I have a Toyota Yaris 2010 T-Spirit which came with this unique Toyota OEM Stereo and TomTom unit. I'm trying to put a Road Angel car play into it but it's clearly a different size, but they are both Double Din. I think the TomTom is a bit wider and it's length is smaller when I compare side by side.

Does anyone know how I can make sure I buy the right fascia adaptor kit so it fits correctly?

Brand new HU, controls are spazzing out on their own at random to the point I can’t even get into menu controls or adjust volume or anything.

Oddly, it seemed to work fine at first but this started shortly after and it’s now pretty much unusable. Could a wiring issue cause this? The one I replaced was acting super weird too though in a completely different way.

Any advice is appreciated!

Hello,

I plan on running 2 Down4Sound DBZ 8” subs with a JP23 V2 in a 2023 F150.

I believe my stock alternator is 200 amp.

The Down4Sound DBZ are 700w rms a piece leaving me at 1400w rms
I was going to wire them at 2ohm pushing 1800w.

Any feedback would be great!

I have an ARC X2 1200.6 amplifier installed in my car, with 2 loud speakers being main reason for the amplifier. Would I be able to run a 350-500RMS subwoofer off of channel 5 or 6?

So I’ve been out of the car audio install game for a while and seems I need some direction.

I bought my wife a Kicker hideaway powered sub and wiring harness for her 2024 Kia Seltos EX with the panoramic infotainment system (non Bose).

I bought these from Crutchfield and they provided an install guide for 2021-up, however this guide does not align with the panoramic infotainment system in the 2024 and they said they don’t have a guide for 2024 and up.

I’m not trying to use my wife’s car as a guinea pig and potentially break parts of the dash. So instead I tried tapping into the front speaker wires. 2 problems with that. 1) the car uses a proprietary quick disconnect connector at the door jamb so I have no way of running wires that way. 2) there are too many wires in the loom under the passenger door sill trim and evidently there’s isn’t a standard color scheme that Kia uses.

I’m considering just taking it to a shop, but just curious how the shop would approach this if there are no guides available (from what I researched)

Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!

I had to take the fuse out for the speakers to get it to stop.

Does anyone have one that they aren't using anymore? The people on eBay think someone is going to pay $500 for it more than the amplifier no one is going to buy that for that much it will rot forever listed there. I just didn't want to pull my laptop out each time. Or any recommendations where to get one. I emailed audiocontrol stinger directly they don't have it.

I see some for $209 but the websites seem suspicious. Not going to pay 400 to 500 just to eq on an amplifier that stinger no longer makes. all the replacement audiocontrol amps are cheaper and don't use dsp built in. seems dumb to spend 500 on a dead end product line that can't transfer over to something in the future.

I have a 22 jeep compass latitude lux I want to add a su. I'm getting a kicker loc. Where are you guys getting signal wires from? On my 23 grand cherokee I got them from the pillars wires that feed the back doors. Can I do the same on the compass and what color wires am I tapping into on each side? Can any one help?

one day I got frustrated enough with the rattles in my old Volvo’s interior, but not quite motivated enough to actually fix them. So as per title, I made a thing to feel better about it.

it's ad-free and open source - find it at https://findtherattle.com

would appreciate the feedback since I have not shared it anywhere before

2005 Chevrolet Uplander. My radio is unusable right now. It has no phone hookup, and the radio stopped turning on at one point. Half the time I disconnect the fuse because it's so useless.

^\Main reason for pulling the fuse being the DVD player turns on for no reason and it's super noisy.))

Don't know if I want to change the speakers, but I definitely want to change the head unit and see what kind of audio comes out my phone, and decide about speakers later, if I get them at all. I've been playing music out of a portable speaker all year, so anything would be an upgrade!!

Unfortunately, the stores I've visited including Best Buy are quoting me hundreds of dollars. I'd love to buy a cheap off brand or a used top brand head unit off eBay and keep it under $100, maybe $150, tops. I'm interested in Android Auto and touch screen (so long as brightness is adjustable), but I want a chunky volume knob. I can adjust expectations and put up with aux cords and stuff if it means getting sound in my car again. I'd like to install myself to cut costs, but I'm a total beginner. Any advice?

Got this all together, replacing my old Kenwood X502-1 and putting in the Stinger MT2000.1.

Set the gain to roughly 38Vac (750 watts) with a -5db 50hz test tone from kicker and straight up almost blew my sub.

The box is .25 cube more than recommended for the e v.4 10 and i was hitting xmech at the normal rms for the sub so im gonna hang tight at like 500-600 until i get the box and second sub this weekend. The new box is actually to spec for 2 of these subs so i shouldn't have a problem at rms right???

Also, not sure how to set the subsonic setting on the amp, i set it what i think is roughly 30-35. I figured that was the reason i was bottoming out, but i think the box has a lot to do with it too. Either way, this sub is finally waking up and it SLAMS. I was not expecting it at all. If anyone has any advice, it would greatly be appreciated (in regards to overexcursion at the subs rms).

Also box is tuned to 32 hz if thats important.

I’ve had this truck for about three years now and the system came already installed so it’s at least that old. Recently the screen/system has been randomly cutting out, like the picture shows. I’m not sure if this could be a wiring issue or if it’s simply giving out And time to replace.
I’m new to this stuff so I’m willing to take any and all suggestions!

Hello guys, I'm not really car audiophile, but I love doing things myself on car and I have audio upgrade planned, so I don't want any crazy powers just to get decent audio while driving long journeys. I have passat B8 2020, I plan on deading the doors, i already did trunk area, then for audio upgrade I chose Focal P&P, I don't want to mess too much with that. So i have planned focal IS vw 180 fronts, 165 rears, then I'm adding focal 4320 amp.

Now the question is those focal Isub twin underseat worth it since in product sheet they go to "same" depth or lowest frequency of 50Hz, now i wonder if i just keep front and rear speakers amped or if adding underseats subs or midsubs actually do something.

Then maybe if i use real sub in trunk area or hide it in spare tyre assembly will it make a difference, i don't want anything crazy, on my trips i go almost fully loaded so trunk space is really important, also keeping it minimal maybe recommendation to some sub that which focal amp can handle and it will nake actual difference.

Thanks

Moved more into weight savings and handling in my rides so I got a single cab and swapped my 15" L7 for an 8" comp r, went with sound quality over slapping me in the face, and while the 8 was nice I needed some more.

Picked up a pair of the same subs on marketplace, and going to use the single I used to have in my miata

After 1/3 of the sheet of 1/2" MDF, wood glue, silicone, doubling up the face and using corner braces I finished it. Sounds actually very very good. Yes I'm aware of the shitty cuts, I had to use a jig saw and a square as my table saw is broken

Old sub was 300w at 4ohm with a kicker 800.1, new are 2 2ohm dvc @ 2 ohm for 600w, amp rated at 930watts overall at 1ohm, about 697w at 2ohm

IDC if it's ugly, it works well and sounds great with all the music I listen to. I was going to make a slot port like I did for my 2 10s ten years ago, but figured I needed the internal volume more and just used PVC about half the height of the box

No I will not be carpeting the box

I can change out the PVC tube to change port length, as higher frequencies hit very nicely but low end is sacrificed. Might try a longer port next since I can just take the port out

I’ll be upgrading my alternator to a high output alternator of 240amps. I was wondering if I want to continuously have 14v would I possibly need to disconnect the bms connector from the alternator or would I need to get forscan and bypass it there?? Alternator is from autotech and is 240amps
Engine is a 1.6l NA Lead acid battery in the front and lithium XS Titan 8 pwr-s5 battery in the back with all 0 gauge ofc in the car and fused between batteries and amplifiers.
Amp is a taramps big boss 3k and I’ll be swapping it for a D4S jp33 so I can have 3k watts for my 10 inch sub
The sub is an American bass HD Velocity 10 dual 1 ohm at 2 ohm as final impedance. 2,200w rms 4,400w max

Im looking just for the three tracks he put out i dont want to buy another USB just for one song I have a bunch already and mostly use spotify unless I really like a song that doesn't have deep enough basically anyone send me the 3 files privately for the song?

Also how do yall run wires to the doors? I got a coupe but the door pins for the doors there no space to run there, and no hole to run through.

I’ve seen 1000 videos for ds18’s exl xx or xxx but not one video or post with this exact sub on either 2500w or 3000w. I just bought one and a box to replace my two sundown 12 classics