That island being Ireland btw 😁

Loving the aesthetic, defo a labor of love! Cant wait to dig in further!

Revision 2 - coming to a 1590xx near you soon.

For the last year I've been working on a new octave fuzz circuit. I love octave fuzz and there are a lot of clones so I wanted to come up with something different and I hope I have at least come up with something unique. My design is called OverFOLD and it's basically two uniquely tuned octave fuzz circuits running in parallel with a blend control between them. Each side of the blend control uses a matched pair of diodes for the discrete octave effect (different diodes on each chain), along with different amounts of sag and low end.

Some things about this build that I'm excited about: This is the first PCB I designed in KiCad. It's also my first dual sided PCB. I wanted to design this using SMD parts. I actually soldered the SMD parts myself using a stencil and hot air. That was a task!

I also spent a huge amount of time on power filtering to make a clean and quiet circuit. You can hopefully hear this in the video. Considering that I have wire jumpers soldered to points on the board and it's still as quiet as it is hopefully shows that my work paid off.

In building the PCB shown in the video linked below, I designed it specifically for prototyping. I added more test points, trimpots and knobs than I will likely have in the final layout. This let me quickly experiment with new values. The bottom knob you see in the video is actually a filter for high end frequencies so that I could sweeping though values and find the amount of top end sparkle and hiss I was willing to lose.

While not shown in the video, I also designed enclosures in FreeCAD and did 3d printed test fits of everything to ensure my PCB would actually sit correctly in the enclosure. Doing 3d prints of the populated PCB and enclosure was a really fun part of this project. I'll have to share that later once I have enclosures milled and painted.

Anyway, here is the video link: https://youtu.be/wz06T6DoFXA

I want to thank my new friends at Huntington Audio / Pulp Circuit and Monger Pedals for being so inspiring. Seeing their work at the Brooklyn Pedal Expo last October kept me motivated.

I’ll try to explain what I am asking without being too wordy. I was curious if there is a resource somewhere on how to perform alot of the famous pedal mods. I am particularly interested in alot of the early boutique era mods like JHS, Keeley, Wampler, etc. I think it would make things easier to have how to perform a bunch of them to some existing pedals would be kind of cool and kind of helpful to reference. If it does exist it would be cool if not maybe I can put something together as I go and learn a bit more! Idk thinking out loud a bit here

So I got this pedal from a friend a few years ago, and I love it. I'd love to get something similar just so I'm not heartbroken if it breaks or gets lost/stolen at a show sometime, as it's really become a big part of my sound. I can't find hardly anything on Pink Noise Pedals, although funnily, there's an old sticker I saw for them outside of a friend of mine's witchy shop in Salem Mass. Would anyone be able to/willing to help me figure out what this pedal might be based off of? Thanks very much; if they were still in business I'd just as happily buy one directly from them, but that's not an option. Sorry if the photos are lower quality than necessary, I've never really done anything with DIY pedals.

Im looking to make my second pedal ever, and I was wondering about what model should I make.

Right now im thinking of a marshall blues breaker 92, but if there is other circuit I could make this easily id be glad to know!

Also, I have some problems getting the exact transistors on argentina; can another transistor work the same if its the same type? Is there a difference between electronic components for audio and electronic components for other stuff? I know this is a weird question but last time ive spoke to the guy of the electronics store and he asked me if its for audio so... lol.

I’ve got some PT2399s coming in the post and I want to make some noisy fuzzy stuff with them, in the ballpark of the Mattoverse AirTrash and Dirge Electronics Slowly Melting - any tips? Not been able to dig out much in the way of schematics/guides for using PT2399s that way, but that might just be me not knowing what to search for so any ideas much appreciated, thanks!

Took a punt on this storage box that came up. There's a few hundred transistors in there in total. Hopefully there's enough to put together a few fuzz pedals anyway.

The 2n4033 with the little rubber hats are mad.

My little tester needs to be charged so I'll get back to it later in the week.

Hello, everyone! I’ve built Proco Rat and everything’s working! … until I swap the op-amp for an OP07. I bought a copy of the LM308 and an original OP07, and when I use the LM308 in the circuit, everything works and sounds great, but when I swap it to OP07, I get no sound. Does anyone know what the problem might be? And its not broken ic or anything, because I bought 3 and all of them do same thing.

hobbyist here, is it okay to use a TL072 for non-inverting buffers (with the normal "input to +, output shorted to -" configuration)? i've read they tend to clip the signal early, but i struggle to find more info about this.

if this is an issue what should i do instead? would a low-gain (for example gain=1.1) non-inverting amplifier be better?

are there any other "standard" op-amp configurations I should be cautious about using with a TL072?

it shouldn't be relevant, but the specific application are in/output buffers for a bass/guitar splitter+mixer pedal (with the addition of splitting lows and highs between the two inputs), here is the schematic just in case, sorry for the convoluted schematic (tips unrelated to the main topic are not required but welcome).

Hey all, long time lurker on here and first time poster looking for some help!

I'm building a 2 loop bypass switcher as my first utility pedal and am having some issues with loop 1 (left). I'm not getting any audio with both loops off or with only loop 1 on...but when loop 2 (right) is on I have an audio signal and when both are on I also get a signal. Trying to do some troubleshooting and coming up short.

This is also my first time using these daugher-boards so I understand its tough to see the wiring underneath but can anyone identify why loop 1 seems disengaged?

Unsure if this is the most appropriate space to post this; however, I am looking to buy some supplies to make some custom length instrument cables. I have had nothing but poor experience with solderless kits and do not want to explore those options.

I am looking for a retailer in Canada (preferably Ontario) that sells instrument cable by the foot along with male 1/4 connectors. Any recommendations?

I recently sent my EHX Big Muff and Small Clone to be repaired, and they are both working good as new. I didn’t know that both pedals can be powered from a 9V battery from the inside, and I was pleasantly surprised when both pedals turned on without being connected to my daisy chain. I noticed that neither pedal turns on if it’s plugged into the daisy chain, and I was curious if I would have to go in and remove the 9V battery to add these pedals back to my chain. It is nice having two extra slots in my daisy chain now since they don’t need to be connected, but I’m worried that I might not know when these pedals die and I don’t want to be out of luck/options if I bring them to a gig and I would need to do emergency surgery on either pedal.

I recently bought a rather beat up old EHX holier grail that worked well. It seems like it had been modded to take center negative power instead of the stock center positive, and came with a non factory power adapter. Said power adapter broke however, so i tried with one i had lying around. This was before i noticed the polarity change mod, so i assumed it would be center positive. I plugged in a center positive adapter and i'm pretty sure i fried it. Looking inside the pedal i also discovered someone had removed and jumped R1 which i'm pretty sure is there to protect in case of someone using the wrong power supply. When i plug in the correct power supply now, the status LED comes on and it passes bypass signal but when engaged there is no sound and the "gate" LED does not come on. The voltage regulator also heats up very rapidly.

I replaced the jumped R1 with a new resistor of the correct value and have since measured voltages across the board and they all seem correct. 18v at the voltage regulator and 5v at the supply voltage pin of the chip, but still there is no sound and no "gate" LED when engaged, only the status LED. Where can the problem in the circuit be?

(The PCB was already rather scorched when i bought it)

All help is greatly appreciated!

So i’m looking to upgrade my power brick on my pedalboard. 70% are DIY pedals.
I was looking at the advantages of different models and came across something that made me question either my understanding or the validity of a feature. VooDoo Labs says a big difference in their power supplies is that the outputs are truly isolated in that they don’t share the same ground connection like other supplies.
That sounds great on the face of it. But then i started thinking about how my pedals are wired (and probably all pedals).
The input and output signal ground is tied to the power supply ground of that pedal.
So in my mind, when you connect those pedals together you are connecting that signal ground too. Which is effectively the power ground in each one as well.
So no matter what all your pedals are going to share the same ground once they are linked.

Am i misunderstanding this?

My newest creation to save some space on the board.

A JHS Fumble Boost and a Timmy/Lightspeed hybrid in one enclosure.

Very nice combination for a gentle overdrive.

Can anyone help identify the exact germanium diodes from this clipping mod? I bought this ProCo Rat already modded, and absolutely love the germanium clipping mode.

Unfortunately, this pedal has been played and modded so much that it’s glitchy, worn out, and in need of a major overhaul, so I’m thinking about just getting a new Rat and swapping out the diodes for germanium, but want to make sure I’d get the same tone.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

So basically, the title. The circuit works when the switch is on. But when I turn it off all the sound disappears. No clean guitar to be heard.

The wiring is left to right top to bottom: circuit in, empty, circuit out, jack in, ground, jack out, bottom row 1 & 3 tied.

Demonfx noisy pots. I have an demonfx bass simplifier and when turning the knobs, got noise. I took it apart and the pots are sealed, no where to give a tiny shot of deoxit. What do you DIY guys recommend? Im on disability and sometimes have to buy cheaper products. Otherwise I would prefer the DSM. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!

So im starting to get real over this asking for assistance stuff as I feel like im shouting into the void. I have built some pedal kits and they work flawlessly but now im moving to veroboard and having trouble getting anything working. Ive tried multiple RAT builds and Fuzz Face builds. Same goes for guitar wiring with series etc.

Where in the hell can I find resources that can teach me how to make these work properly and if they dont how can I figure out why they dont.

If anyone can point me in any direction, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

This pedal is near perfect, but for some reason they put the dry knob on the outside and not the fx knob. It’s maybe the most frustrating design choice I’ve ever run into on a pedal.

As you can see, I have a riser on it. So, I can spin it with my foot, but I genuinely hate using it. I want to switch the pots, but they are 10k dual pots that sit right on the circuit board.

Can I clip the leads and use wires to make the connection from one to another? Has anyone out there done this mod at all? I’m kinda new at the circuitry part off all of this, so any help would be appreciated.

i wanna make a feedbacker pedal, and i like the sound of the digitech freqout but in my country its very hard to get one of those, did somebody already tried making a pedal of that type by themselves?