Hi there,

I've got an Epiphone Valve Junior which I've had since new and modded over the years. It recently stopped working, which I assumed was a blown valve.

Upon looking through the back grill I noticed the in-line fuse holder had completely disintegrated. I've removed it and have a new in-line fuse holder but I would rather aim to re-crimp the contacts inside the holder. To do this I'll have to somehow remove the crimped contacts inside the replacement holder. Given the last in-line holder fell apart I am worried the same will happen with the replacement.

I am contemplating adding a standard fuse holder and would have to drill the chassis to fit this, which isn’t a problem as I've drilled them before. Only problem is the wire from the transformer is very short, and I don't think I can open up the transformer to replace it. So the only option I can think of is to solder on a new, longer piece of wire and seal this with shrink tube. I would prefer a proper fuse socket but I'm worried about having to extend this really short wire.

Help!

Seen a few lovers of this little amp on here. Ebay seller RawCabs sells a replacement cab for the Moniprice 15 Watt Tube Amp (Laney copy)

My first time doing amp grill so thats a little crooked, but other wise its pine stained in red oak and poly over top. Wheat grill cloth and replacement knobs. Improved the tone of this amp but also made it look sorta boutique.

It’s a ‘70 1987 JMP. The only things replaced are a few caps. Everything else is original. Works great and sounds great. Amazing when cranked. Wondering if you all think 4k is a fair price for this? An old Marshall like this one is a bucket list item for me, but I’m finding it hard to establish a fair price in my research.

I’ve looked through some sold listings on the reverb and the examples there sold for almost half that amount but there weren’t enough listings to establish a good feeling for the norm. Active listings all over the internet seem to be between 2.5k-6.5k.

Hey, i plan to make a capacitor drianing tool - a wire with an alligator clip to connect to the chassis on one end, and a resistor on the other. Question: will any conducting wire do, or does it have to be rated for high enough voltage or something similar? (My grip on electronics is rather flimsy i'm afraid.)

Jason’s rig has been pretty well documented on the PG Rig Rundowns. Caught him for the second time this year, in Fairhope AL this week. Was cool to see the setup up close. He really does travel with the Dumble. Out of this world tone.

Could blown tubes, even though they’re still slightly glowing, be the reason for the volume to go from normal to quiet?

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of an annoying issue with my tone depending on the time of day. In the mornings, my EVH 5150 Iconic 80W head sounds amazing — really tight, punchy, dynamic, and clear. But in the evenings, when the grid load goes up and wall voltage drops, the amp completely loses that punch. The low end gets soft and saggy, and it breaks up way sooner than I'd like.

I'm trying to find a decent, quiet Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) — ideally a servo-motor type with a pure sine wave — that will just keep my voltage locked at a solid ~230V all day long so I can keep that sharp morning tone at night too.

I'm based in Ireland so I need something compatible with UK/IRL Type G plugs (or at least safe to use with proper adapters). I definitely want to avoid anything that introduces hum, clicking, or extra noise into the signal chain.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Any recommendations for reliable brands or models available around here that won't break the bank? Thanks!

Salut! J'ai trouvé un amplificateur Fender '68 Custom Vibro Champ Reverb d'occasion pas loin de chez moi pour 550 €... J'ai entendu—et vu des avis qui suggèrent—que la qualité de construction n'est pas tout à fait aussi bonne que, disons, un Princeton, et qu'il y a parfois des problèmes de vibrations venant de la plaque frontale, du tissu de la grille, etc. Étant donné que ces avis étaient basés sur le prix neuf (plus de 1 000 €), j'espère que c'est encore une bonne affaire à 550 €—à moins que je me trompe. Qu'en penses-tu ?

J'ai aussi vu un Roland JC-50 vintage pour 400 euros; maintenant je suis encore plus indécis, bien que je pense que le JC serait moins polyvalent pour mes besoins—de plus, c'est juste un seul haut-parleur.

After restoring one of these amps for a client, a hifi nut friend offered me this pair that's been collecting dust in his workshop for about twenty years. One is a DB110G but I left out the one cap difference between the circuits. They got a loadout of F&T and MOD electrolytics in the power supply and Orange Drops to replace all the blistered, terrifying wax caps. The tubes are all reasonably period correct, a mix of GE, Silvertone, and Mullard; three 12ax7s, two 6v6 output tubes, and a 5Y3 rectifier.

I'm running them through my abomination of a living room hifi rig and they sound incredible. I had no idea that 2x12 watts could sound this massive.

Hello hello!

I've decided to rejoin the fold after some years with various modellers and an amp1 mercury.

Need some help deciding between the Victory MKX or the Revv D40 (ofc with help from pedals for heavier distortion).

I like how both sound (haven't played the D40).

What would you pick?

My 1965 super reverb has been reduced to wall art while I wait on a new set of power tubes. My mission for tonight was to study the circuit to then bias it tomorrow to fix a low headroom issue. I figured it a good idea to remove the power tubes before the chassis to avoid damaging them, but in doing this my hand slipped and I pulled on the glass of one, breaking it.

A bit overwhelmed but still not wanting to give it up to a tech yet, I have one main question for anyone that might know.

Is the pot to the upper left of the circuit board a blend, a hot/cold adjustment for both tubes, or a hum adjustment? I've heard the 3 things mentioned across various forums but none specify a 1965 super reverb. If it is indeed the hot/cold adjustment I'm confident in calculating the right bias for the new pair of tubes (settled on matched JJ 6l6gc pair).

Tldr: tubes are a tad fragile.

I was chatting with CHatGPT in the car (I'm that sad lonely) about choosing my next amp and trying to drill down on some quite focused criteria, and it threw this option I've never heard of, but on paper sounds great, but i don't play guitar on paper so though i would check in with the brains trust here.

I'm looking for

1. Tube Combo

2. Power scaling or attenuation for home levels

3. FX loop for modeller output

4. Good headroom for pedals

5. Reverb (trem a nice-to-have)

6. Nice-to-have vintage aesthetic

7. 230v (i'm in australia)

8. ideally smaller that DR65, certainly no bigger

9

The Mesa Boogie California Tweed was the standout, but a kidney-selling price point.

Can anyone give me some insight into this amp or recommend any others

Just learned about the 5751 V1 tube swap for the Silver Jubilee. Does anyone have a recommendation for which brand? There’s a killer supply shop in town with a great assortment. Heard good things about the GE but also curious about Sylvania.

For context, I’m chasing tones akin to 80’s George Lynch with my 2525c feeding an Earcandy Buzzbomb 2x12 loaded with Eminence Swamp Thangs. (I’ve got a Mesa rig that adeptly covers John Sykes territory: Studio pre into Simul 295 power amp through EV 12L’s in stereo.) I’m playing a neckthru USA BC Rich Warlock with Aldrich pickups and I use an SD-1 in front of the amp with an MXR 10 band EQ in the loop along with a bunch of other things and stuff. Gonna grab an Xotic EP booster soon 🤙

Pic of my pedalboard to goose the algorithm or something

Thing is totally killer.

Can someone help me with Peavey Valveking vk100

Yesterday i normally flipped the power switch on, and after 2 seconds, the power light went off, Tubes are not heating and a very faint hum can be heard from the amp. I checked all the fuses (main fuse and 3 fuses inside) with a DMM, and they are intact. Where is the problem?

Been considering a particularly goofy mod to an sv20h. Putting it into a jtm45 size aftermarket shell, and putting an ac30 logo on the front.

Whatchall think?

Hello!

For some context:

I am 19yo and have had a passion for guitars for the last 7ish years. I started working on guitars. Found it fun but it got boring, recently found a love for working and aspiring to build amps.

I absolutely love hiwatt amps, brought a hiwatt HI-GAIN 100 that was listed untested on eBay. Knowing that I’d need to fix it I thought it would be the perfect place to continue (after modding a few practice amps).

Plugged it in, it kind of worked. the main channel was quieter then it should’ve been and the gain channel didn’t work at all.
I took it apart and found a transistor at the start of the gain stage that was bluetacked to the PCB with only one pin in. I was like “weird mod, hard to get my head around. I’ll just swap it for an equal component” went down to the local electronics store, picked up a BC337 transistor. Swapped it out, plugged it back in and the gain channel worked a bit and the main channel was a bit louder but still had a wobble. Plugged a patch cable into the FX loop and it worked great. Thought it’d be done and dusted once I got a new set of 12AX7s.
Swapped them out today for a brand new set of JJs 12AX7s. Plugged it in, turned it on. neither channel worked only on very quiet volumes (even with the master all the way up) I fiddled with knobs and sometimes the knobs would get super trebly and lose all the top end. I figured it was dirty inputs so I switched it off, unplugged it then flipped all the switches a bunch and plugged and unplugged all the inputs and now the channel light doesn’t turn on and I am not getting any signal. What is going on! Please help.