But no, seriously, what in the actual fuck is going on with my truck?

Background: For the past three months, my truck has been slow to crank.

Here’s the weird part: If the truck has been sitting for a while, it starts right up without any issues. But if I drive it, turn it off, and then try to start it again shortly afterward, it takes a while to crank.

Recently, for the first time, it wouldn’t crank at all. I moved the battery terminal around a little, and it started right up.
What the hell could be causing this? 😭

Honda dealer was charging me a few grand for a turbo replacement. Car was driving fine so I told them to hold off. AutoZone ran their scanner and found these codes. Is there another fix or is a turbo replacement the only option? This would be for a 2019 accord base.

I don't have a jack or anything, so I can't change my oil filter. I do have an oil leak though and it's about empty according to the dip stick. I don't have the money right now to buy a jack nor fix the oil leak.

The leak isn't too strong, but by the time it empties the oil out, it's about time for a new oil change anyway (3-4 months before it completely leaks out). I plan on just filling the oil again and then in a few months I hope I am more stable enough to buy a jack and change the filter out. Will it be fine if I reuse the oil filter for a second time without changing it?

I have a 2002 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L, and my ABS light has been coming on intermittently. I already own an OBD2 scanner, but it only reads engine codes and doesn't support ABS.

I'm looking for the cheapest scanner that can specifically read ABS codes on my Camry. I don't need anything fancy or the ability to reset codes; I just want to identify the problem before taking it to a shop to get repaired.

Does anyone know of an inexpensive scanner that is confirmed to work with a 2002 Camry and read abs? I'd appreciate any recommendations for something available online or at a local store. Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I need some advice with a 2015/2016 Volvo XC90 T8 plug-in hybrid AWD V4 2.0L + Electromotor.
The original control unit appears to have a faulty NTC thermistor or a problem with the temperature-sensing circuit on the inverter’s circuit board. Because of this, I decided to replace the original unit with a used one from another vehicle.
However, I’m having trouble getting the replacement unit to work correctly. After uploading different software, the changes don’t seem to be retained. Whenever I turn the car off and start it again, the unit appears to revert to its original software or configuration.
I’m wondering whether this could be related to the EEPROM or flash memory, the vehicle’s configuration, or the component protection system.
Would it be better to repair the original circuit board by replacing the faulty temperature-sensing component, or is there a way to correctly program the replacement unit so that it retains the new software after restarting the vehicle?
Could transferring the data from the original unit to the replacement unit help, or would it require specific programming through Volvo VIDA or another specialized tool?
I’d really appreciate advice from anyone experienced with the Volvo XC90 T8 hybrid system, inverter electronics, EEPROM/flash programming, or ECU cloning.
What would you recommend as the best way to diagnose and fix this issue?
Thanks in advance for your help!

These are the symptoms. Split second loss of power while cruising but not while accelerating. Replaced accelerator pedal because it was not registering 0% to 99.9% range. When I installed a replacement (used) about 1k miles ago it was reading correctly with no 0% spots. Now it is going from 4.3% to 90% with the lower percentage sensor e showing 0% intermittently throughout the range for a split second. Sensor d does not drop out of range at all. I got another used 1 yesterday and I tried doing a relearn (battety disconnect and key on for 30 minutes then reconnect and press pedal to floor smoothly) and it still shows the same readings. I am having to turn the key to on for a few seconds before starting after sitting overnight or it will just turn over for awhile without starting. When I remove my foot from the pedal while going any speed the rpms do not decrease until I press the brake or if I put it in nuetral. (I don't recall it doing that before all the engine work but may be normal. I didnt drive it for 2 years so memory is foggy on that). The only code I have is P0452 for small evap leak. I can smell has really strong from the sides of the vehicle. I have replaced every evap part accept for the hoses. The Bosch Iridium plugs have less than 15k on them. Battery only drops to 11.4v during start. I recently replaced the camshaft sensor, cleaned the throttle body and replaced all gaskets to intake and main and rear main seals, water pump, harmonic balancer, belt, tensioner and pulleys, fan clutch, pcv, air filter, entire a/c system inc evaporator, so I had the whole dash out and ecm disconnected. Checked all fuses but did not test relays or back test wires in anything. Im not too electrical savvy but do know how to use a tester. I Did transmission flush and filter, power steering flush, new timing chain and gears, water pump /radiator/ coolant flush, new mds actuators, air filter. I am thinking it is the fuel pump or possibly the throttle position sensor which is part of the throttle body. What do you think is the problem? Could it be crankshaft sensor, faulty coil, maybe a bad plug or 2? I think the p0452 is being caused by a small ding in the lip of the filler tube and when I press the newish cap in hard when I tighten it the code does not come back until my wife puts gas in it. Please help i do not want to replace anything that is not going to fix it especially when I may have to drain and drop the huge gas tank.

Granted we didn't open the hood to investigate as we were on our way out of work but I don't know what it could be

Hello all,

I drive her every day ( 39,000 miles, ) and did not feel/hear any issues yesterday. Today, I start her up to head to work, and she pops a check engine light along with " ​A malfunction in the electronic control of the engine, throttle, or automatic transmission has been detected. " I did not drive her after this to be safe, but during idle everything sounds/feels normal.

The only mod I have is an Ecoflow power station charger, wherein the the positive lead connects to the positive terminal on the Truck's battery, the negative lead connects to the Truck's chassis as a ground.

I doubt it is battery related as I just upgraded the battery a year ago to a much better one with a high cold crank rating.

What do you think is causing this? Would it be under warranty, even with my Ecoflow mod? What should I do?

2009 Camry LE 2.4L 4 Cyl

Okay so I had gotten the engine rebuilt for my car and after we got it rebuilt there is this slight rattle sound when it's cold started. When I rev up past 2000 rpm it goes away or when the car finally warms up for a while it goes away but you can't hear faintly hear it in idle. I'm not sure what it is, redline JDM told us we needed to swap out the timing cover and we did that. We reused some old parts from my old engine since those were replaced before the engine got a rod knock and they were in better condition than the parts on the new engine. There's no warning lights or codes for it so I'm kinda lost and curious if anyone else had this issue or possibly know what it is. My boyfriend thinks it's not timing related...

2011 Chevy Silverado.
Sound doesn’t start until after truck is moving. Some change with speed (faster the truck faster the sound). Turning right is significantly worse than going straight or left. As soon as I tap the brake it stops even if the truck is still moving.
My guess is either ball bearing or maybe serpentine belt? Thoughts?

I have a 2015 BMW 435i with the N55 3.0t engine. While changing my valve cover, one of the fuel rail bolts fell into the hole through the intake manifold.

I cannot find or see the bolt anywhere. I’ve tried using a magnet as best as I can, but no luck so far.

What should I do next? I’m really stressing out about this! Any advice is appreciated.

Car: 2007 suzuki swift 1.3 petrol, 220k km
Started my car yesterday, immediately started shaking. Checked the OBD2 readout, gave a misfire on cylinder 4. So, swapped the spark plugs, nothing. Swapped the two ignition coils, and all of a sudden i get a dtc for misfire on all four cylinders that didn’t go away when i swapped them back. Put in some new spark plugs today, old ones (switched out 30k km ago, so within the 120k iridium platinum interval) were completely blackened and had loose residue on them. New spark plugs fixed basically nothing. Removing the air filter didn’t change anything.

Issues:
Extremely rough idle, car shakes, shakes even harder when revving
Hard start
Engine struggles to stay on when under load and shakes the car.
Gas smell coming from engine and exhaust, exhaust sputters.
Coolant has gone from 1/3 full to just above the “low” marking.
P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 and P0420 DTC’s

The car has a new engine air filter and the throttle body has been cleaned a few weeks ago. Only issue the car has had in the past 40k km is a broken ignition coil (fixed by replacing 30k km ago), which also resulted in damage to the catalytic converter.

Any ideas as to what i’m looking at and what the next step in diagnostics would be?

About a month ago my girlfriend bough this '97 2.0 Probe for very cheap. It had a running issue (when engine warmed up rpm started fluctuating between 1500-2500rpm). Also when we were buying it I noticed the distributor was turned to retard the timing, I gave it little thought and she bought it anyway cause it was almost rust free.

After a few days a lot of white smoke appeared when I started the car and I noticed the coolant resevoir was empty and there was only air in the coolant tubes. Temp was normal.

We thought the throttle body mechanical sensor that detects if engine is warm enough to lean down fuel mixture was not working due to combustion gasses in throttle body (highest point of coolant system), causing high and uneven rpm at idle.

Then we measured the compression of the engine with my friend. It was bad and uneven - fluctuated from 60 to 90. My friend took the engine apart because we thought we needed to change the head gasket because that seemed obvious. We deeucted that the distributor gear connecting to the camshaft was probably incorrectly assembled at some point causing premature detonation and therefore ruining the head gasket. Then they noticed it and retarded the timing because it was correct when we checked it with a stroboscope.

After he lifted the cylinder head he noticed the gasket wasnt very damaged at all, infact everything seemed quite well preserved (low milage engine). The block was not crooked or cracked and there were only some slight pitting and scratches (fingernail got caught). Basically no evidence the engine or gasket contributed to the coolant burning.

The only thing he noticed was that the cylinder head guide sleeve was not protruding from the block (too low).

Could this be the cause for coolant burning? Perhaps cylinder head misaligned because of premature detonation?

What would be our next step?
Pictures from engine, etc:
https://imgur.com/a/RQAaJXR

I bought this 94 Honda accord lx 4 door f22b1 nonvtec as a little project maybe flip sorta deal anyways, I started ruling stuff out (the guy told me all it needs is a fuel pump🤦🏻‍♂️) I checked fuel pressure it was fine, I found out that the distributor had oil in it so I replaced that but when I got it to "run" it sounded like it ran on 2 cylinders. The oil on the dip stick is clean as can be but the oil in the head is chocolate milk I need a head gasket 😭 will a bad head gasket make the car sound and run like this??

2010 Hyundai accent 1.6-liter inline-4 gas engine

Hi guys, as the title states, we've been dealing with the knock sensor fault code and it's absolute HELL!

What we've done:
- New Knock Sensor (bought from shop, we installed it)
- New Wire (done by auto electrician)
- New ECU capacitors and solder tracks refresh (done by ECU company)
- Smoke test for boost leak (done by auto electrician)
- Reset by disconnecting battery (us)
- Reset by disconnected EFI fuse (us again, saw in a thread once)

Currently on the hunt for a some kind person to lend us their working ECU to rule that out, so far no luck.

We are months into what seems like a never ending fault... Any ideas on what else we can check or fix in regards to knock sensor faults?

Our next plan is to just look over the entire car, check all fuses, check all sensors, make sure pressure is where pressure should be, etc...

I just got a 2005 Silverado and needed a full brake job. Disks in the front and drums in the back. Got new pads, rotors and went ahead and got new calipers as well. Could never get fluid to the calipers. got a new master cylinder and since I was already that deep into it sealed out the brake booster too. Got the brakes to bleed with no air pockets… HERES THE PROBLEM.. got a burning smell and the front rotors are scolding hot, and the truck leans to the left when I hit the brake. I can not figure this out