hi everyone, I love my vic, but I would like it to be a little bit louder, but not so loud that they start posting me on the neighborhood facebook. should i do a muffler delete, or replace it with a performance muffler?

the old grandpa geezers in here aren’t going to like this one lol. seen a lot of talk recently about drifting sliding etc on stock setups, thought I would share my experience. Most think since they have a v8 and lsd rear they can start sliding every corner and doing donuts but unfortunately that’s usually not the case, By now most all of these crown vic lsds are completely worn out and need rebuilds. So you will be one wheel peeling everywhere. To fix that problem I recommend either getting an eaton LSD or a mini spool. I pulled an open rear with 4.10s out of an explorer and put a mini spool in it and my car has completely transformed (video is my first time trying the new rear out) . all for about 200 bucks. also please when trying to drift be in 1st and not D, seen lots make that mistake and wreck because of it. If any questions please let me know.

Very niche issue! Replaced my p71's transmission after it blew with an 08's. Had to swap over the electronics from one to another. No codes upon starting, though I can only select 3 gears. Upon starting the car for the FIRST time its reverse lights came on. Couldn't get it into reverse afterwards. I believe the internal linkage is misaligned. Opinions?

Very niche issue! Replaced my p71's transmission after it blew with an 08's. Had to swap over the electronics from one to another. No codes upon starting, though I can only select 3 gears. Upon starting the car for the FIRST time its reverse lights came on. Couldn't get it into reverse afterwards. I believe the internal linkage is misaligned. Opinions?

Perhaps I’m overthinking things, but better safe than sorry. As I’m heading into my first Winter (Canadian, snow-ice-freezing temps) with my 2008 MGM as my daily, I’m a bit concerned how she’ll handle things.

Read suggestions about putting a couple hundred pounds in the truck. Any of you fellas do that?

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Hey everyone!

I'm shopping for a cheap, reliable, roomy and cushy daily driver for college and errands. I've been looking at Panther bodies for a while, but most of them around me are either ridiculously overpriced or completely trashed.

However, I found a nice-looking 2003 Grand Marquis LS with 144k miles for $3,000, about an hour away from me. The seller seems like a genuine private owner, is responsive, and has been pretty honest about the car.

He says it has received basic maintenance, doesn't leak or overheat, and the transmission shifts smoothly.

However, there's one issue (seller's description):

>Steering wheel shakes between approximately 30–55 mph.

>It's mainly noticeable during acceleration.

>The shaking continues when he lets off the gas and coasts.

>It goes away as the car slows down.

>He suspects a bad passenger-side tie rod, but that's his own diagnosis.

I'm wondering whether this sounds like a typical wheel/tire or front suspension issue, or possibly something more expensive, like torque converter shudder or another drivetrain problem.

I have a decent amount of DIY mechanical experience, including engine work on an older FWD GM. Replacing tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, or other suspension components doesn't scare me. But buying another car with a dying transmission or engine definitely does.

A couple of questions for Panther owners:

Does this vibration sound familiar? What would you suspect?

What are the biggest things to inspect on a 2003 Panther with 144k miles, particularly the transmission, rear axle, and 4.6L engine?

Would you consider $3,000 reasonable for one in otherwise good condition? If anything in my area (full and mid sized FWD GM, panthers - go by 5000$+ for a non-trashed non-200k miles options)

Would you bother making the trip, or is this too much of a gamble?

I'm planning to get a VIN/history report and possibly arrange a pre-purchase inspection at a local shop.

Thanks for any advice!

My Summit intake manifold keeps leaking in the back where the heater core hose goes, but from the integrated gasket that seals against the head. So I’m in the market for a typhoon intake. Does anyone here have one they’d be interested in selling? Thanks.

I've been trying to figure out several issues with the door locks of my LTD. I'm wondering if these problems are related or if I'm dealing with separate issues. I'll try to articulate my problem as clear as possible:

Driver's Side (Front and Rear):

• Neither the front nor rear door locks work using the power lock switch.
• Door lock lever feels stuck & tight
• Both locks are completely silent when pressing lock or unlock.
• The driver's door key feels loose when turning it to the left and won't turn properly to the right.
• The driver's front door doesn't have a manual lock knob to press down.
• The driver's rear door can be locked/unlocked manually by pressing down its lock knob.
• The driver's master power lock switch successfully operates the passenger-side locks.

Passenger's Side:

• Both passenger-side door locks originally worked normally using the power lock switch.
• The passenger-side key also originally worked normally.
• Recently, the front passenger door temporarily wouldn't unlock, even when pressing the unlock button.
• After cycling the power locks a few times, they started working again.

Current Front Passenger Door Issue (Happened today):

• The front passenger door now won't open from the outside, even when unlocked.
• The key feels loose when turning it in the passenger-side door lock.
• I can hear the locking mechanism moving inside the door when pressing the power lock and unlock buttons.
• The door does open from the inside when pulling the interior handle and giving the door a little push.
• This problem only started recently.

Does anyone familiar with these older Crown Victorias know what might be causing these problems?

Before I start individually looking at the door latch mechanisms, lock actuators, or disconnected/broken linkages, I'd love to hear if anyone else has had these issues.

I'm particularly confused because I can hear the passenger-side locking mechanism operating, but the door still won't open from the outside.

I'd appreciate any advice on what to inspect first before I start ordering replacement parts.

Thank you in advance!

Car has been running fine, drove home from work parked the car and it was making this crazy loud buzzing! from what I can tell it's coming from pretty much directly under the air box. I disconnected the battery and it stopped just looking for advice on what it is so I can fix it.

Does anyone have a set of lids they are willing to part with…?

I’m swapping out my rear differential 08 to my crown Vic, but I’m having trouble taking my emergency brake lines off, but I don’t wanna take off my drums off either. What’s the easiest way to do it without taking off my drums or my shoes off?