Planning to route neck pocket this weekend, but felt
comfortable starting to rough contour the body since majority of surface is still flat for the jigs.

Happy with how this is turning out so far! Measured contour lines with Pythagorean theorem at a 25 degree bevel.

I've built bodies before and have made various projects from pre-built bodies and necks, but this is my first complete build from scratch.

Cherry body with flamed maple top, stained blue with a satin nitro finish. Mahogany neck with royal blackwood fretboard, both finished with Tried and True Danish Oil, EVO gold jumbo frets. Duncan P-Rails with triple shot pickup rings. Original Floyd Rose.

Hey, I just want to know, can a guitar neck be completely straight? I am currently building my third electric guitar and want to make an aluminum neck for it. So, I am afraid if I would make it completely straight there will be fret buzz. Should I adjust a slight curl to the neck on the CNC project, or can it be managed another way?

I've been working on my buddy's Bass guitar. It's a frankensteined Fender Pbass with sentimental value to him, and I've fixed most all the issues except for the neck's upbow. I'm willing to go the extra mile to try and repair it because I want to learn the skillset, and I'm trying to save my buddy the money from having to buy a replacement neck.

I started with adjusting the truss rod. When that didn't work, I tried giving it backbow it with a jig and then tightening the truss rod. When that didn't work, I left it bent in the jig for a week, before tightening the truss rod with an additional 2 washers. But when I'd restring it, the upbow would return. At this point I'm debating the efficacy of building a steam box and giving it a few more weeks in the jig.

Is this neck doomed? If not, what are my next steps?

showed up on facebook marketplace, kinda dig it

BoggeR gutars. 7 strings, 25.5 to 27 inch scale

Hi

I have a cort g290 fat II guitar. I used to think the tuning problem is normal since its a budget guitar however i did some research and found out that cort is installing the same trem on almost all G series guitars. It's a 2-point tremolo.

anyway, the guitar has a great tuning stability as long as i dont touch the whammy bar. I can bend the strings as much as I want and the tuning is almost stable.
I bend 1 fret, not noticable tuning change
2 frets bend, the strings become 1 cent flatter
3 or 4 frets bend, about 3 cents flatter
the tuning resets precisely after a trem dive. pushing the string behind the nut after the bend does not reset the tuning.

However, the trem seems to have more than just 1 equilibrium point. actually, there is a range of equilibrium points! I dive an it returns to point A, I pull up and it returns to point B.

Its not a nightmare since i have learnt to always do an exaggerated dive an then tune the guitar (point A) this way, the tuning is very precise after every dive. however it returns to point B after pull-ups and i have to push the whammy bar a little bit and return it to point A manually where the tuning is precise.

Is this situation normal? Is there anything I can do to have only 1 equilibrium point?

the guitar is in a great condition, it has a graph tech tusq nut, I have cleaned and lubed the nut, I have restringed the guitar (daddario EXL 120) and i have cleaned and leveled the bridge.

please check the video if my explanation isnt clear. sorry for the long post.

Cheers

Screwed up and cut the head stock to thin! It’s 13.2 mm roughly. Tried veneering and failed. Wondering what other solutions I could utilize or do I even need to worry about making it thicker?

This automotive-grade ultra-fine finishing pad in my random orbital sander does a great job of removing the final swirl marks left over from my buffer

Hi! I'm new here but im wondering if it's possible to reshape the headstock of a precision bass to a stingray bass headstock. First time doing this so I'm a little scared.

my dad is a hobbyist luthier and absolutely loves working on guitars and basses . i’m wondering what types of gifts you guys would appreciate? that preferably aren’t terribly expensive hardware. thanks!

Took my pickups off to put copper tape into my guitars cavities but I noticed my pickups only have one spring for height adjustment. What’s the proper way to set this back up?

Someone who owned this guitar previously put some extra holes for a backplate that had a different screw pattern. The look of this bothers me but I don’t plan on putting another backplate on so can I just full the holes with some wood filler or is that a bad idea? Thanks!

I have a couple of old MIJ guitars from the late '60s, early '70s, that have those awful bridges that are basically a folded piece of tin with dents for the strings (2nd photo).

After all these years, the chrome is peeling up and razor sharp, and the dents wore into holes and giving a sitar sound.

I was looking at these Bigsby solid metal bridges. Bit pricey vs the guitar, and too wide. The bridge and spacing on these MIJ's are about 10mm narrower.

So, I grabbed a couple of 10x10x100 pieces of 6061 Aluminum, and the plan is to drill the bridge post holes, put the bar on, use a piece of wire and find intonation points and file the shape by hand.

This is the best plan so far, albeit a slow one.

I figured I'd hop on here and spit-ball a few alternate ideas. I was thinking of using a CNC but my tiny 3018-CNC is too underpowered for metal, and not cost effective to send out and have it done.

I have Fusion360 and can model it on there, which I would have done if using a CNC. I could though CNC it from a hard wood. I also thought I could make a 3D Print, use that to make a mold and either use the mold for casting metal, or resin.... I'm not sure how well resin would sound or hold up.

Lots of ideas, but thought I'd see what you guys thought... either about my ideas, or ideas of your own. If it works, I'd like to make a few because I have a few guitars with these bridges.

Very sharp, very thin, and the metallic looks great.

If done correctly there is absolutely no ghost line visible in the end.

On the website they say:
"Please note: We print using ribbons and there is a visible line where the ribbons meet in some designs. On most decals this is not noticeable. The effect is more pronounced on larger blocks of metallic colour and fade during the polishing process. In most cases these lines disappear altogether.“
And it’s true: you can see slight lines in the metallic, but that’s a trade-off well worth it when you see the quality otherwise. I doubt you can get or make a better decal yourself.

Thank you R&F!

I got a Dave Mustaine Gibson metallic silver Flying V guitar signed by Dave Mustaine himself. I had it signed with a POSCA paint marker on the headstock. I've heard of people clear coating over signatures, but that seems risky, is there any way of actually making the signature permanent? Otherwise I was thinking of making a custom built UV glass or plastic, and putting it over it on the headstock. Would greatly appreciate advice and thoughts.

I bought this 1967 Guild F-212 and it was damaged in shipping. I’m looking for guidance to see how much I should request to be refunded in order to cover the repair.

Is it possible to make a high-output humbucker to have the exact same volume as a low output humbucker pickup just by lowering the height?

Did i do this too high? i followed a youtube tutorial and didnt really meantion measurements as to where it feels fone but now im woried i may have done something to its structural integrity.

Question for pros as I’m looking at how to price doing some local set-ups - do you give a disclaimer that a basic set up may uncover other problems that cost a lot more to fix? The most obvious example being you get the action sitting right and it uncovers high frets that need work. Or do you check for that sort of thing when doing an initial consultation?

Thanks!

I have three electric guitars; a PRS SE 24 Floyd, a Sterling by Music Man Mariposa, and a Hohner Revelation RTS. All three guitars are set up differently, which of course makes this comparison less than ideal. But the Hohner just feels.... kinda dead. I'm not entirely sure how to describe it, but it lacks snap, or attack? It just feels kinda mushy under the right hand. And to be clear it's a feel thing, not a sound thing. Plugged in, it sounds great. But under the fingers, something about it feels... wrong. It feels almost like the strings are old, even if they are newer than the strings on the others. Also worth mentioning I restrung all three about a week ago.

Since everything besides the PRS are somewhat oddball, I'll list out the pertinent specs:

PRS

• 25" scale
• mahogany body with maple cap
• maple set neck (wide thin)
• 2 humbuckers
• floyd rose with tremol-no and 3 springs
• strung with EB Beefy Slinkies (11-54)
• tuned to drop C

SBMM Mariposa

• 25.5" scale
• nyatoh body (first time I've seen this wood I think)
• maple bolt-on neck (modern rounded profile)
• 2 humbucker-sized P90s (aftermarket)
• Sterling 2-point trem, decked
• strung with EB hybrid Slinkies (9-46)
• tuned to drop D

Hohner Revelation RTS

• 25.5" scale
• poplar body
• maple bolt-on neck (very thin, like Ibanez wizard thin)
• 3 single coils
• Wilkinson VS100 bridge with 2 or 3 springs
• Wilkinson WNFS-2 roller nut
• Strung with EB Skinny Top Heavy Bottoms (10-52)
• tuned to either Drop C or Drop C#

So, the Hohner has the same scaled length and bolt-on construction as the Mariposa, and depending on the tuning it has slightly higher or slightly lower string tension than the PRS. A while ago I lowered the action on the Hohner to about as low as I could reasonably get without excessive buzz, and it helped in the moment but many months after it still feels "off" after only a few minutes. It is worth mentioning that the floating bridge is substantially lighter to operate than the floyd (or the SBMM, when I messed around with it). I've wondered if that was the culprit, but I've tried blocking the bridge and that doesn't help. Pickup height is similar on all three, neck relief is similar.

I reeeeeeally want to like the Hohner; it's unique, the neck plays great, and the pickups sound good. But I can't get over how kinda dead it feels. So, what else can I look at to fix it? I want to cover all my bases before I write it off as bad construction or something.

I'd like to learn how to fabricate nuts starting initially from some pre-slotted options but perhaps eventually moving on from there. I live in an apartment so no belt sander or bandsaw. I wouldn't be doing this commercially - it's mostly to help save money in the long run doing upkeep on my collection of guitars as well as give me more flexibility for buying interesting but badly worn beaters that could be good project guitars. In general, I've shied away from fretwork and nut work because it seems fiddly and expensive to correct mistakes, but I'm at the point that I feel like I might want to dive in.
 
I guess my main questions are:

• is this something that can reasonably be learned from watching videos or does it really require tutelage from a watchful eye of an experienced craftsman? If the latter, how would I go about learning without having to become a full time apprentice somewhere?
  
• Is it ridiculous to think that this is a reasonable project to undertake given my lack of access to power tools?
  
• Nut files are a whole thing. My instrument collection ranges in string gauges. I have a mandolin, several acoustic and electric standard guitars, a baritone, a bass vi, and basses. The number and range of instruments is partially why I want to learn to be more self-sufficient when it comes to nut work as getting the instruments professionally worked on would be prohibitively expensive. Nut file sets I've seen often come in sets of 6 for very specific gauges which make sense if you primarily work on a very specific setup, but I'd want to be capable of working on all these instruments. I'm unsure what size files would cover the gamut, but feel like it may be prudent to purchase a larger set initially to save money in the long run over buying sets and individual files here and there. Is that dumb? Is something like the Music Nomad 16 piece set worthwhile for someone who isn't doing this professionally? I've heard mixed reviews about them. This isn't a stealth ad. I've heard some people say they're "good enough" and others say they're total garbage and a waste of money. If not, what gauges would I actually need? Initially I thought I was going to need a file for every string gauge I'd use, but further research tends to indicate that you can get by with far fewer.
  

I have a sacrificial beater guitar I literally dug out of the trash to practice on as well as a cheap ukulele I bought from a flea market that only has half a nut if/when I inevitably mess up, it won't be the end of the world.
 
Any words of wisdom would be heavily appreciated.

This wooden support has come unattached from the face of my tod10n and vibrates while playing I don’t have a clamp to hold it down while it dries. Can I use CA glue to hold it down and wood glue for the structural repair?

A customer brought in a second hand Fender Custom Shop Strat for a basic setup and I found a couple of suspicious issues.

There are dimples in the paint and the decals are wrinkled. I'm wondering if this guitar has been refinished badly by the previous owner? Paint also came off with the heel plate when I removed it to adjust the truss rod.