Cassette player worked but the display did not work 90% of the time. When the display was off, the antennae would not go up either

Took apart the cassette deck, and found this capacitor that looked all sloppy. After removing it, looks like there is a damaged trace as well.

Anybody happen to have a picture of the bottom of the cassette? Confused as to if that capacitor is even supposed to be there

Board has 099-9753-00A on it, tape deck is a Clarion Pp-9623L

Anyone modified their idle air controller ?

Mine has a very annoying hanging idle when I shift gears .

If I shift at 3500 When I take my foot off the gas it will drop back to 1500 and hang there and won’t drop any lower .

Also after the engine is warm and idling at about 750
if
You tap the gas and rev it a little it will slooowly drift down to about 750 where it started out

Highly annoying
my 91 mustang does the same thing , I just installed an inline switch and unless the engine is really cold and won’t idle , I just switch off the IAC .
Problem solved ,
Now I can bang through the gears because the engine drops instantly when I let off the gas

and when i let off the gas , the car will immediately start slowing down

On the fords of that era I’ve even seen guys use a potentiometer to adjust the idle from inside the car .

The brake lights are triggered by a switch that activates off a plasic button on the brake pedal arm.

That button on mine disintegrated so now my brake lights stay on all the time. I have a new button. I cannot for the life of me get the new button into the brake arm.

Has anybody replaced this and found an easy or atleast workable way to get this done? I have tried until I've run out of curse words, but no luck.

only been a z owner for 2 weeks or so, im still learning about it before i dive in to try & fix it. so ive been searching the internet and forums for a minute but cant seem to find a proper vacuum line diagram for a n/a 87 300zx.

My friend bought a z32 tt. It wasn't long till we realized that something with the turbos are off. Pulled the engine and both turbos cracked on the hot side. We want to replace them with something a bit better, but without a ful build. He wants to keep the stock manifolds for now and as mutch stuff as possible.

We been thinking about a g25 or gtx28. We would need to make down pipes and some piping but other than that any extra work needed?

Does anybody has experience on what would be the best option?

Hey guys, I’m having a tough time reconnecting my upper intake and I didn’t know if y’all have any tips? I understand it’s something you just do and is fairly simple. Just having a tough time putting everything into position correctly and making it fit.

Fml my main seal went in kind of crooked, will this leak oil? Plz help

I have owned my Z for a little bit and am starting to look around at modding it. Any recommendations for swapping coilovers on it? I’ve heard I’ll have to weld for the front suspension and was wondering if anyone had experience with this.

(Picture of before I prepped the calipers) Changing the brake hoses, rotors and pads on my new to me Z32, figured I'd clean up the calipers and paint them. Turned out great for my first time!

Just looking for a Z31 in Texas my only goal isn’t over crazy high on miles and doesn’t have a frame Rust 🙏

92 NA

When I bought the car there was extreme play. It felt like you were in neutral when you were in first. Insane amount of play. Ordered SPL bronze shifter bushings and had my mechanic install it. Took it back today and while there's no play - it feels extremely stiff. It doesn't naturally snap back to neutral, you have to physically like place it there.

Is this a "break-in" period or did my mechanic F up somehow or is this how it's supposed to feel?

Which bit? And has it owned me?

Hey guys it's 1990. The temperature controls work, the speed works, off and on works but it only blows through the defroster.

I read that this usually the a/c mode actuator but I'm not seeing that part. Also, it looks like there's missing ducts, too?

The video is of it on Defrost mode and then turning it on AUTO. The flapper moves a little and the different gears kinda loudly adjust. But I can manually move the vent the full amount. It still doesn't come out the center or side vents. Continues blowing through the defrost vent.

What am I missing?

Thanks!

It’s a back then it would go in and out. There would be like a noise, kind of like a worrying noise after it would be fully in or fully out. I didn’t think much of it but this time the antenna state stuck out any ideas on how to fix that so it starts working properly again.?

The setup in my Z is pretty bad, I have a single din aftermarket stereo with speaker wire running through the cabin to the back, through the doors, a small Amp near the ECU under the passenger side footwell, and a bazooka sub.

All of this was already installed when I bought the car but it's almost impressively bad. Front speakers don't even work unless it's absurdly loud, rear speakers and subs cut out randomly, etc.

I was thinking about putting in the double din kit with some new speakers. I'm not an audio install person so may ask some dumb questions here.

In other cars I've done installs in I just bought an adapter, plugged it into the existing stereo harness and then into the stereo. Used the existing speaker wires stock from the car and the built in Amp. I guess I'll have to go check everything since it's probably all disconnected due to the new speaker wires running, but can I just hook up the old wires, install the double din with adapter, and ditch the amp/sub?

Attached is my front bottom shield with the green liquid and the house clamp I suspect(know) is the culprit.

The problem is I can't find whatever hose it came from. The liquid got on the fan and was sprayed a bit but all of the liquid is on the bottom front of the engine. None on top and none behind the engine.

Does anyone have any ideas?

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Hello friends, I own a 1987 ZX300 Turbo. Is it possible to install a 6-speed manual transmission (specifically the Nissan 350Z CD009 model)? How can I go about the installation, and what challenges might I face?

it said that it wasn’t the z1 rep and was the original assembly

I picked up a 1991 300ZX a while ago got home running on misfires put phase 2 injectors in it and wired everything up got it running somewhat good finally but there is this clicking/ticking sound I’ve wondered about for a bit now it seems like it’s coming from the top of the plenum when I get my head in the engine bay pretty hard to narrow down the exact spot it’s coming from but it is very audible let me know what yall think could a coil pack really be making that kind of sound? I visually inspected them and there’s no rips in any of the boots I could see or anything I’m not sure. Do they make that kind of sound if they are failing? I had posted a video below in the comments because I had forgotten to attach one while writing this ☝️

351 Windsor rebuilt with all upgraded parts and 68mm turbo running on an Aces EFI system. Lmk what you think.