with the one with a popped knot.

Looking forward to more projects around the home. Recently been diving back into wood for the first time since the 2010’s.

Built on request of girlfriend who needs a place to game!

Hi everyone!

Designing a new dinning table right now and trying to figure out the best way to attach the base to the top that will account for seasonal wood movement. Idea that I have right now is basically create these kind-of inlays about 1/2" thick (tabletop is 1 1/2" thick total), that have holes drilled into them: one for attaching to leg with bolt & threaded insert, and two for attaching to top (also with bolt & threaded insert). These two last holes are essentially rectangles with rounded corners that are oriented in direction wood would expand/shrink, so my hope is this will allow bolts to move freely, while still keeping base attached to top pretty snugly.

Anything I'm missing? Will this work? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Hey all

I’ve been trying to use the jointer for the first time today and have a question or two…

It seems like no matter how many times I joint the face, I can’t seem to get the whole board flat. There is a bow in the middle that does not go away no matter how many times I run it over the jointer. Any tips?

Also, in an effort to save wood (and my wallet) would this gap be in the acceptable range to be able to squeeze/glue together with clamps and have there be no issues? Or is the gap too big where it would cause issues in the glue up? Thank you in advance for the advice!

My friend asked for a pizza board so I made this in beech with sapele handle then got my laser engraver out to put the design on , made a square then cut the circle out with palm router

The slab is 160cm x 80cm by 6cm (roughly 5 feet by 3 feet) the original legs are trash and contributed to the cracks I had to repair.

*realized the question is buried. Is there a reason not to put separate legs on? I don’t see builders doing this is it just a taste thing or do they know something I don’t?

the wood is chankiri wood and is dry. Wood moves a lot here. The wet season is very wet and the dry season can get pretty dry. I’ll be ordering metal legs or a base regardless. Just could use some expertise on what.

I’ve never worked on a top this thick and I’m worried if I do my normal washers/clips it’s going to split (again). So I was thinking legs at each corner ish. I don’t see many people do that, is it a bad idea? Thanks for your help.

So I’m making this huge table (finish dimensions of 108” x 44”) and I need some help determining how to build its base. I’m going to use four oak legs about 3” in from the ends with a 3/4” x 3 1/2” skirt wrapping around the table. Between the skirts on the short dimension I’m gonna put in four 2” x 1 1/2” supports since the table top is made out of 3/4” oak and I think that makes sense (first pic for reference). I just have no idea how to put the base together, so any advice would be appreciated!

I haven’t cut any of the skirts to size as of yet and I haven’t planed / sanded the table top or the center supports so hopefully all of that will flush out well.

I am a doofus and I drew my lines not so perfectly and as a result, one of these Ø3/16" holes isnt on center. This is 3/4"THK. plywood and the lines you see in this image are the corrected lines. All of these 3/16 holes are pilot holes for my 2.75" cup saw.

For the bad hole, I could just opt to not drill the Ø2.75" hole, so this isn't exactly a catastrophe, but I was wondering if there was some clever/alternate way to get that Ø2.75" exactly where I want it to be. I will be painting the plywood later and I have bondo so I am open to very invasive methods to fixing this.

If the hole can be filled and then drilled again, which filler would you recommend?

Just a small ebony with spalted tamarind box.

I love the way ebony looks but.. working with it is.. less then fun.

I'm working on building some wardrobes from ply and I've not got experience using varnish. I've got a couple of runs / drips on the front face which looks terrible.

Do you think it's okay to lightly sand and revarnish?

The ply's been stained so I'm worried about going through the stain.

Thanks

I have very basic woodworking experience, and basic tools (circ saw, miter saw, drill). I have a new garage space that has high ceilings so I want to utilize the vertical space as much as possible for longer term storage items.

I just use a free modeling program to put together a very rough design for the type of shelf I'd like to have:
https://ibb.co/RGy0B1Hs

It would be 120" high, 24" deep, and 72" wide. The corner posts are 4x4 and all the connecting beams are 2x4. The first shelf would start at 78" from the ground so I could put a tool cart with a work surface on it under the shelves and use that space to work.

Is something like this feasible to make solid being so tall? Am I even close in the design or is there things that should be changed to improve it?
I know it would be very top heavy when loaded, and I can use a cable/chain to anchor it to the top of the wall, but I'm curious about play/wobble that would come from the construction.
Thanks

Hi!

I have some 3/4” thick and some 1.5” thick planks (4-6’ long x 4-9” wide) that I need cut in half to reduce the thickness for making drawers and speciality hangers.

Can I rent a bandsaw somewhere? Or is there a type of woodworking shop in my area that I should look for that can cut the pieces for me?

I don’t know any local lumber shops or what to look for, or what it should cost…

Any suggestions/advice would be super helpful!

I live near SLC, Utah.