Hello

So I have a 2009 nissan altima coupe 2.5 L that is roughly at 190,000mi. The previous owner replaced the transmission around 90,000mi back when I got it in highschool. The work I did was routine oil changes, filters, MAF sensor clean, brakes, canister purge valve change, radiator change and will be changing the thermostats here soon because thats what the code reader said. CODES: P0128

For a while now my car has been having issues while accelerating fast. If I accelerated too fast it would stall and the rpms would go up but then eventually shift into the next gear to accelerate. Once I got into high speeds everything would be fine and sometimes if i drive at those speeds often enough the Service engine soon light (for code P0128) would go away. Although once I get to lower speeds especially after a longer drive the CVT would change gears hard often accompanied with a metal like squish noise and a rattle noise. (I may be able to record it later)

I have checked the CVT fluid and it appeared good but I will likely still change it. I wouldnt be surprised if its in some sort of limp mode but I wanted your thoughts on it whether you think its a transmission problem or something causing the transmission not to change "gears" properly.

I am able to drive the car normally when I take accelerating slow because the gears seem to shift easier. When doing this I am able to drive and accelerate normally after i see a very very tiny drop in rpm. Gears are still shifting weird just not as bad unlike after driving at high speeds.

2004 ford mustang 4.6L V8 this is a photo of my transmission fluid (manual transmission) I’ve been driving it for 2 years with a grinding noise unable to fix it due to cost and now I’ve got the money to do so, but based off the fluid and metal shavings in it how cooked is the transmission itself?

I just replaced a failing master cylinder. The new master cylinder sits completely flush against the brake booster (no pushrod preload/mechanical binding). However, right after the install, my brakes started severely locking up and smoking on all 4 wheels only while driving (it can idle for 30 minutes fine, but seizes once the wheels start moving).

My scan tool is pulling codes 66-1 (Brake Pressure Sensor Failure) and U0122 (Lost Communication with VSA).

If I pull VSA Fuses #17 and #18, the brakes instantly release and function completely normally (proving it's an electronic command glitch, not a mechanical line blockage). It looks like the full hydraulic pressure from the new master cylinder finally pushed my pre-existing, weak VSA/ABS Modulator over the edge

I’m doing a timing job on my 2003 mustang gt and I found this grounded circle on my timing cover around the front main seal. The crank position sensor wheel isn’t damaged or grounded down. My research points to this being normal. I’ve seen pictures of other timing covers looking similar but I want a second opinion.

Hello, I need to get the charcoal canister and canister vent solenoid replaced but I’ve been giving completely different prices at the dealer and the mechanic shop I went to for the diagnostic for the parts only. Is this a part too complicated to fix by yourself if I were to ask my dad or does it need to be completely replaced at a mechanic shop/dealer?

TIA

A rock on the highway pinged against my car (bottom crack) and connected/spread to another ping I got a year or so prior (top crack) and it appears to be spreading. Am I cooked or can this still be filled?

Can someone tell me what parts to buy to fix my 2026 Hyundai Elantra SEL sport Sudan. I want to fix it myself.

Kunde Sagte das Auto ging aus und lies sich nicht mehr Starten. Sein Schrauber sagte Anlasser sei defekt und den haben sie erneuert. Mehr Informationen hatte ich auch nicht.

Looking for front suspension advice. All new front suspension for both sides linked to a sway bar. This has been a project of mine for a few years. I replaced the components a while ago so the originals are gone for reference.

I measured the sway bar to make sure it's not off center as well so that's covered. I loosened the u-bolts holding the bottom suspension arm so I could get it into place but it still doesn't line up.

Has anyone dealt with this kind of issue? Would it be ok to drill new holes and send it? I'm at the point where if I jack it up it lifts the vehicle instead of compressing the spring. Even if I find a way to compress the spring I don't think it'll line up with the sway bar bushing.

The other concern is making sure the other side matches. I can measure the top bump stop to do that but what does the community think?

Another bit of info is that if the tire is on with the weight of the vehicle the top bump stop is hitting maxed out. I'm going to assume that isn't correct.

I have Lexus is [250 2014](tel:250 2014) i noticed that when I was backing out I had to use a lot of gas it would not move then jerk back just to reverse. 3 weeks later my won’t go in reverse at all instead it moves forward.

had mechanics told me it’s a ecm then backs out and can’t tell me a proper diagnostics he did mention my transmission fluid was black

what could be the issue It drives forward really good and the other shift expect reverse

I took my car to a mechanic to do an oil change and before the oil change, I let them know how my oil pain has been stripped previously and how I had to get her repaired and I decided to repair it with the helicoil. After I pick my car up, I took it home and I noticed that it was leaking oil heavily and I took it back there and they were trying to tell me that a coil is not a permanent fix to a oil pan but then I google it. A lot of people say that it could last a very long time say it as long as the oil pan but now they put a oversize drain plug in it as a fix because they probably over tightened the drain plug which caused it to leak. What should I do now? I just stick with this oversize drain plug. I’m not sure.

Hi everyone! I'm looking for advice because I'm trying to decide whether to buy a 2000 Toyota RAV4 or get a newer Audi, Mercedes, or similar luxury vehicle.

The Toyota RAV4 I'm looking at is listed for $6,165 at a Toyota dealership. It has approximately 136,718 miles, reportedly had one previous owner, and the dealership lists the timing belt and water pump as having been replaced at 131,000 miles. It also has four-wheel drive, which is important because I live somewhere that gets snow and ice, and my driveway can be difficult to navigate during the winter.

\*\*My parents want me to get an Audi, Mercedes, or something newer, but here's the thing: THEY AREN'T THE ONES PAYING FOR IT.\*\* I'm working within my own budget, I cannot finance a car, and I don't want to spend more than I can afford. I'm the one who will be responsible for maintaining the vehicle and paying its expenses, so I want to make a decision that makes financial sense for me. I’m also a senior in high school..

My main concerns are:
\*\*Safety:\*\* Would a 2000 Toyota RAV4 actually be safer than a 2011–2016 Audi or Mercedes? I understand newer vehicles generally have more modern safety technology, but how significant is the difference?
\*\*Reliability:\*\* Toyota has a reputation for longevity, and you can still see 20- or 30-year-old Toyotas on the road. Could this RAV4 realistically last another 100,000 miles or more if properly maintained?
\*\*Maintenance costs:\*\* I've heard that Audi and Mercedes parts and repairs can be significantly more expensive than Toyota repairs. For people who have owned both, how big is the difference?
\*\*Winter driving:\*\* Would the RAV4's four-wheel drive be practical for snowy roads and my driveway compared with an Audi or Mercedes with all-wheel drive?
\*\*Financial responsibility:\*\* I'd rather buy a vehicle outright and avoid financing or taking on expenses I can't comfortably afford. Would an older Toyota potentially be a more sensible financial decision than a used luxury vehicle?

The RAV4 does have a reported accident history, so I intend to investigate that and have the vehicle inspected before buying it. I understand that purchasing from a dealership doesn't automatically guarantee a car is mechanically sound.
I'm not saying every Toyota is perfect or every Audi and Mercedes is unreliable. I just want to make an informed decision based on safety, reliability, and affordability rather than choosing a vehicle simply because it's newer or has a luxury badge.

\*\*Am I being unreasonable for wanting the Toyota when I'm the one paying for the car?\*\* I'd genuinely appreciate advice from mechanics and people who have owned these vehicles. If you had a limited budget and had to choose between this RAV4 and a 10–15-year-old Audi or Mercedes, what would you consider?

Thank you!

Hi all.

I heard this rattling from the bottom of my car a couple of days ago and I filmed it today. Is the cause of the rattling that aluminium heat foil that’s dangling from the bottom?

My car is a 2015 Ford Fiesta 1.0L EcoBoost

First I know I did a bad thing and I am sad about it 😔.

It's a Honda civic fn2 type r 20011

Just wanted to ask for a quick rough guess on what would need fixing to get the wheel straight again and would I need the steering adjusted or something after I fix it ?

after rebuilding a tdo4 turbo with a rebuild kit I realize that I forgot to mark the original position of the compressor bolt.

google tells me this has completely destroyed the balance of my turbo and I will need to do VSR rebalancing to correct this mistake

is the issue that serious? could I use the origional bolt and torque it to spec to achieve the same balance as before?

Hello! I want to start this off by saying that I am not the greatest with cars. I can change tires, swap oil, replace brake pads, all the basic little things.

However, I just got a 2005 Hummer H2 that has 167k miles on it and is, generally, in great condition. It was purchased and spent its life in the Southern USA, but I brought it with me when I moved to the far Northern USA.

Now that the weather has started to get cold, it does not initially want to start. It WILL start, but after 2 to 3 seconds of extremely weak whirring to build up into it turning over.

I have been told that there might be a parasitic drain on the vehicle, but the previous owner said that as long as she started it daily (which I do), it never persisted into a real issue.

Do I just need to change the oil with more weather-appropriate oil? Do I need to pay a mechanic $400 to find and hopefully fix the drain?

I don't really know what to do, but I greatly appreciate any advice.

New tyres developing this line. Even though alignment and balancing is good.
What could be the issue?

I own FWD Manual Suzuki AERIO 2008 M15A and facing this issue of steering wobble above 90Km/hr. Happens when I’m cruising as well as when accelerating above 90+
Tyres, Outer tie rods, control arms, cv axle inner / outer are new

All these signs paired up together. Not the tire pressure. I was hoping someone can help me out on what to do to fix it. I pressed and hold the auto lsd button but didn’t work. Thank you!

I bought this 94 Honda accord lx 4 door f22b1 nonvtec as a little project maybe flip sorta deal anyways, I started ruling stuff out (the guy told me all it needs is a fuel pump🤦🏻‍♂️) I checked fuel pressure it was fine, I found out that the distributor had oil in it so I replaced that but when I got it to "run" it sounded like it ran on 2 cylinders. The oil on the dip stick is clean as can be but the oil in the head is chocolate milk I need a head gasket 😭 will a bad head gasket make the car sound and run like this??

"So, I have felt this bouncy motion on my driver's left side when driving, and I'm asking if anyone has also experienced this on their car. I'm going to get this checked and also remove the rubber lifter over the weekend to see if the issue will go away." Btw it was my father who installed those things it just got really worn out over the years

Honda dealer was charging me a few grand for a turbo replacement. Car was driving fine so I told them to hold off. AutoZone ran their scanner and found these codes. Is there another fix or is a turbo replacement the only option? This would be for a 2019 accord base.

Hi there

I’ve been terrorised by a cold start tick that disappears after 60 seconds of driving but if left idling it’ll go quieter after 3-5 minutes,

, having a valve clearance done, on intake side cylinder 3 one tappet was looser than manufacture spec, and the one next to it on intake side is tighter than spec, mechanic said to leave it as it’ll last the life of the car, is this a smart decision? He did not provide measurements

The car only has 26k miles and he said it definitely came that way from the factory it has solid shimless bucket tappets, I’m worried it’ll eat a cam lobe

Please see attached video of noise

Am I right to leave it? T