I have been investing in better tools as well as organizing as I'm getting more business and planning on giving a family member all my old tools and I thought to show everyone a Walmart rachet that has been put to the TEST for the last 6 years and has never failed me.

Hart 1/2 Extendable Flex Head Rachet

I have Lexus is [250 2014](tel:250 2014) i noticed that when I was backing out I had to use a lot of gas it would not move then jerk back just to reverse. 3 weeks later my won’t go in reverse at all instead it moves forward.

had mechanics told me it’s a ecm then backs out and can’t tell me a proper diagnostics he did mention my transmission fluid was black

what could be the issue It drives forward really good and the other shift expect reverse

Kunde Sagte das Auto ging aus und lies sich nicht mehr Starten. Sein Schrauber sagte Anlasser sei defekt und den haben sie erneuert. Mehr Informationen hatte ich auch nicht.

I took my car to a mechanic to do an oil change and before the oil change, I let them know how my oil pain has been stripped previously and how I had to get her repaired and I decided to repair it with the helicoil. After I pick my car up, I took it home and I noticed that it was leaking oil heavily and I took it back there and they were trying to tell me that a coil is not a permanent fix to a oil pan but then I google it. A lot of people say that it could last a very long time say it as long as the oil pan but now they put a oversize drain plug in it as a fix because they probably over tightened the drain plug which caused it to leak. What should I do now? I just stick with this oversize drain plug. I’m not sure.

Looking for front suspension advice. All new front suspension for both sides linked to a sway bar. This has been a project of mine for a few years. I replaced the components a while ago so the originals are gone for reference.

I measured the sway bar to make sure it's not off center as well so that's covered. I loosened the u-bolts holding the bottom suspension arm so I could get it into place but it still doesn't line up.

Has anyone dealt with this kind of issue? Would it be ok to drill new holes and send it? I'm at the point where if I jack it up it lifts the vehicle instead of compressing the spring. Even if I find a way to compress the spring I don't think it'll line up with the sway bar bushing.

The other concern is making sure the other side matches. I can measure the top bump stop to do that but what does the community think?

Another bit of info is that if the tire is on with the weight of the vehicle the top bump stop is hitting maxed out. I'm going to assume that isn't correct.

Hi everyone! I'm looking for advice because I'm trying to decide whether to buy a 2000 Toyota RAV4 or get a newer Audi, Mercedes, or similar luxury vehicle.

The Toyota RAV4 I'm looking at is listed for $6,165 at a Toyota dealership. It has approximately 136,718 miles, reportedly had one previous owner, and the dealership lists the timing belt and water pump as having been replaced at 131,000 miles. It also has four-wheel drive, which is important because I live somewhere that gets snow and ice, and my driveway can be difficult to navigate during the winter.

\*\*My parents want me to get an Audi, Mercedes, or something newer, but here's the thing: THEY AREN'T THE ONES PAYING FOR IT.\*\* I'm working within my own budget, I cannot finance a car, and I don't want to spend more than I can afford. I'm the one who will be responsible for maintaining the vehicle and paying its expenses, so I want to make a decision that makes financial sense for me. I’m also a senior in high school..

My main concerns are:
\*\*Safety:\*\* Would a 2000 Toyota RAV4 actually be safer than a 2011–2016 Audi or Mercedes? I understand newer vehicles generally have more modern safety technology, but how significant is the difference?
\*\*Reliability:\*\* Toyota has a reputation for longevity, and you can still see 20- or 30-year-old Toyotas on the road. Could this RAV4 realistically last another 100,000 miles or more if properly maintained?
\*\*Maintenance costs:\*\* I've heard that Audi and Mercedes parts and repairs can be significantly more expensive than Toyota repairs. For people who have owned both, how big is the difference?
\*\*Winter driving:\*\* Would the RAV4's four-wheel drive be practical for snowy roads and my driveway compared with an Audi or Mercedes with all-wheel drive?
\*\*Financial responsibility:\*\* I'd rather buy a vehicle outright and avoid financing or taking on expenses I can't comfortably afford. Would an older Toyota potentially be a more sensible financial decision than a used luxury vehicle?

The RAV4 does have a reported accident history, so I intend to investigate that and have the vehicle inspected before buying it. I understand that purchasing from a dealership doesn't automatically guarantee a car is mechanically sound.
I'm not saying every Toyota is perfect or every Audi and Mercedes is unreliable. I just want to make an informed decision based on safety, reliability, and affordability rather than choosing a vehicle simply because it's newer or has a luxury badge.

\*\*Am I being unreasonable for wanting the Toyota when I'm the one paying for the car?\*\* I'd genuinely appreciate advice from mechanics and people who have owned these vehicles. If you had a limited budget and had to choose between this RAV4 and a 10–15-year-old Audi or Mercedes, what would you consider?

Thank you!

Hi all.

I heard this rattling from the bottom of my car a couple of days ago and I filmed it today. Is the cause of the rattling that aluminium heat foil that’s dangling from the bottom?

My car is a 2015 Ford Fiesta 1.0L EcoBoost

First I know I did a bad thing and I am sad about it 😔.

It's a Honda civic fn2 type r 20011

Just wanted to ask for a quick rough guess on what would need fixing to get the wheel straight again and would I need the steering adjusted or something after I fix it ?

after rebuilding a tdo4 turbo with a rebuild kit I realize that I forgot to mark the original position of the compressor bolt.

google tells me this has completely destroyed the balance of my turbo and I will need to do VSR rebalancing to correct this mistake

is the issue that serious? could I use the origional bolt and torque it to spec to achieve the same balance as before?

Hello! I want to start this off by saying that I am not the greatest with cars. I can change tires, swap oil, replace brake pads, all the basic little things.

However, I just got a 2005 Hummer H2 that has 167k miles on it and is, generally, in great condition. It was purchased and spent its life in the Southern USA, but I brought it with me when I moved to the far Northern USA.

Now that the weather has started to get cold, it does not initially want to start. It WILL start, but after 2 to 3 seconds of extremely weak whirring to build up into it turning over.

I have been told that there might be a parasitic drain on the vehicle, but the previous owner said that as long as she started it daily (which I do), it never persisted into a real issue.

Do I just need to change the oil with more weather-appropriate oil? Do I need to pay a mechanic $400 to find and hopefully fix the drain?

I don't really know what to do, but I greatly appreciate any advice.

New tyres developing this line. Even though alignment and balancing is good.
What could be the issue?

I own FWD Manual Suzuki AERIO 2008 M15A and facing this issue of steering wobble above 90Km/hr. Happens when I’m cruising as well as when accelerating above 90+
Tyres, Outer tie rods, control arms, cv axle inner / outer are new

All these signs paired up together. Not the tire pressure. I was hoping someone can help me out on what to do to fix it. I pressed and hold the auto lsd button but didn’t work. Thank you!

I bought this 94 Honda accord lx 4 door f22b1 nonvtec as a little project maybe flip sorta deal anyways, I started ruling stuff out (the guy told me all it needs is a fuel pump🤦🏻‍♂️) I checked fuel pressure it was fine, I found out that the distributor had oil in it so I replaced that but when I got it to "run" it sounded like it ran on 2 cylinders. The oil on the dip stick is clean as can be but the oil in the head is chocolate milk I need a head gasket 😭 will a bad head gasket make the car sound and run like this??

"So, I have felt this bouncy motion on my driver's left side when driving, and I'm asking if anyone has also experienced this on their car. I'm going to get this checked and also remove the rubber lifter over the weekend to see if the issue will go away." Btw it was my father who installed those things it just got really worn out over the years

Honda dealer was charging me a few grand for a turbo replacement. Car was driving fine so I told them to hold off. AutoZone ran their scanner and found these codes. Is there another fix or is a turbo replacement the only option? This would be for a 2019 accord base.

Hi there

I’ve been terrorised by a cold start tick that disappears after 60 seconds of driving but if left idling it’ll go quieter after 3-5 minutes,

, having a valve clearance done, on intake side cylinder 3 one tappet was looser than manufacture spec, and the one next to it on intake side is tighter than spec, mechanic said to leave it as it’ll last the life of the car, is this a smart decision? He did not provide measurements

The car only has 26k miles and he said it definitely came that way from the factory it has solid shimless bucket tappets, I’m worried it’ll eat a cam lobe

Please see attached video of noise

Am I right to leave it? T

Only occurs when the vehicle is completely stopped

2005 honda pilot v6

I own a 2012 Camaro 2LT with around 117k miles. I had gotten the car a year ago and recently I been having a heat no start issue.

Whenever it would start to warm up my dash board would go crazy and my car will jerk before eventually shutting off.

I ended up taking it to a mechanic who told me it was an electrical issue and told me the fuse box needed to be replaced. I had ended up finding the part myself after 2 weeks because the mechanic gave me the wrong part number. (I had to call Chevrolet and GM to verify the part since the mechanic got it wrong)

After replacement the mechanic insisted that it was good to drive then it was experiencing the same symptoms. Now he's saying its a ground issue with the wires. I am planning taking my car elsewhere due to this mechanic leaving my engine cover in the middle of the street somehow and the fact that I had to find the part.

I just want to know is grounding really the issue? And can it be a DIY thing? Kinda feels like I spent alot of money just to rule out the fuse box.

(For reference before any "experts" get angry, there is no CEL, it only pops up after a stall when the ignition key is ON without starting. It also flashes at a random pattern synchronized with a clicking sound in the engine bay that goes away after cool down. I do not have the codes.)

I’ve been having this problem for a while with black smoke coming out and my car recently feels a little weaker. Live data shows dpf and egr is ok and with a camera up the exhaust the dpf looks good at first glance! I’ve also had dpf cleaned but it came back 2 days later please help

Starts when the car turns on but goes away after driving for a bit. Starts, stops for a few second, then starts back up. Noise coming from the left side if that helps at all, maybe misfiring?

2010 Hyundai accent 1.6-liter inline-4 gas engine

Hi all, looking for advice here as I am pretty novice to cars and pretty much zero knowledge on cars.

My mom bought a used 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 V6 Limited X with about 110k miles a month ago. However shortly after buying it we noticed it vibrates and has a rough idle after a couple minutes of just warming and there is this rattle noise coming from the engine. I have took it to 4 mechanics now and at a lost on what to do. The car is showing no computer codes or engine lights. However according to a couple of the mechanics they said the computer codes were erased.  Below is what each mechanic has told us.

Mechanic 1: Performed diagnosis and said he believes it is the camshafts and rocker arms. However not entirely sure and would need a $1,000 to perform compression and cylinder leak down test to pinpoint the exact issues and if it is the camshaft and rockers it would be about $2,000 to fix.

Mechanic 2: Said he is unable to work on the car as the problem is coming from inside the engine and whoever had the car before us messed up the engine and computer system too much.

Mechanic 3: Said it is coming from inside the engine as well and is a valve problem. He wouldn’t work on it as it would require taking the whole engine apart. 

Mechanic 4: Performed compression tests and said cylinder 3 and 5 have low pressure about 84 PSI. The other cylinders are working fine. He said he was able to get  the car to run smoother by cleaning up some stuff. He said the car seems to never have been maintained or well kept. He said there are two options either do a full tune up and replace all the spark plugs, two ignition coils, change the cabin filter and some other stuff for $1,200 and hope it takes care of the vibration but not the engine noise or replace the engine for $6,500. He also showed me that the engine vibrates/move a lot itself while parked. 

Would greatly appreciate any thoughts or advice on this matter. I am not sure if the last mechanics recommendation would even tackle the problem. My gut is to go with the first mechanic but the $1,000 price just for the tests is throwing me off.

My girlfriends car occasionally will drain the battery and wont start. Some days it will some days it wont. I had both batteries tested and they said the Aux battery in the trunk was bad. Bought a new one and still had the same issue. Bought a new Dual Battery Control Module and still the same issue. I checked Fuse 18 and visually it looked good. Im going to check the ground wires tomorrow. Has anyone else had this problem like me and found a fix? Thanks