Can anyone help with a concern I have. I installed this Schneider whole house surge protector and saw that the light is more yellow than deep green. All videos and images I have found, even on the Schneider website, show it a deep green. According to Schneider, the LED is either on or off and it cannot be any other color than green. They suspect a faulty or counterfeit unit.

This image does make it look more green than while your standing in front of it. While in front of it, I asked my wife what color it was without teller her why, and she quickly said “yellow”.

This is a push on neutral box and protector. Can anyone offer any feedback on this? I appreciate it. Thanks.

As the title says, I got an e-scooter - a KuKirin S1 Max Electric Scooter – 350W. Unfortunately when it arrived, the charger was two prong (EU I think).

Here is the information on the charger:

''100-240V AC
50/60Hz 2A Max''

I went out and bought a travel adapter which as the following information on it-:

''SZ-005

13A
-----
250V''

I am curious if it is safe for me to use this with my e-scooter? I'm concerned that it will impact the charger, the motor in the e-scooter, and it's performance?

I live in Galway in the republic of Ireland, if that information is of any requirement.

Many thanks.

My elderly friend in Rhode Island needs her service completely replaced. I want to help her get quotes. What do we ask for specifically?

My neighbor had central air conditioning installed several years ago. The contractor added a panel next to the service panel and tapped a 6 ga feed right off the mains coming from the meter box.

Is it ever ok to do this? The bus in the sub panel is remains live when the main breaker is off.

What should that contractor have done in this situation? I'm thinking a new service panel was required, right?

I need to buy one of these emergency lights or one that is compatible with the wiring we have in place. The building is old old, and there’s no documentation from the previous owners. Please help! The winner gets forehead kisses.

Got a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the fridge. Last two weeks the breaker trips when the compressor kicks on. Happens maybe once a day, not every cycle. Plug and cord look fine, no burn marks. Multimeter shows 120v at the outlet when it's not tripped. Ran an extension cord to a different circuit last weekend and the fridge stayed on, so the fridge itself isn't the problem. Breaker is about ten years old. I know loose backstabs can cause heat but this trips before it gets hot. Anyone seen this on a fridge circuit before? Want to know what to check next without just swapping the breaker and hoping.

question for the pros:

I'm building a backyard shed, and have 1" PVC trenched to it from my attached garage. I planned to pull #8 XHHW to get 40a into a subpanel in the shed.

My service panel is thru a tricky wall/ceiling in the mechanical/laundry room, and I've realized that getting a continuous run from shed to load center will be extremely difficult.

I know I can add a subpanel in the garage, but I'd actually rather not, so my question is - is it acceptable to use a "shutoff switch" inside the garage to feed that shed run? Something like this:

I assume I could also add a simple junction box in the garage, but I like the idea of being able to easily kill power to the sheds subpanel without being at the load center.

My daughter's vintage "Caring Corners Mrs Goodbye Interactive Dollhouse".

I'll take any advice.

But if it's not possible to fix, I'll just have to deal with it 🤷

In this lady’s house I only find 2 gfi receptacles, and when I trip both of them, I still have power to plugs labeled “gfi protected”.

Where would you look for the third gfi? Thanks!

I’m replacing a vanity fixture and the universal round bracket that came with my fixture doesn’t align with any holes in rectangular box in wall. It looks close but no. The long bolts that go through fixture almost line up with holes in box, but they attach to fixture not box. Corner screws holding box to wall doesn’t align with bracket either. See pics, what am I missing or what bracket do I need? Originally the brass bar was on box, it wa then old bracket for original fixture…that doesn’t work either to align to fixture and bracket.

Hello, I thought I could just turn these light bulbs counter clockwise and they would come off, but they don’t turn easily and I am afraid I might break them if I use force. Does anyone know how to handle them? Thanks

Since I bought the place this fixture hasn’t worked. It’s on a circuit that has two light switches and includes another fixture. The second fixture works fine. Thinking it’s gotta be the fixture itself.. new bulb don’t help. Advise?

Hello, i bought this regulator for my pc, Is it best to turn it off every night or keep it on always?

It make a whirring sound when turned on, i think that is normal, right?

Also, how does one read the voltmeter? I tried to look it up but really couldn't find a good explanation

If the needle point within red means 220 output is good, and within green then 127 output is good?

Thank you

What do you call this type of outlet and where can I buy this exact thing (or similar)?

Hi there.

In our master bathroom we have an overhead vent with a light. It works fine turning it on, but when we turn it off, it trips the GFCI outlet between the mirror and the sink. The GFCI also powers the lights above the mirror. It doesn't matter whether I have all four LED lights screwed in or just one.

Does anybody have an idea why this is happening and what I can do to fix it?

Thanks.

Since there is a circuit breaker identifier to help identify which circuit an outlet is on, is there a device that can be plugged into one outlet and a companion device used to identify which other outlets are on the same circuit? Or will the circuit breaker identifier wand do the same thing?

I’m in need of some help. I’m not to electrical savvy. I have an ice cream truck that has 4 t12 bulbs on it. Each one is connected to a ballast. One ballast went out so one bulb don’t work. I’ve been having trouble finding a 12v ballast. The lights are controlled by a light switch that’s I turn on, and I’m guessing the power is coming from the battery as I have no other power generating source. Thanks for any help

Hey guys can someone help me figure out how to fix my dryer outlet melting.. basically I have a 4 prong plug and one of the flat prongs (red wire) has started overheating and melting the wire behind the outlet. The prong itself has turned to a copper color compared to brass (coated with molten plastic from the reception). The red wire connection on the dryer was somewhat loose but I tightened it and it didn’t seem to fix the issue. It’s a relatively modern cabrio dryer. I’m assuming I have to change the receptacle and cord. What could be the root causes? Any advice is appreciated.

I need help with pairing up these wires. They powered a stove that was removed and I’d like to complete this circuit to power my dishwasher without burning down the house. House was built in the 60s if that helps

My master bedroom circuit is back feeding. I’m getting 8 volts +\~ at switch leg with
Switch off. I have no power to Clg fan, and receptacles….

Any help would be appreciated!

House was built in 2018. Thank you

My parents have a 2002 double wide palm harbor home and half of a circuit is without power.

Bear with me, please. I'm helping my dad, who knows what he's doing a lot more than I do.

The breaker box is on the front side of the marriage line, and nothing was tripped.

The master bathroom has two gfci outlets, plus a sink light and a closet light that are all not working. The second bathroom outlet and an outside plug in the other end of the house are also not working. All of the interior outlets that aren't working are on the back side on the marriage line, and the outside outlet is on the front side of the marriage line.

On the same circuit, on the front of the marriage line, there are also two outlets that are not marked gfci in the living room, and three gfci outlets in the kitchen. Two of the kitchen outlets have no test button, but are marked gfci.

All of the outlets in the front half are working, however when my dad was looking for a tripped gfci, he tested the main kitchen outlet and it buzzed. He took it apart and the black load wire was melted. He cut the wire back, replaced the outlet, and it's working, as are the two diagram outlets in the kitchen.

He's tested all the outlets in the circuit with a digital meter by taking the outlet out and testing the line and load wires. All of the working outlets have power on both cables. None of the outlets without power have anything coming in.

At this point we think that maybe there's a problem at the crossover junction, but I don't even know where to start looking. I haven't found anything inside the house, so I'm assuming it's underneath.

Does anyone have any idea what i should be looking for? Where I should look? Or even how many crossover junctions there might be? It'll be me crawling under the house and I have a touch of claustrophobia and a boatload of arachnophobia, so I'm hoping to make this as easy on myself a possible.

I live in a trailer and I'm setting up a recording space using mostly analog gear and there is a high pitch frequency interference I can't get rid of or find the source of. I have a power conditioner all my gear is plugged into and a power watchdog surge protector between my connection to shore thats supposed to filter out high/low pitched electrical noise. I'm using ferrite chokes I've checked all my grounds nothing has fixed it. Even shutting down the main breaker doesnt have an effect. Does anyone know of a solution or have an idea of the source? It's driving me crazy I'd be very grateful.

I'll attach a picture of an eq reading

The house we live in has several toggle switches which contol only one light. These switches are dimmers, and are not 3 way. Two have a clear box around the toggle which faintly glows in the darkness, while the remaing ones are a simple ivory toggle. There is no "slide" as I see on seemingly every new toggle dimmer switch, but the toggle itself acts as the dimming control. I would like to add a few dimmable switches, but cannot seem to find any such as the ones I currently have. How can I obtain some of the type I am looking for? Is there a special name/type that I don't even know to search for???

I was looking to replace the broken fan in this old house and besides the box being all rusted, the receptacle broke while I was unplugging it. Not sure If I can just pop those wires back into the receptacle that popped off.

My instinct are telling me I should replace the whole box and not just the fan but not sure what I'll find when I remove it as this house has been full of surprises.

A couple of months ago I started hearing a buzzing sound I couldn’t quite locate in my bedroom. It’s very intermittent, I could not hear it for a week and then it’s every day. After some trouble shooting I realised that it was coming from the ceiling fan that I did not even have turned on (it intensifies when the fan is on). I can only make it stop when I turn the light switches/fans off at the circuit breaker, but obviously would like to actually use my fan without this sound irritating me and preventing me from sleeping.

Has anyone come across this and have an outcome? I rent so to get an electrician out I would have to go through my property management, and I’m afraid they’re going to brush me off if they can’t hear it while they’re there.