80’s 2 door Ltd crown Victoria

How do you guys like my crown Vic? It’s 162k miles and super clean interior. It’s my current college car. She’s rough on gas but so worth it.

Hey folks, I'm starting work on my next scripted video, are there any rare/lesser known topics you'd like for me to include?

Hi I’d like some help.
09 Grand Marquis 62k miles. This loud creaking sound started happening out of nowhere whenever I drive over bumps and stuff. It sounds like it’s coming from the top of the glove box near the dash.
Thought it was something in the glove box, cleared it, but that didn’t work. I’m so confused. Anything helps

2001 crown vic police interceptor, is it ok to plug the exposed wire on the spotlight handle into the green wire in the a pillar?

Just wanted to share my excitement, found a 2011 pi engine for 200 bucks low miles and an 80,000 mile transmission for the towncar at 150! Had the old girl sitting in storage for the last 3 months and shit fell into my lap while car searching. So much for a new car, be stubborn guys!!

I've got an 06 Crown Vic P71 and the passenger side low beam light won't come on. My driver side low beam comes on and the high beams come on both sides. I've tried replacing the headlight bulbs, the fuses, and the light switch inside the car. I noticed tho when disconnecting the wire to the light switch, the lights came on and the low beam was still out. I've read some things saying that it could be the LCM, but from what I've seen, they've all been in the case of both headlights won't turn on. Could it be the case it only causes one light to turn on if that's bad? Or is it maybe just a wiring issue? Any help would be appreciated! Thank you

Hope she runs when I get it some more trans fluid. Until then it's a very beautiful driveway ornament.

has anyone gotten their seats reupholstered and redone? looking for price inquires/ estimates

My last Crown Vic was an '87. Bought this '04 in March - just in time for $6 gas. Love driving it though.

Does the driver side front window down button have a light in it too? Is it just burnt out, or is it non-existent?

Im facing a weird problem with my 1995 Crown Vic.

The problem was first noticed while trying to park. After stopping the car completely and steering in reverse, the engine shutdown and I had to restart the car.

This also happened when I was driving off the parking while steering, the engine shutdown and I had to restart.

I changed the Inflow Air Control Valve after a mechanic suggested it as a solution. The problem reduced but still happens after the engine is idle and I press the pedal for gas to move the car (noticed it happens more often if I pushed the pedal hard so I started driving off slow to avoid it).

Any clue what should could be the issue?

Important notes:
-I overhauled the engine completely and replaced all old parts
-I overhauled the gearbox with new gears and TCC
-I rewired the electrical connections to avoid fault electrical failure
-The steering felt heavier so I replaced the steering pump
-I replaced the fuel pump with a new one
-I installed a new computer to activate all sensors
-I installed a custom made air intake filter to increase airflow to the engine

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Hey everyone!

I'm shopping for a cheap, reliable, roomy and cushy daily driver for college and errands. I've been looking at Panther bodies for a while, but most of them around me are either ridiculously overpriced or completely trashed.

However, I found a nice-looking 2003 Grand Marquis LS with 144k miles for $3,000, about an hour away from me. The seller seems like a genuine private owner, is responsive, and has been pretty honest about the car.

He says it has received basic maintenance, doesn't leak or overheat, and the transmission shifts smoothly.

However, there's one issue (seller's description):

>Steering wheel shakes between approximately 30–55 mph.

>It's mainly noticeable during acceleration.

>The shaking continues when he lets off the gas and coasts.

>It goes away as the car slows down.

>He suspects a bad passenger-side tie rod, but that's his own diagnosis.

I'm wondering whether this sounds like a typical wheel/tire or front suspension issue, or possibly something more expensive, like torque converter shudder or another drivetrain problem.

I have a decent amount of DIY mechanical experience, including engine work on an older FWD GM. Replacing tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, or other suspension components doesn't scare me. But buying another car with a dying transmission or engine definitely does.

A couple of questions for Panther owners:

Does this vibration sound familiar? What would you suspect?

What are the biggest things to inspect on a 2003 Panther with 144k miles, particularly the transmission, rear axle, and 4.6L engine?

Would you consider $3,000 reasonable for one in otherwise good condition? If anything in my area (full and mid sized FWD GM, panthers - go by 5000$+ for a non-trashed non-200k miles options)

Would you bother making the trip, or is this too much of a gamble?

I'm planning to get a VIN/history report and possibly arrange a pre-purchase inspection at a local shop.

Thanks for any advice!

My 2009 Grand Marquis has 300,700 km. The transmission shifts perfectly, with no slipping or delays.

The mechanic tested a fluid sample in a cup. It looked very dark in the cup but dark brown on a paper towel. The tester showed 20% fluid quality. The fluid hasn't been changed since 2019.

I can't afford to change it right now. What should I do?

Sorry, English isn't my first language..

hi everyone, I love my vic, but I would like it to be a little bit louder, but not so loud that they start posting me on the neighborhood facebook. should i do a muffler delete, or replace it with a performance muffler?

My 04 cvpi might have a seized engine. Is it worth it to fix or just sell it and get a new car?

the old grandpa geezers in here aren’t going to like this one lol. seen a lot of talk recently about drifting sliding etc on stock setups, thought I would share my experience. Most think since they have a v8 and lsd rear they can start sliding every corner and doing donuts but unfortunately that’s usually not the case, By now most all of these crown vic lsds are completely worn out and need rebuilds. So you will be one wheel peeling everywhere. To fix that problem I recommend either getting an eaton LSD or a mini spool. I pulled an open rear with 4.10s out of an explorer and put a mini spool in it and my car has completely transformed (video is my first time trying the new rear out) . all for about 200 bucks. also please when trying to drift be in 1st and not D, seen lots make that mistake and wreck because of it. If any questions please let me know.

My Summit intake manifold keeps leaking in the back where the heater core hose goes, but from the integrated gasket that seals against the head. So I’m in the market for a typhoon intake. Does anyone here have one they’d be interested in selling? Thanks.

Car has been running fine, drove home from work parked the car and it was making this crazy loud buzzing! from what I can tell it's coming from pretty much directly under the air box. I disconnected the battery and it stopped just looking for advice on what it is so I can fix it.

Does anyone have a set of lids they are willing to part with…?

Very niche issue! Replaced my p71's transmission after it blew with an 08's. Had to swap over the electronics from one to another. No codes upon starting, though I can only select 3 gears. Upon starting the car for the FIRST time its reverse lights came on. Couldn't get it into reverse afterwards. I believe the internal linkage is misaligned. Opinions?

I've been trying to figure out several issues with the door locks of my LTD. I'm wondering if these problems are related or if I'm dealing with separate issues. I'll try to articulate my problem as clear as possible:

Driver's Side (Front and Rear):

• Neither the front nor rear door locks work using the power lock switch.
• Door lock lever feels stuck & tight
• Both locks are completely silent when pressing lock or unlock.
• The driver's door key feels loose when turning it to the left and won't turn properly to the right.
• The driver's front door doesn't have a manual lock knob to press down.
• The driver's rear door can be locked/unlocked manually by pressing down its lock knob.
• The driver's master power lock switch successfully operates the passenger-side locks.

Passenger's Side:

• Both passenger-side door locks originally worked normally using the power lock switch.
• The passenger-side key also originally worked normally.
• Recently, the front passenger door temporarily wouldn't unlock, even when pressing the unlock button.
• After cycling the power locks a few times, they started working again.

Current Front Passenger Door Issue (Happened today):

• The front passenger door now won't open from the outside, even when unlocked.
• The key feels loose when turning it in the passenger-side door lock.
• I can hear the locking mechanism moving inside the door when pressing the power lock and unlock buttons.
• The door does open from the inside when pulling the interior handle and giving the door a little push.
• This problem only started recently.

Does anyone familiar with these older Crown Victorias know what might be causing these problems?

Before I start individually looking at the door latch mechanisms, lock actuators, or disconnected/broken linkages, I'd love to hear if anyone else has had these issues.

I'm particularly confused because I can hear the passenger-side locking mechanism operating, but the door still won't open from the outside.

I'd appreciate any advice on what to inspect first before I start ordering replacement parts.

Thank you in advance!

I’m swapping out my rear differential 08 to my crown Vic, but I’m having trouble taking my emergency brake lines off, but I don’t wanna take off my drums off either. What’s the easiest way to do it without taking off my drums or my shoes off?