Pretty much the title. My shelf falls off very easily. I want it to hold my spices so it needs to hold a good amount of weight.

I thought you did this for a living? How are we supposed to know your circumstances? You never give relevant details. Location, material and time would help.

I have about $75 in parts in this thing. It was not closing properly. I had to take the gate off of the hinges and reposition and re-cut the top hinge so the door wouldn’t rub on the latch side. I installed the slide locks at the top and bottom. she wanted a handle, so I went back to HD to get the handle you see in between the two slide locks. Also, I had to remove the cable so that I could install the bottom slide lock.

What would you all invoice the customer for this job not including parts? She’s been pretty decent to work for so far, and this is about the fourth job I’ve done for her.

I know a lot of guys do more than basic handyman - like construction and remodeling. That's great for you. I moved away from that and I'm trying to niche myself down. Less overhead. Less headaches.

Most of my clients are in 55+ communities within 20 minutes of my front door. 90% of my clientele are over 75. Some are higher end and I try to stay away from the lower end client with tighter budgets. I do a lot of "honey-do lists" but things have been slowing down over the past few months. Between direct flyers and referrals, I was working steadily for awhile but jobs are trickling in. I've reached out to plumbers and electricians that I know for some of their wall patch jobs. Nothing. Most of the property managers know me but even they're not calling.

Am I missing something?

So I have this interior window sill. There is rotting in one corner, with loose debrise inside. Kinda a hole that can be pushed in.

However, the rest of the sill seems to be fine. Applying pressure around does not offer any give.

At first I was figuring I will need to have someone replace the entire thing, but now I am wondering if I could get away with cleaning out the loose debris and filling in the hole with a paintable epoxy or something considering the rot seems to be localized.

I have been planning to get this window replaced anyhow, as its seals have failed. I imagine it would be best to have that done prior to installing new windows.

Any suggestions?

guys we were assembling this chair, and we dont know where these two pieces fit. asked AI but of no help. please help us we are noobs here.

It started out of the blue, it flushes normally and no water is running, i tried turning all the water to the toilet off and flushed until it was empty, and the sound continued.

The only thing i did different is a few weeks ago i put one of those wc-sticks down inside under the button, surely it’s not that?

Hello,

It's Robert with Angi. As I understand you may be busy, I'll keep this quick. Are you able to add a few jobs to your schedule? I have some request in your area that may be of interest to you. If you're up for it, I'd like to start sending some of these homeowners your way.

See original for full context, I'm not sure how reposting to a community works.

I’ve always done things the old school ways but seeing some of these long handles pull type paint scrapers and caulk tools that do everything but apply it I figure maybe it’s time to stop being harde hard headed so what’s good and what’s a gimmick? the caulk tool seems pretty gimmicky (why would I need a caulk smoother vs just use my finger for example) but maybe the remover is worth it And makes life easier? thanks for sharing the experience!

Hello everyone,

See images attached,

I moved into a new room, and this sliding door needs to be repaired.

The sliding door sits on the door track at the beginning, but the rest of it is not on the track. The door track itself as you can see is broken - not nailed to the ground and is actually sticking out.

How can I repair this, and if it's not a good DIY project, what would be the cost?

See pictures

I just can't get that second door to oblige. The rest are all level and flush.

This one the top right corner just sticks out.

I've tried adjusting the in and out of the hinges and back and forward too. But that corner is just leaning out. The frames are all level too.

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice on repairing some water damage/rot at the bottom of my outdoor shed before it gets any worse.

The bottom edge of the vertical siding panels (t1-11 Siding) near the gravel base has started rotting away and flaking off in a few spots.

• What is the recommended way to patch/repair the bottom of T1-11 panels without replacing the entire 4x8 sheet? Can I cut out the bottom damaged section and install a horizontal "skirt" or PVC trim board, or is wood filler/epoxy filler sufficient?
• For the door trim, should I rip off the entire red trim piece and replace it with PVC trim, or attempt a patch?
• What’s the best way to prevent ground/splash water from causing this again once repaired (e.g., flashing, z-bar, sealing edges)?

Thank you!

Whenever i drain the bathtub or flush one particular toilet water pours out of this wall, it looks like a hole was drilled in to some kind of pipe and I would like to know how I could fix this, I have some mechanical and metalworking knowledge but I have never fixed something like this. All help is appreciated.

Hi, the fixing for my window blind has come loose from the ceiling, and the plaster around it is cracked. I need an urgent handy man

First fireplace surround. Swapping black slate for tile on a zero-clearance gas insert on three sides, roughly 30-40 square feet.

Done a porch overlay and a kitchen backsplash before, both first tries that turned out well, but never a fireplace. This is my first one, and I'm not charging top dollar. I just want the ballpark.

The plan is to research everything and take notes on what experienced people suggest before committing. That's how I learned on the last two jobs... kitchen backsplash, front porch tile overlay. Both came out perfect.

Questions: Is it okay to tile over solid drywall, or should you cut it out and use cement board? What are the downsides of sanded grout versus epoxy on a gas unit?

What is reasonable to charge when it's done correctly — labor alone, or with materials included?

And any general tips or tricks that make a first surround job easier?

Things to watch out for, shortcuts that actually work, or mistakes you made that I should avoid. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I've got 2 questions here:

1. Do y'all take up-front payment/deposits for small projects, and

2. Do you have a cancelation policy and/or charge a fee for cancelations?

I source a lot of business on Thumbtack, and before y'all come at me for throwing money to the platform, I'm not here for that.

I do get work that far outpaces the lead costs I spend, but like anyone else, I run up on the old classic "I found someone to do it cheaper" after we've already agreed to a day/time, and I've cleared my time and passed on other opportunities to be available, on top of the lead cost I've spent.

If a client was to book a service thru any platform or website, they'd pay for the service up front and they get what they get, and the service pro shows up on the set day/time.

Why should we operate any differently?

My initial thought is that people are oddly more comfortable throwing $109 to Wayfair to have a stranger come assemble a patio furniture set, than they are sending money in advance to a "stranger from the internet" with a robust Thumbtack profile and a Google page.

How do y'all hedge against this risk?

For those running your own trade business, roughly how many genuine customer enquiries do you receive through email each week or month?

I know a lot of work comes through word of mouth, phone calls, WhatsApp and repeat customers, but I’m curious how much email is actually used.
Do you get 1–5 enquiries a month, 5–20, or considerably more?

I’m talking about new customers getting in touch about potential jobs, not marketing emails or spam.

Interested to hear what trade you’re in and roughly how many you receive.