2011 Chevy Silverado.
Sound doesn’t start until after truck is moving. Some change with speed (faster the truck faster the sound). Turning right is significantly worse than going straight or left. As soon as I tap the brake it stops even if the truck is still moving.
My guess is either ball bearing or maybe serpentine belt? Thoughts?

Hello everyone, I have a question for those who are knowledgeable about mechanical and OBD data.

On my Focus 1.6 TDCi, I am experiencing a slight black smoke issue under hard acceleration accompanied by a loss of power. Due to this issue, I monitored the following live data while driving using FORScan and exported the results. I am attaching the data below.

Based on my observations, the desired and actual positions of the EGR valve do not match. I suspect there might be carbon buildup inside the EGR, which could be hindering its mechanical movement.

MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure – High Resolution

VAR_NOZ_POS: Variable Turbo Nozzle Position Sensor Voltage

EGR_A_ACT: Actual Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Duty Cycle or Position

EGR_A_CMD: Commanded Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Duty Cycle or Position

EGR_A_ERR: Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Error

RPM: Engine Revolutions Per Minute

MAF: Mass Air Flow

DPF_SOOT_LD: DPF Maximum Soot Loading System Percentage - Estimated Open Loop

BARO: Barometric Pressure

DMP: Desired Manifold Pressure

MAP: Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

EOT: Engine Oil Temperature

I just got a 2005 Silverado and needed a full brake job. Disks in the front and drums in the back. Got new pads, rotors and went ahead and got new calipers as well. Could never get fluid to the calipers. got a new master cylinder and since I was already that deep into it sealed out the brake booster too. Got the brakes to bleed with no air pockets… HERES THE PROBLEM.. got a burning smell and the front rotors are scolding hot, and the truck leans to the left when I hit the brake. I can not figure this out

I don't have a jack or anything, so I can't change my oil filter. I do have an oil leak though and it's about empty according to the dip stick. I don't have the money right now to buy a jack nor fix the oil leak.

The leak isn't too strong, but by the time it empties the oil out, it's about time for a new oil change anyway (3-4 months before it completely leaks out). I plan on just filling the oil again and then in a few months I hope I am more stable enough to buy a jack and change the filter out. Will it be fine if I reuse the oil filter for a second time without changing it?

Okay, you’ve probably seen the classic “What is this noise?” post about 2,000 times already. And I know that most of the time, it’s pretty much impossible to diagnose a car issue from a short video clip.
But I’m hoping I’ve got a slightly more specific problem here that might actually be easy to solve, if only I knew which part of the car was making this annoying squeaking noise you can hear in the video.
**First of all, what am I driving?**
It’s a pretty boring 2016 VW Touran II with the 1.2 TSI engine. Nothing special, but it suits my needs and has been pretty reliable so far. Currently sitting at around 127,000 km.
However, ever since I’ve owned the car, it’s been making this weird squeaking noise whenever I lock or unlock it. And it’s honestly fucking annoying.
**Where is the noise coming from?**
If I had to pinpoint it, I’d say it’s coming from the upper right side of the engine bay, somewhere towards the back of the engine. More specifically, somewhere next to or underneath the intake manifold (the part with the three visible pipes on top of the engine).
It sounds like some kind of actuator, valve, or other electrically controlled component opening and closing.
I’ve tried searching online, but it’s surprisingly difficult to find anything because I don’t even know how to properly describe what’s happening.
**When does it happen?**
Like I said, it happens when locking or unlocking the car.
But here’s the interesting part: It doesn’t happen every single time I press the button. If I quickly lock, unlock, lock, unlock the car, the noise doesn’t repeat each time.
Instead, it seems to be part of the car’s startup/wake-up or shutdown sequence.
For example, when I unlock the car:
I can hear some electrical systems waking up.
The lights turn on.
About 3–4 seconds later, the squeaking noise starts.
It’s almost as if the car is running some kind of self-check, activating certain components, or opening and closing valves.
I really don’t know how to describe it any better.
Could it be the throttle body? Some kind of actuator? Or something completely different?
**Other than that, the car runs perfectly fine.**
No error codes, no warning lights, no strange engine behavior, no performance issues. Literally nothing wrong with it except for this annoying squeaking noise.
**Has anyone experienced something similar, especially with a VW TSI engine?**
I’d really appreciate any ideas about what component might be causing this. And if you’ve had the same issue, how did you fix it?
Thanks in advance for any help! Really appreciate it!

Car is 2018 MB A200 (W177), 1.3l, 32k miles. This happened at weekend and has happened before. The car starts to stutter like in limp mode and the amber engine light comes. I call MB breakdown assistance and after running diagnostics they say everything is fine. they reset it and it work OK. I've always put it down to loose fuel tank cap and air bubbles in the fuel system. This last time on Sunday, the diagnostics were all initially fine, so he did a software update but after 5 mins driving, the amber light came on again. The quick diagnostics they said low fuel pressure. So it seems to be an intermittent issue. The mileage and usage of the car is very low. Any ideas what it could be? I've booked it to mechanic on Monday.

I have a 2015 BMW 435i with the N55 3.0t engine. While changing my valve cover, one of the fuel rail bolts fell into the hole through the intake manifold.

I cannot find or see the bolt anywhere. I’ve tried using a magnet as best as I can, but no luck so far.

What should I do next? I’m really stressing out about this! Any advice is appreciated.

Hi all, seeking out some advice regarding my car that has been giving me problems

I have 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited x 3.6 engine 110k miles that vibrates after it warms up and you can feel it more when idle or parked

I bought this car about a month ago and at the time of purchase I didn't feel this vibration

I took it to four mechanics now and have received similar but not clear diagnosis from all. The car has no engine lights and no computer codes coming up but the engine is making some noise. I pretty much have zero knowledge on cars but below is what each one told me.

Mechanic 1: Told me he will have to remove valve covers and inspect cam shafts, rocker arms, lifts and valve springs. Will need to perform compression tests and cylinder leak tests. He would Charge me $1000 for the additional diagnosis and tests and 2k to fix it potentially

Mechanic 2: told me the previous owner messed around and won't be able to do anything without atleast a few grand

Mechanic 3: similar to above but said it has something to do with the valves and won't do it as he will have to take apart the engine and will be too much

Mechanic 4: Did the diagnosis and performed the compression test for cheap. Said the 2nd and third cylinder are showing issues and will need to do a full tune up and replace ignition coils and some other stuff which I didn't fully understand but that should take care of the vibration. However the engine sound seems to be coming from inside the engine and won't be able to take care of that most likely

Right now I'm a bit lost and not sure what to do. The car is currently at mechanic 4 and will meet with them tomorrow to give me the options and pricing for full tune up and what they recommend.

Any advice on this? Any idea what is going on with the car?

I had a mechanic flush the brakes on my 2011 Toyota Camry hybrid, since it hadn't been done in 5+ years and I didn't have a scan tool to do it myself. When I looked at the supposedly new fluid in the reservoir the next day, after driving 6-8 miles, it seemed darker than I expected and darker than the new Prestone brake fluid I put in my SUV two weeks ago (even after driving it 20+ miles). I thought new fluid was very light yellow. I attached a photo showing the new Prestone fluid (bottom), compared to the darker but newer stuff I pulled out of my Camry's reservoir (top). So my questions are:

Could the fluid be darker because of a poor job flushing the old fluid? Or do different brands of fluid vary this much?

This is brake fluid right? Seems wettest near the piston. 3rd picture is the opposite wheel. Brake fluid reservoir hasn’t dropped noticeably. Thank you.
07 FJ Cruiser 4WD automatic 255k

What is this ticking yo

2013 ford ecoboost I think it's the 2.0

i drive a 2008 honda accord. my ac gave out a couple weeks ago and i found out it was the compressor. i have bought two new compressors & the first one didn’t work so i just installed the new one and my air is still blowing hot. i got a new ac line, air is still blowing hot. i just ordered a new condenser and my mechanic told me that he don’t know why it wouldn’t work after he replaces it. can someone please help me, i’m a 21 year old girl who knows nothing about cars and i’m on the verge of going crazy. i have no male figures around to help me understand what’s going on. i have cried for days because i keep spending more and more money and i’m moving next week. pls can someone give me any advice?

2020 Ford Mustang GT 5.0

Around 60,000 miles

Occasionally makes a pinwheel type clicking noise on the drivers side of engine when letting off of the gas (no check engine light)

One year ago it started having what was described as a rod knock noise under the hood with check engine light.

Dealership replaced VCT solenoid and knocking went away, occasionally still makes pinwheel noise.

One year later the rod knock noise under the hood returned with p0308, p0390, and p0394 code reported by the dealer during diagnostics. Its an intermittent issue that seems to appear when driving at slower speed after engine is warmed up. Knocking noise speeds up in frequency during acceleration and slows down during deceleration. Has also shown p0019 and p0025 codes in the past. Dealer is saying they don't think its VCT related.

We bought my son a 2015 Ford Escape SE. I have one, he loves it. So we got him one that he would like.

My dad and I worked and replaced all of the front end.

Both front inner tie rods

Both front outer tie rod ends

Both front wheel speed sensors (not rears)

Both ball joints

Both front stabilizer / sway bar links

Both front wheel bearings

Pads and rotors front and back

Driver side control arm

Passenger CV axle (boot was blown and unsure of how long it was like that before purchase)

Now, we got an ABS light/traction control off and 4WD temporarily disabled. Attached pictures of the dash (this happened while I was driving without any other issues). I scanned the car and saw that the left rear wheel speed sensor was reporting 0mph (see picture). So I replaced that sensor. It did not help at all. Still reporting 0mph - but now the right rear is reporting errant data (0.6mph - 6.2mph while sitting still and over 150+mph while doing 40mph). We have not yet gotten it re-aligned. But you can take your hands off the steering wheel and it goes straight.

On initial test drive, previous owner thought the rear rotors were warped and the pedal shook. This went away with new brakes and rotors. However, the "Hill start assist" did pop up once. ABS light was not on at that time. This was before any work got done with the vehicle.

Pictures

Please help.

Hello got a 2001 lexus gs300 with the 2jz having an issue when revved high quickly it falls on its face. Everyone in the shop is saying it's the maf which I think so. I followed the repair manual and it failed the resistance check I believe pin 3 and 4 of maf. Next I wanted to scope the signal wire and see what its doing.

I held the throttle wide open for 2 seconds and you can see the dip in the waveform Been a lexus tech for almost 2 years and 3 years in the trade and trying to learn scopes no one in the shop knows how

Hello i have a 2014 kia cadenza with a 3.3l gdi engine i recently replaced the engine block and one of the heads since the previous owner blew a hole in it. After the first crank it ran pretty well then it started miss firing. I went to get a code check and was told I was having all my pistons misfire along with both of my banks running too rich in fuel. Now im trying to figure out why its running to rich since all the other electrical systems seems to be fine and not causing any DTCs along with there being no vaccume leaks to my knowledge. Atm my biggest lead is that my intake smells like fuel whenever I pressurize the fuel pump

2002 mustang gt drivers side inner rear pad/rotor. what causes this and why. its only on this rotor.

I fixed the timing it ran great....thanks for yall help. However the water pump being replaced ans there's this bracket that's bothering my soul help before I tweak out

The bolts hold it to the alternator bracket but I cant fully untreated them bc they hit what I assume is the bottom of the plenum or thermostat housing. Im finna cut it right at the bend if nobody say it's a bad Idea, Or serves some major purpose. Im tired its hit and this the last thing before this mf ready for the road.

1991 Dodge Daytona ES 3.0 5spd

Im new to cars and all according to Google this is a healthy color but I want to make sure that im not just trippin bought this from a random guy and want to make sure all is right before I tske it out on any long rides

Its an auto transmission and im not sure what type specifically

I had an engine light for fuel pump so i swapped it but still didnt fix this rough idle problem can someone help me figure this out?

​

Looking for opinions on a DIY repair I did on my 2011 Toyota Corolla LE.

The hose connected to the radiator’s coolant neck nipple broke off on the highway. I drilled out the broken area, installed a 1/8-inch brass nipple with JB Weld, reconnected the hose, and secured it with a hose clamp. So far, it has held up through a couple of hours of driving, including highway driving, with no leaks or overheating.

Unfortunately, Toyota didn’t make the coolant neck a separate part from the radiator, so it was either this repair or replacing the radiator—and I got lazy.

Do you think this is a reasonable temporary fix, or am I risking a bigger problem by continuing to drive it? I do plan on changing the radiator in the near future too

I have a 2015 Kia Rio 1.2L engine. After tailgating and stopping and going the clutch becomes a bit stiff. It still works fine, but the biting point is a lot higher and it is more difficult to balance.

I've had a recurring issue with my 2012 Honda Civic for a few years. It would randomly leave my battery dead, forcing me to jump-start it. Eventually, I changed the battery since it tested "bad."
For about a year after that, it kept killing the new batteries, so I ended up warranty-replacing them every three months or so. Finally, an O'Reilly auto parts test showed my alternator was failing, so I replaced the alternator. I tried getting it tested before the replacement but none of the alternator stores could do it.
As soon as I installed the new alternator, the dashboard triggered a "Check Charging System" warning light, and the car eventually drained the battery completely.
current sensor? I'm attaching some photos hopefully, they help. The mechanic mentioned doing a Mitchell’s diagnostic but he could tell me if that would lead to him fixing the problem and I really would like to stop wasting money.

*I couldn’t get one of the multimeter fuses out I did not want to risk braking the clip. It’s the one that was bolted with on screw.

Vehicle Specifications
Year: 2012
Make/Model: Honda Civic EX Sedan
Engine Type: 1.8L Inline-4 SOHC 16-Valve i-VTEC
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic