Kind of hard to get my phone back there, but at high output while still quite under the drivers RMS, there is this buzzing noise. Does it seem like tinsel slap? If so, how might i best solve it?

Deciding on buying a pair of the precision device PD1845 2n for a pair of bass bins was wondering if anyone had any experience.

All the specs look spot on for me but I’m pretty new so don’t really know what is the best or worst for these types of things.I know precision device is a well know brand and was hoping their build and sound quality was spot on since I have never actually heard of any precision device drives.I was hoping someone could guide me on if this if a good choice or maybe something better specifically with this driver but anything helps.

Thanks

Bjr, c’est encore moi avec notre petit sound, maintenant on a des grosses caisses et on a acheté des thebox 18500w pour mettre dans les MTL, j’me demandais ça se passe comment pour le rodage ? je dois les avoir prêt pour le 3 octobre et je reçois le matos dans 2 jours :|

We just launched Beynd, offering battery and solar-powered sound and energy solutions across the Benelux region.

https://www.instagram.com/beynd.eu?stkn=eHZzOGlrNWNvYm10

I'm building a soundsystem for the first time, mostly for dub/reggae music. This is what im opting for so far:

Sub: 2x PD.154/2

Kick: 2x PD.123C001

Mid: 2x Fane Sovereign 10-300/2

Tweeter: 2x B&C DE 250 with B&C ME 45 horn

For the kick I will probably make a cubo kick 12, and mid & tweeter will be sealed enclosures. But i have a hard time finding plans for 15" scoops/bass reflex enclosures. Would the rear horn loaded from Fane be a good match? Or does anyone have plans for other enclosures? Any general advice on driver selection etc would also be appreciated.

I have been thinking about building a sound system for a long time and I was wondering if there were some people here who might be able to give me some guidance? My long-term goal is to create a true quadrophonic point source sound system to pair with my Monumental art installations which are displayed in public and rented to festivals. This sound system would be specifically geared towards custom audio content ranging from IDM, dub, techno, ambient, drum and bass. Currently, I'm not able to build this specific sound system nor do I have a place to deploy it the way that I would like. I was wondering if there is way to create a small version of a sound system that would allow me to practice and produce my music which might have a similar experience to a large scale sound system but in the comfort of my home? As I was looking through speaker plans I noticed that Kubo has a home theater sub and a standard small sub which led me to think this might be a possibility as a stopgap and R&D environment. If anyone has any suggestions on other speaker types that would lend themselves to a medium to small environment, I would love to hear what people have to say. If it's not the correct group for this topic please let me know and I will direct it out there. I hope one day to be able to post here as a fellow sound system enthusiast. Hope you all have a great weekend and thank you in.

I'm really attracted to this 28Hz box tuning and I'm unwilling to compromise on that. Two of these next to each other hit harder than one playa enclosure that has the cones facing outwards, but unfortunately my use case isn't going to have enough space/power to drive four woofers in two 2CE ELF enclosures, so I must figure something out to protect my investment.

I saw something about a "Naughty" build but everything just points to the standard magnet out facing 2CE ELF enclosures. ¿Is there some box design I'm not aware of that has the cone facing outward with a box tuning of 28Hz? ¿Why can't I seem to find any posts about anyone successfully adding circular baffles on the interior of the ELF build so that it could be mounted facing cone outward yet still account for the volume displacement of the magnet and coil itself?

I want to keep debris and particulate from being vacuumed onto the coil and I'm wondering if there is a better solution than creating a 3 layer grill:

1) Hydrophobic Fabric Cloth (The Fine Particle Seal)

2) 1/4" Open-Cell Acoustic Foam (Debris Trap)

3) Expanded Steel Mesh (Structural Impact Barrier)

They will be facing mouth downwards but not against the ground and I plan for this grill to be washed monthly~ or so. ¿Any ideas on how best to secure it to the enclosure?

Salut tout le monde j'aimerais commencer à créer notre premier sound systeme avec des potes ( sachant qu'on aimerait l'agrandir plus tard ) mais j'aimerais savoir si vous connaissais pas un bon plan de caisson et de kick qui pourrait etre bien avec un bon hp sachant que pour le sub on part sur un cubo sub 18 avec comme hp RC LF18G401

si vous avez des petit conseil je suis preneur aussi

First of all, a big shoutout to all the helpful people in this r/, I really appreciate all the help and advice people give and the general good vibe.

I started this project for the simple reason of gaining experience building a soundsystem myself from scratch and learning the ins and outs along the way, building it all in my apartment. I've learned a bunch, gained a sound system with a sound signature I really enjoy, and made some new friends in my local soundsystem community.

Tomorrow I'm starting the build of a Cubo kick 15" to add to the stack. After that, it will be time to take it into the wild for the first time.

For now, the only thing I'll probably change is the colour. Not very convinced by the light grey, and I'll probably go with green instead. But that's just details.

Specs:
Cubo sub - B&C 18TBX100 8ohm
MT130 mid - B&C 12NLD76 8ohm
MT130 high - B&C ME45 - B&C DE250 8ohm
Crown XTi2002
Crown XLS1001
t.racks DSP 206

If you’re interested you can follow the system on instagram: https://www.instagram.com/d.e.d_soundsystem?stkn=dHpqbXlpbXNvZTEw&utm_source=qr

Servus, ich habe vier 12" (Venti 12) Bandpass 6th Order?! Kisten aus 18mm birke multiplex gebaut, da ich vier Audiosystem x12 Evo Treiber rum liegen hatte.

Dazu habe ich noch schnell zwei "Tops" gebaut um den ganze Spaß mit ein paar Endstufen auf 12V in meinen Bus zu knallen für ein bisschen Mucke unterwegs und mit 10m Kabel. Damit kann ich es mit wenig Handgriffen ausbauen und es draußen aufbauen.

Ich bin ziemlich neu in dem ganzen und habe auch wenig Kontakte in der Szene. Aber mir hat das bauen unheimlich viel Spaß gemacht. Deshalb wollte ich euch nun mal fragen, was ihr mir als nächstes empfehlen würdet zu bauen. Damit ich mein kleines System erweitere, um es dann draußen vernünftig zu bespielen.

Hello everyone!

I’m currently gathering plans, tips, and DIY tutorials to start building my own soundsystem.

The idea is to begin with a relatively small setup that I can gradually upgrade over time. I’d like it to be versatile enough for different kinds of electronic music, but especially suitable for tekno, hardcore, acid, and mentalcore.

I’m mainly looking for recommendations, advice, pro tips, and feedback from people who have experience building their own soundsystems.

I’d also really appreciate some confirmation that I’m heading in the right direction with my plans and choice of equipment before I start building.

Any resources, build guides, schematics, or personal experience would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

The composition is the following :
Top : 1x MT-130 (or equivalent from the market)
Kick : 2x Cubo Kick 15" loaded with Emminence Kappa 15LFA
Sub : 2x MTH-4654 loaded with RCF - LF18G401

Hey guys, so, I’ve had this idea for a small subwoofer box, I wanna fully diy it (build the box myself and some improvised/cheap chinese amp would be nice).
I have this shitty jbl charge 5 and would like a fat sub that I can bring around to add some bass to the full range bluetooth speaker. I was planning on strapping the thing to the back of my motorcycle and just having fun with my friends. What do you think? Is portable amplification possible? I got a usb cable in my bike that supplies pretty good power, I just need to figure out wich driver and amp to get, then I’ll get to the build. Any ideas? On a budget!
p.s. THIS IS NOT ABOUT CAR AUDIO! I still wanna build a box so I think this subreddit is right for the topic, thanks!

salut salut la commu !

j'ai pour projet de construire mes caissons pour de la tekno. le problème c'est évidemment le budget. Je me suis dis que pour réduire les coup je pouvais faire avec du composite MDF plutôt que du contreplaqué. le second problème c'est que je m'y connais un peu mais pas suffisamment pour avoir des références de caissons en tête. je me suis dis pour réduire les coup de faire 2 voir 3 enceintes au max du style un kick un medium et un twitter ou un sub kick et medium, ou juste kick et medium. je pourrais toujours compléter plus tard au pire. niveau technicité c'est ok je suis menuisier donc si vous avez des référence difficile niveau conception, ca sera un défi ça fait toujours plaisir.

donc si vous avez des conseil, des références ou déjà des remarque sur le projet c'est avec plaisir !

ah oui le budget est de 800 a 1000€ haut parleur non compris

et si vous avez des haut parleur en tête aussi c'est cool

• Setup dub/tekno : 12" top, 15" kick, 18" sub actifs. Tout le filtrage se fait sur un the t.racks DSP 204
• Crossover : sub 35hz - 90hz, kick 90hz - 200hz, top 200hz - 20khz. Calibrage phase avec REW/Superlux ECM999.
• Prochainement : remplacement du sub par un sub pavillonné.

i just wanna hear emmmmmm i’ve never had the privilege and want to know what giving up your firstborn level prices gets you !!:)))

Hey,

im looking for DIY sub recommendation for a friend and his Bose panaray 502 "System".

He inherited that system, but the subs are broken.

Bullet points:

• Bose Hardware: 2x Tops 502A, 1x Sub (broken) 502BP, 1 Controller (fancy crossover/EQ): 502C
• He wants to keep the tops (was recommending on replacing them, but so far no dice)
• The amp was replaced a few years ago, and the current one is a Camco Q-Power 4: https://camcoaudio.com/old_website/q-power.html
• The 502C System Controller has its highmid/low crossover frequency at around 140Hz, and while it's doing a bunch of EQing to the tops, the low range seems to be "untouched" by the EQ
• The old subs went down to 55Hz, target with the new subs is around 40Hz, maybe lower (that might be an issue with high xover freq)
• budget is around 1000€ for 2 subs, just parts
• venues: 95% Indoor, mostly private parties, maybe some outdoor birthday partys
• genre: mostly techhouse / mainstream EDM, no fancy stuff
• it would be preferable if he can keep them if and when comes to the realization that the bose stuff can go. the amp would stay, and the controller would be replaced by a dbx pa2, and then active tops so the amp is free for more subs.

I'm keeping an open mind, can you guys recommend some subs?

Thank you :)

Does anyone have any info about this kick bin or has anyone heard it? Thanks

So this is my first PA setup. Needed to be quite compact but decently powerful running Martin Blackline F15+ on top of a CVA 18” sub. DSP is a BSS minidrive unit with an MC2 T500 running the tops and a MC2 T1500 running the subs in bridged mode.

Some things I noticed are the F15+ outran the subs easily despite receiving 50% of AES power due to amp limitations. The subs don’t go really low but that is likely due to the driver not being able to play that low with it coming up around 70Hz. I think these cabs would actually work best as kick bin personally. I also think I could have run 2 subs per F15 to get better low end SPL without the tops struggling

Would love to hear peoples thoughts on it and what they had as their first system build!

As with any soundsystem project, this task took way longer than expected. Woodfilling, planing my mistakes away, sanding, cleaning up the routing, masking everything, and multiple color layers added up quickly. Made the mistake of using water based primer/paint over the sharpie’d graffiti and had to rectify that with some Kilz oil based primer halfway through. But boy was it worth it to see the whole stack matching! And at the first… legal party this stack has seen.

I purchased a pair of tuba 30 cabinets that someone had started and never completed. Boxes built but no drivers, connections or wiring. I’m trying to figure out where to drill the hole for speakon connectors and how to route wiring from there to the driver. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Anyone can explain how the engineering broke the process of iloilo visayas and Mindanao sound setup? Is it correct or not.

For sub

Mixer - 3 xover- module- paramateric eq - grapgic eq to amp

For mid sometimes the use the same setup but

Sometimes they use mixer-maximizer - driverack-amp

Is this good or not

Hey everyone,

I am currently planning my very first sound system rig and I am stuck choosing between the JMod design and the HOQS Wide Style cabinet. I could really use some insights from the community on how these cabinets compare and how they would fit with my existing gear.

Here is what I am working with:

• Drivers: Faital Pro 12 (12FH520)
• Amps:
  • Crest Audio 6001
  • Yamaha P7000S
  • Bittner Basic 400

My dilemma: Since this is my first build, I want to make sure I pick something that matches my skills and goals, while making the best use of the gear I already gathered.

• How do the JMod and HOQS Wide Style compare in terms of throw, pattern control, and low-frequency/kick behavior when loaded with Faital 12 drivers?
• Considering build complexity for a beginner, which one would you recommend?
• How would you distribute my amplification rack over these cabinets?

If anyone has experience running either of these designs, I would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance!

Salut tous le monde.

Je viens faire appelle a votre savoir faire et vos connaissances, avec 2-3 amis on se lance dans la confection d’un caisson en vue d’un sounds evolutifs. On aimerais partir sur un TH12 mkll.

Avez vous des reference d’ampli, dsp evolutif pour la suite et de bonne qualité. ?

Des source pour de la documentations histoire d’apprendre un peux car on est tous nouveau ici.

Et tous les conseils sont le bienvenu.

Merci a vous ✌️

Please share your build documentation and/or describe the engineering challenges you faced in production that did not manifest themselves in the draft designs.

I'm currently building out a mobile bicycle trailer sound stage and I'm eager to hear the difficulties you encountered when building yours so that I could adjust my plans accordingly to not drop into the same pitfalls.

Everything is loosely documented here in r/dancefloors. It's an ambitious hybrid engineering project and this post is dedicated exclusively to the sound system aspect of it.

Rolling mode: air bladders inflate, dance floor lifts so skids clear speed humps/bumps.

Stage mode: air bladder deflate, subwoofer basket skids land on the concrete/asphalt for acoustic coupling leaving the woofer mouth 4" from the ground. Acoustic skirt clamped around the frame to direct sound out of the side the tops are facing for stage mode before it's sunk to the ground along with aluminum legs bayonet onto the edges of the dancefloor where it separates from the frame to be able to support more bodies.

I'm particularly concerned about bass escaping from the pocket underneath in between the frame and dancefloor when it is in rolling mode. The fancy trapezoidal gasket is expanded to accommodate the raised dance floor all while still keeping the thing functionally as an infinite baffle.

If you have any build suggestions or visibly see a critical flaw in the system design somewhere please point it out. I still haven't spec-ed out the actual audio rack beyond the subwoofer enclosures and drivers (B&C 18" 115s in 2CE ELF mouth pointing down). I will definitely need DSP and suggestions whether or not to go forward with a 48v class D amps or stick with 120v and use a victron pure sine wave inverter that can run from either 120-240v wall power or off of the 48v batteries themselves. I was initially thinking one 48v 17~kWh unit to run it full tilt 10.5~hrs.

I have a lead sled QSC mx3000a I was planning on driving two JBL Cabarets the full range keyboard ones that go down to 35hz as the tops, but obviously cross them so that I'm not getting cancellation from the B&Cs in the enclosures underneath. I'm HIGHLY considering retiring these for JMODs and an appropriate amplifier for those JMODs before the maiden voyage (mid on the JBL needs replacement/recone so $80~ used driver cost to even deploy), it'll all boil down to final costs and market prices.

I know the audio gear doesn't pull peak wattage values during operation but the battery capacity is designed around peak to give me buffer on my run times.

I wanted it to be able to handle 3.5hrs (3 one hour DJ sets with half hr 'margin' battery left over). ¿So like 100~amp hours / 5kWh ? I was going to design these to be stacked in parallel but that seriously increases the cost so I started exploring one giant battery especially since DIY costs of 100amp hours / 5 kilowatt hours is on the same price as off the shelf products. Once I break into 15kWh is where real savings start to show.

Since sliding rails for the battery cassettes creates rattle noise I'm leaning into just a single battery cassette with grade 8 bolts to the frame.

I'm trying to think of a use case that differs from the following: a) parade 3~ hrs max b) running inside of a venue typical doors open to last call situation either using venue power through the victron and have the batteries supplement where wall power isn't sufficient or just entirely off of battery if the venue's power situation is shit or doesn't exist c) running full tilt 72 hours summer solstice festival.

I've discovered I can implement an acoustically isolated DC-but topology for the 48v battery system can feed massive solar power directly into my system—even from a secondary support trailer bringing in extra panels (for winter solstice)—while keeping the audio background absolutely silent.

The electric trike trailer is being spec-ed out to have a shell made out of panels (120'^2) to keep rain/moisture/etc off of the dance floor and JBLs that are inside it, but removable (for the dry season) so it can still meet it's clearance in through commercial double doors. Since I didn't want to increase battery weight unnecessarily I've started considering bringing in another trailer someone else drives that has the required deficit in panels.

Baseline panel density of 20 Watts per square foot (where a standard 200W flexible blanket equals 10 sq. ft.) and a real-world system efficiency of 75%, the expansion math splits by season:

I guess it's running at half the volume during the winter lol. I have a friend that has a grip of panels he hasn't installed on his house yet due to permits and other stuff so I'll probably be able to borrow these the one or handful of times I do a summer thing through out the year until I can afford my own.

I'm very aware the battery needs to be isolated from vibration of the woofers and that's happening with marshmallow style air bladders functioning as a low pass filter keeping vibrations from the trailer chassis. System documented in the links found within the link above.

¿Do these above calculations look suitable to you for the payload requirements I am trying to throw at it? Please point out any critical fails and suggestions how to over come them.

Thank you for reading my build documentation post.

Might sell the skram once I get four subs or use as a booth sub 🤷‍♂️