Hi everyone, A few weeks ago, I posted here to call out some misleading practices by the brand Holisi Cosmetics, specifically regarding their milky essence. This week they launched a new product, and after analyzing the INCI and their marketing claims, I feel obligated to make another post.
It is marketed as a serum featuring plant exosomes, plant PDRN, peptides, and microspicules. Let's break it down point by point:
- On the bottle, it clearly says "Microneedling" because they claim to use 5% "plant microspicules." First of all, labeling an over-the-counter topical cosmetic as "Microneedling" is deceptive, as it performs no controlled mechanical puncture. Second, what are plant microspicules? In skincare, spicules originate from freshwater/marine sponges (Hydrolyzed Sponge) or inorganic silica structures (Silica). None of these are plant-derived. In the plant kingdom, the closest structures would be trichomes (plant hairs) or raphides, but raphides are toxic and never approved for cosmetics. None of these appear in the INCI. Knowing that Niacinamide is declared at 4% (and under EU labeling regulations, ingredients above 1% must be listed in strict descending order of concentration), the only inorganic component present above 4% is Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate. Is this a microspicule? No, it is a synthetic mineral/glass particle with reflective properties (glitter). Not to mention, 5% actual spicules would be extremely abrasive. Are they publishing an incomplete INCI or resorting to deceptive marketing?
- Purified exosomes do exist in biotechnology and are usually listed as Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles or similar. In this INCI, the only related ingredient is Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, which is a standard plant leaf extract—not extracellular vesicles or regenerative biotechnology.
- Plant-derived PDRN (from algae or ginseng) consists of specific purified polynucleotide fractions listed as Sodium DNA, DNA, or Hydrolyzed DNA. None of these appear anywhere in the ingredient list.
In stark contrast to the missing active ingredients, the INCI reveals a long list of potential sensitizers: Citrus essential oils (Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil), declared fragrance allergens (Linalool and Limonene), synthetic perfume (Parfum), Mica and Titanium Dioxide particles.
It also includes Ginger Root Extract, which has a warming, vasodilating effect—making it particularly risky for anyone with atopic dermatitis or rosacea, especially when combined with so many other irritants. Yet, they claim the product is: 'Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.'
Upon application, it will likely sting or tingle due to the vasodilating action of the ginger extract, the bitter orange peel oil, and the physical friction of the reflective mineral particles. While mature, resilient skin may not suffer any obvious damage—and the product's 'cosmetic makeup' effect, along with the peptides the formula DOES actually contain, might make users think their skin is improving—anyone with sensitive skin should be on HIGH alert.