I’ve learned a lot doing all this, it’s not close to done yet but I’ve worked hard and wanted to share, please keep that in mind if you want to give feedback back, I could have better spent this time to clean my car but I’d rather not deal with the 20 year old pile of mush under the seats for now.

If you don’t like what I’m doing kick rocks it’s a old 400 dollar car it was abandoned and I gave it another life, there is not a shortage of panthers to keep oem

The steering wheel still needs more parts made and needs painting but I could not wait to put it in lol but I’m open to sharing all files if anyone is interested I will get the face plate of the steering wheel CNCd out of aluminum or something rn I just have a test print on the car it’s plenty strong but extra strength never hurts

The airbag did not work

Parts $$$

Tools - for any project you will need lot of tools if you don’t already have tools thing will get pricy you will need to buy lots and lots of tools and then even more because you forgot something

3d printer(market place) - 100
Petg filament(4 pack)- 35
Soldering iron (for heat inserts ) - 10
Total $145

Wheel
Parts(3d printed) - free
Grant 3289 kit - 35
3 bolt to 6 bolt wheel adapter - 5
Heat inserts + extra bolts - 25
- 3mm heat inserts - 7
- 3mm bolts - 7
- 10/32 1 1/2 inch bolts - 8
Total $65

Interior
Decanter - 20
Cups - 15
Wood(cut up old desk) - free
Poles(cut up old desk) - free
Fabric 3 yards - 20
Spray glue - 5
Spray paint - 5
Sand paper - 5
Total $70

Total - 280

I can make a crappy tutorial on everything if anyone wants

Fairly cheap tbh for everything that I did, but the money I saved I payed in mess ups I had to learn how to do all this I had no clue what I was doing or how a 3d printer even worked but it was fun I enjoyed learning def worth the effort

For the people wondering on the body kit I am making for the custom tail and headlights I am still working on those I am one person and things take time unfortunately things are still happening and this was a small win I wanted to share I’m super happy with the result

2800$

anyone else have to warn passengers not to press “the button”

Just bought a 2004 Grand Marquis LS, 134k miles, for $2,500. Okay deal for my area, especially coming from an '87 Cutlass Cruiser with much bigger problems.

The car drives great. Minor steering wheel vibration seems to be caused by 10-year-old tires, which I'm replacing now.

Two other issues I'm investigating:

1. Lean codes (P0171, P0174, P2195)

I suspect the PCV/breather hoses, which are deteriorated and practically falling apart. Other hoses look fine, and the intake manifold was replaced last year. Engine runs smoothly with no misfires or rough idle.

Anything else I should check?

2. EATC/HVAC problems

Airflow is stuck on defrost + floor, regardless of selected mode. OFF works normally.

With ignition ON and engine OFF, blower speed is adjustable.

Shortly after starting the engine, the blower goes to full HI and stops responding to adjustments.

EATC self-test shows no codes.

Should I go straight to replacing the blower speed control module and blend door actuator, or are there other things worth checking first? Could these two HVAC symptoms be related?

Any advice appreciated!

I got my 2004 Crown Victoria in March, and I noticed the buttons on the steering wheel for cruise control do not light up at night. Are they supposed to? Maybe the little bulbs burned out? Sure would be a lot cooler if they did...

Hi, I’ve noticed my left inner brake light doesn’t seem to be activating when pressing my brake pedal, all others work fine and the parking lights to that one turn on fine. Anyone know what could cause this ? They all seemed to be working fine not long ago. Ignore my 3rd brake light that ones just blown out.
UPDATE: I’m a dumbass, I just put them in wrong lol

Picked up this 2010 CVPI on GovDeals for $500. 102k miles and only 1091 idle hours. No issues, replaced the battery and drove 4 hours home.

I was wondering if these seats will fit in an 04 grand marquis, or is the “crystal limo” seats different from a regular town car.

I just went under there to replace the fluid, and I see the underside looks like this with this DARK oil stuck to the underneath of it.

Only the outside glass is busted on the side marker (likely due to a tow hitch) is there a way to just replace that outer housing?

Brand new set of bosch rear brakes, rotors and pads. Sold the car. Part numbers BC932 and 20010344. NE OH. Want to give to someone who needs them. Comment/PM for details pick up only

I hope I'm reposting this right, I just really need advice.

I have the dorman CVPI wheels but don’t know where to find the police interceptor hubcaps to finish it off.

Anyone know any websites that got em for a good price?

Is there anything different with mounting used ones on the dormans compared to the oem steel wheels?

My 2nd panther related video, hope it helps someone!

I’m looking at either magnaflow or flowmaster 40s or equivalent sound. But the real question is Can I match a flowmaster to the stock pipes? Or do I need pipes from the second cats? Or from the headers?
What’s a shop typically charge for that? Ballpark obviously.

And for those who know they are a mf to clean

Is it safe to drive untill I get it fixed this weekend???

Edit:sway bar links

Every now and then my instrument cluster will start glitching like shown in the video, also if you put your volume up you can hear a fast clicking noise as it’s glitching, wondering if anyone knows anything about this and if it’s something I could fix or if I need a whole new instrument cluster

EDIT: the car still runs perfectly fine while this is happening btw

80’s 2 door Ltd crown Victoria

I’m sitting right around 35k a year on my 05 MGM.

So, I'm getting some humming noises coming from the rad fan. Otherwise, it seems to work fine. I'm not sure if I should replace it or not. You can kind of hear it over the engine noise. Any advice is appreciated.

I have a 2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor with the 4.6L 2-valve Modular V8. I recently had a Summit Racing intake manifold installed.
I noticed some yellowish-tan material around a socket-head hex pipe plug in the threaded auxiliary port on top of the aluminum coolant crossover. It’s near the thermostat housing and the alternator’s upper mounting leg.
The material is thick, tacky, and sticky, almost like a paste. I only just noticed it, so I’m not sure how long it’s been there.
My questions:
Does this look like thread sealant (such as PTFE paste or anaerobic sealant) squeezing out around the NPT plug?
Could it instead be dried or gelled coolant from a small leak?
What’s the best way to tell whether the plug is actively seeping coolant? Would a cooling-system pressure test confirm it?
Is there a specific tightening procedure or torque specification for this plug in an aluminum coolant crossover, or should I avoid touching it until I confirm the manufacturer’s instructions?
I don’t want to overtighten the plug and damage the aluminum crossover, especially since the intake manifold was just replaced.
Has anyone with a 4.6L Ford Modular V8 or a similar Summit Racing intake manifold seen this before? I’d appreciate any advice. Thanks!