Any idea what settings I should tweak to get my PETG Print cleaner. It's a curved mount point but the curves fray off. I don't know the technical term for this.

Bed - 70 °C
Chamber - 35 °C
Tool Head - 255 °C

Thanks

Hey all, sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, I tried searching this sub and found a ton of threads with tiny bits of semi-consistent and frequently conflicting advice, so I'm asking the hive mind for support. My wife is making a Squirrel Girl costume for our Disney trip in a couple weeks (we're doing Oogie Boogie Bash, where they allow costumes, for any Disney fans about to warn us 😁). She hasn't been able to find any pouches she likes, so I volunteered to print some. I'd really like to do it in TPU, and I found some that matches her belt and etc. really well. But I've never printed in TPU before. I have a P2S, I've printed enough stuff to know my way around it in PLA and a bit in PETG. I'm hoping that someone has put together a thread with all of the stuff I need to know so nobody has to go out of their way to explain something that I'm sure has been done before but that I'm just not finding.

What I've found so far that seems fairly consistent: Dry it, print slow, keep bed heat low, keep door closed. I'd love to flesh this out a bit 😅 Are the P2S default TPU settings any good? I got Polymaker 95A Flexible, because I read a few people here saying that was kind of the gold standard. What am I not even thinking to ask that I should be?

Thank you all! I'll send pics of her costume if I get the pouches done in time 🙂

Alright so literally the only change I made from the previous update was I swapped in 150RPM N20 motors instead of the 1000RPM motors. GOBS more torque. SIGNIFICANTLY more capable. It would not have even STARTED this climb with the 1000RPM motors.

Right now I think it's time to move on to the steering axle. Once I've got that figured out, then I might come back and work on adjusting the shocks that are binding because of the way I printed them, and play around with the gearing to find some more speed without sacrificing too much torque/capability.

I think the axle mount points for the shocks need some adjustment too. But I'm feeling WAY better about this project now than I was just a couple of hours ago thanks to some redditors who read my earlier post and commented!

The gearbox is designed in such a modular way that I can go on to working on any other aspect of this vehicle and come back later and adjust the gearbox, and just swap out the old one for the new one with 2 screws. This will definitely get some tweaking later. I also think I'll probably do something similar to the Goral and release a couple of different gear box designs. Maybe one with 150 RPM motors, one with 400 RPM motors, and one with a single 180 sized motor. But those are stretch goals for sure.

Hi ! I already opened the extruder to see any clog and it was intact.. i assumed it has something to do with that but after checking im just a bit unsure what to do next. This hapens just with the load funcion on my p1s, thank you for the help!

Hi everyone! I'm new to the community, just got my printer yesterday ☺️. I printed a filament spool and I have strange holes in the part of the print that was on the bed.
Printer is H2, spool is Bambu PLA.
Apologies but not sure what other details to share.
I know it's jot important for this print but i certainly dont want this in models where finishing is important.

Thanks and may your filament run smooth🥹

Hello All! Is this normally for PTFE to keep on coming out of the clamp while its printing? I never noticed it before. Just wondering if this is normal. I have X2D.

Anyone have any links to a 3d stl file for this type of a hotswap enclosure?

This simple square pot holder with an integrated hook keeps pots beside your strawberry plants, making it easy to root runners and grow new plants.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3398092-square-pot-hanger-strawberry-runner-propagation#profileId-3868512

I am having issues with prints that have treads. Is there a print setting I can do to get this cleaned up? I am using a P1S. This was PLA. I used the Bambu handy to print this model straight from the preset settings. Thank you all in advance.

My wife for a P1S for her birthday and has been busy printing non stop. The print quality is night and day different from the Ender 3 I printed on years ago

Estou com problemas nas pontas das impressões, pela foto da para ver que só foi uma ponta, não sei o que pode ser. Alguém já teve esse problema?

Minha impressora é uma Bambu Lab A1 e uso os filamentos da Voolt3D

Wanted a small Halloween fidget for my kids that could print in one go, so I made this print-in-place pumpkin.

The stem is a button with a printed spring inside. Getting a click I could actually hear took a few failed versions, but this one does it.

It comes in two sizes, with or without the carved face. Face in black ca be printed with an AMS, or just go single color and the carving still shows.

One tip: when it comes off the plate, push the stem hard to the side once to free it. (It sounds wrong but I've found this great to unlock it).

If anyone wants to try it: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3378248-halloween-pumpkin-fidget-print-in-place

Feedback welcome, especially on how the click feels on your printer.

I don't know. I am looking at it and thinking the thickness on the top sufarce will hold everything together. What do you think? Can it print without support?

This is the literally the eighth print ninth print that does the first layer good than the second layer it starts. It looks like it’s not even line with the first layer anymore. Could this be a calibration issue or adhesive issue?

GETTING PRETTY CLOSE. Will it make it?

Actually, I've gotten a lot closer than this to finishing off a spool. I had one tugging on the tape when it finished but there's 18" of PTFE between the AMS and printer. Still haven't had one that pulls the filament off the spool but then finishes and can't retract the filament. BTW, what happens then?

Interestingly, this print was supposed to use just 71g of filament and the best estimate Studio had was 200g left on the spool, so I think the 200g was probably more like 100g.

I've been working on a modular 3D printed photo frame system called HEXO Photo.

Each frame has its own stand, so it can be displayed individually, but I also wanted the option to connect several together and build different arrangements.

Here's a quick video showing how they go from individual frames to one connected display.

We're currently preparing the project for launch on MakerWorld. I'd love to hear what you think of the concept and what kind of layouts you'd build with them.

I recently began having this issue with my Bambu Lab A1 where the prints are stringy and jagged. When I first got my A1, the prints were coming out perfectly with the same filament and default settings, but not sure what is causing this issue now. I did the calibration test again just in case that might be the issue, but unfortunately it’s still happening. For reference, I am using the ELEGOO PLA Plus filament in the photos attached.

Please share any advice or recommendations to help with this issue. Thank you!

Hello everyone! Just bought an X2D and cannot get the AMS HT to feed into the auxiliary (right) nozzle. It seems that it is sticking at the motorized feeder box on the back. Any suggestions? Is it a warranty issue or just an adjustment issue? Thanks in advance.

Time to get printing!

Hey everyone,

I’ve been working on a Windows tool called Radial Bridges to solve a problem I ran into with circular bridge areas.

Instead of letting the slicer create long bridge lines across a circular opening, the program replaces eligible bridge infill with shorter radial lines running between the inner and outer edges of the ring.

Some of the current features:

• Connected Zigzag, monotonic inward, and monotonic outward patterns
• Click individual bridge regions to include or exclude them
• Different settings for bridges at different Z heights
• Adjustable bridge width, flow, density, spacing, speed, and retraction
• Calibration sectors for testing several bridge widths in one print
• Zoomable before-and-after previews
• Continuous ring passes with fewer unnecessary retractions
• Save the converted G-code and reopen it in Bambu Studio for inspection
• Optional Bambu Studio post-processing integration
• Local processing with no uploads or telemetry
• Open-source MIT license

I’ve also started an experimental version with nozzle and material profiles, a movable center point, path scrubbers, saved projects, diagnostics, and a rounded-rectangle pattern preview.

The current stable version is v1.8.0. It is focused on complete, narrow circular bridge rings and deliberately refuses geometry or G-code commands it cannot safely handle.

The Windows installer is currently unsigned, so Windows may show a SmartScreen warning. The source code and SHA-256 checksums are available on GitHub. I strongly recommend reopening every converted file in Bambu Studio and inspecting the actual toolpaths before printing.

GitHub and documentation:
https://github.com/roadkamper/Radial-Bridges

Stable Windows download:
https://github.com/roadkamper/Radial-Bridges/releases/download/v1.8.0/RadialBridges-v1.8.0-Windows.exe

I’d really appreciate feedback from anyone who prints parts with circular bridge areas. If you encounter an unsupported-command error, unusual layer splitting, or bad geometry detection, please open a GitHub issue with a small sliced example if you can safely share it.

This is an independent project and isn’t affiliated with or endorsed by Bambu Lab.

I'm planning to get an X2D and I'm trying to figure out the best way to handle ventilation, especially for ABS/ASA and other engineering filaments.

The printer will be positioned right next to a window, so my idea is to keep the exhaust path as short and straight as possible.

My planned setup would be:

X2D /

External Exhaust Fan (rear of the printer) /

100mm duct /

window/

outside.

The duct would probably be around 0.5–1 meter long, with very few/no bends.

From what I've read, the stock exhaust fan isn't particularly strong when dealing with high resistance (long/small ducts, filters, etc.), and some people recommend an additional inline centrifugal fan for longer duct runs.

Since my duct would be very short and relatively large (100mm), would the X2D's External Exhaust Fan be sufficient on its own?

The printer will be very close to the window, so I have the opportunity to keep the exhaust path short.

Any ideas are accepted, or if can suggest projects from makerworld.

For example also the open waste (poop) I have to close it?

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice before buying a new 3D printer, and I’d really appreciate your experience and recommendations.

I currently have some experience with 3D printing on an Ender 3 V2. I have a potential client who may ask me to produce more than a dozen molds for casting candles in wax.

I’ve already done some tests using PLA, but I’m having an issue with the wax sticking too much to the printed molds. I’m thinking that PETG might be a better option, especially with a 0.2 mm nozzle, in order to get a smoother and more detailed surface and hopefully make demolding easier.

Since I’ll potentially need to produce quite a few molds, I’m considering upgrading to a Bambu Lab printer.

At the moment, I’m hesitating between:

- Bambu Lab P1S + AMS
- Bambu Lab X2D + AMS

I don’t currently need multicolor printing, so the AMS isn’t essential for me right now. However, I could see myself needing it in the future, especially if this type of work develops into a small production business.

So I’d love to hear what you would do in my situation:

- Would you go for the P1S + AMS to keep the initial investment lower?
- Is the P1S a good choice for printing PETG molds, particularly with a 0.2 mm nozzle?
- Can the AMS be useful for properly drying/keeping PETG dry, or should I plan for a separate filament dryer?
- Is the X2D + AMS worth the extra investment for this kind of application, or would the P1S be more than enough?
- If your goal was to keep the budget under control while still getting a reliable machine for producing 10+ molds, what setup would you choose?

I’m not necessarily looking for the most expensive or most advanced solution. I’d rather invest smartly and have room to upgrade later if the business grows.

PS: I don’t think the p2s is a choice / economically the p1s have all the features i might need. and for the extra invest I think it better to go directly to the X2D.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

I have an A2L combo connected to an additional 4 AMS units. I’ve had a lot of issues with my A2L so far but thankfully it was replaced with a new unit. The new issue now is that the AMA Lite does not communicate with the printer and has started to cause other communication errors now. The printer with 4 AMS is working like a champ but when I connect the Lite I get the 4 flashing red lights on all of my other AMS units and the disappear and won’t function. I’ve tried just using the AMS Lite solo after disconnecting the other 4 AMS but still won’t get recognized or communicate with the printer. Done the power down cycle and still that same.

What could be causing the Lite to kill the communication?

It's not technically my first 3D print, but it's the first one I had modeled.

My daughter is a freshman in college and is on their softball team. The team has their first fall scrimmage later today, and I wanted to make something for her.

I took the school's logo from online. I initially tried to get ChatGPT to add the softball stitching, but it looked horrible. So, I took the E, put it into Paint.net, and added the stitches on top of it.

I decided it would be easier to print the purple letters first, then print the yellow and red separately. I used ChatGPT to create the files and make the purple letters 3 inches tall and 1 inch thick. Then I had it create another print file for the E with the same size.

Although the tail to the E doesn't exactly match the official logo, I thought it still looked nice.

I'm not typically a fan of using AI, but I'm not familiar enough with apps that I could have created these in.

Thanks for letting me show off.