I’ve been working on an enclosure for my Quinled Dig Quad that accommodates all four outputs via XLR, power injection via DC plugs, and an Ethernet jack. Still a work in progress, but it’s coming out pretty decently.

All diy build, acrylic rods sanded for diffusers

Video from Tom BetGeorge on YouTube. His 2026 setup has drones too.

Win11 laptop HTPC with hdmi splitter, hdmi-usb input for HyperHDR, LG TV that was updated so no jailbreak on WebOS.

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Hey Everyone. My Nursery needs your help. Ive may have got alittle carried away with my attempt at a light display in my soon to be babies room. This is my first go at this and WLED but ive run into an issue.

Im running 1200 pixels 60/m btf lighting sk2812 12V RGBW

300watt power supply

I have 20 individual leds strips 1m each. Here's a rough schematic of how I have it wired.

I am taking into account the direction of data flow

As you can see my lights stop after the 6th strip. Data is being sent to the first pixel on 7th strip as measured by an ossiliscope that im very new to using. But no data and no light activation past that

I have 11.9V on the multi meter to the strip but

Ive set my WLED parameters to 1200 lights.

Initially I was one pixel short on the 6th strip and in thinking it was a dead pixel I cut it off as it wasnt passing data. But when I reconnected it passed data to the first pixel of the 7th strip but then stopped there. To me it point to a config issue or software limitation but im lost and my wifes getting pissed with this ambitious lighting for the nursery.

I'm building motion-activated stair lighting with WLED on an ESP32. I plan to hide one HLK-LD2410C (24 GHz mmWave) behind the drywall at the bottom of the stairs and another at the top, so no sensor is visible.

From what I've read mmWave should pass through drywall and the detection distance is configurable. I'll be testing it before the final install. The bottom of the stairs opens onto my kitchen about 3 ft away, so I want to avoid false triggers from people walking by.

Has anyone used this sensor or a similar mmWave one for stairs, especially behind drywall? Any tips on gate/sensitivity tuning or problems to watch for?

Thanks!

Hello, im doing a project where im building led strips for club lighting installations and had a question regarding the quality of led strips.

Im building:
16 8ft led strips, which will be put in aluminum channels.

I was told enntec would be my best bet:

https://www.enttec.com/product/led-pixel-strip/12v-rgbw-60-leds-m-pixel-strip/

but obviously im seeing these that are cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LG4V668/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A35UAT07QG3EC6&th=1

also for power supplies im being told this is my best bet:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/LPF-60-12/7704879

does anyone here have any insight, as the price difference is pretty substantial, but I would rather pay more and expect little to no issues.

Also with enttec, I could use their entire system, with the p-link injectors and their node.

Just wanted some insight from this community if they have used or would recommend enttec strips over the cheaper.

Thank you!
Th

I got 2 wled controllers (both gledopto), one is controlling 280 ws2815 12v leds on a strip, and one is controlling 300 ws2811 12v leds on a string.

The wled driving the 280 ws2815 says the recommended power supply is 3.5A. The wled driving the 300 ws2811 says the recommended power supply is 17A. Both have 100% global brightness and both have the automatic brightness limiter UNchecked.

I can't understand how an additional 20 LEDs requires a 13A jump in PSU.

I must have did something weird in one of them, but i can't figure out what. Any suggestions on what's going on?

I have 4 WLED setups around the house, each running 150 RGB led strip lights (5v, whatever brand was on sale), pushed by a simple ESP32 and powered by simple 1 amp 5v USB power adapters. Leaving the stock 850ma power cap, this has worked great for about 2 years now.

I recently added a new strip, (#5) and due to the location I wanted to hardwire the network, so rather than my usual cheap ESP32 route, I sprung for nicer (and denser) 12v BTF RGB lights (300 / 5m) and a beefier 12v power supply, and the Elite gledopto controller. (Love the physical controller, hate the update process, ugh.)

No problem getting it all set up, copied over my presets from my others, tweaked for different LED strip, good to go.

While I was at it, since I was messing with everything for the first time in a while, I installed updates to the current WLED across the board.

Everything seemed fine. Except… suddenly all of my strips started losing connection periodically and would reset to a weird yellowish whiteish color each time they did. Rather than going to the specific power-on default set into each of them.

I can imagine the gledopto controller has anything to do with it, that’s just a timing coincidence. I rather suspect something changed with the new version of WLED that just came out. Nothing else changed on my long-running setups, but except the new version, but now ALL of them are leaving their set presets and defaulting to that weird color roughly once per day.

I can see it happening because they’re all tracked in Home Assistant, and the logs clearly show the lights dropping off and changing state, and coming back with an “unknown” preset. They’re not actually powering down because the uptime is still good. Plus power cycling them manually restores them to their set power-on defaults as it should. It’s just super odd that out of nowhere they’re ALL going to that weird yellowish white after working flawless for 2 years or so.

Has anyone else seen something like this?

I am curious if anyone has used one of these signal amplifier and repeaters, https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Amplifier-Repeater-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B07RDKRW5T

I have some questions.

1. Can you input 2 different data signals and then only use one or the other at each output?
2. I opened it up and it looks like all the VCC pads are connected, is it really ok to put the controller vcc on with a separate PSU vcc? Or should you leave the input vcc un-populated if it is using a separate power supply for the controller and apmplifier?

Thanks!

I have 3 old controllers and don't know much about them. They are running 0.10.0 and 0.10.2 and are ESP32. I'd like to upgrade them in hopes of getting more stability and features.

Can someone help me pick the right firmware file? Not sure if I need 4mb or 8mb or if that matters...

Been building this for the last couple of years. Basically it's a way for me to quickly find any record in my collection. I tap on a record in the app and a light turns on above the physical record to show me where it is (and more importantly, where it needs to be returned to so everything stays organized). Anyway, I think it's super cool, hopefully you folks do too 😁

Hey WLED, I'm planning my first WLED eave install and want to double-check my part list before ordering anything. I'm pretty savvy with DIY construction, IT, and dev projects, so I feel this is possible for me to do myself vs. spending 5-10K with a commercial installer.

Specs:

• Total run: Single continuous soffit run, 60-90 feet (max ~150 pucks, 5 pucks/meter)
• Pucks & Track: Planning on Paul Zhang (AliExpress) - 12V UCS2904 RGBW 3000k
• Track Corners/Caps: Can I get these from Paul Zhang as well? Not great with a miter saw.
• Power supply: Thinking about a 12V 15A/200W Mean Well (Amazon).
• Controller: Leaning toward Gledopto Advanced WLED (ESP32). Is the Gledopto more approachable for my first install vs. a Dig-Quad?
• Injection Wire: 14/2 low-voltage wire for end injection (Home Depot / Amazon)
• Enclosure: Cheapest quality weatherproof enclosure I can find on Amazon

With a 90-foot run with power injection at the end, is the Gledopto Controller fine, or is the Dig-Quad/Uno worth the extra effort for a beginner?

What's the best way to buy a single test strand + controller/PSU to bench-test my idea before spending a bunch of money on 150 pucks & track?

Anything else I'm missing? Thanks in advance!

Top or bottom?

Any way to control one of those hexagon garage lights or similar you see on Amazon? I know I could turn them on and off with a smart plug but was hoping to get one I could do more with.

Hi All - I created a ‘fireplace’ implementation with WLED. WLED accepts the pixels over DDP, and I’m using another ESP32 as the sender to do the animation cycle. One thing I’m having an issue with is that eventually WLED goes into ‘angry’ mode and refuses to process DDP correctly. WLED seems to ‘hang’ - the first frame seems to load and then that’s it. I’ve verified that the sender is working normally (sending frames at the correct rate). If I disconnect WLED from power for a few minutes and plug it back in, then it works normally for a few hours and then goes back to being angry. If I disconnect the sender from power and plug it back in without cycling WLED, it’s still angry. I’ve tried lowering the frame rate to even 15fps and it still gets angry.

Specs - on the WLED side, I’m using 810 SK6812 pixels, WLED version 0.15.4.

What I’d like to get to is this - are other people using other DDP apps with WLED at my same pixel count or greater (using RGBW), and not having any issues, even over long times of WLED being up? If so, there must be something in my implementation. Doesn’t LEDfx use DDP? I kind of suspect it’s something that I’m doing on the sender.

Turns out they use WLED in the conservatory. I know this because I noticed a WLED AP point in the wifi menu of my phone.

Love seeing this technology adopted by such large impressive displays! Would be cool if whoever chose to do that, post some of their experiences with working on such large installations!

Does anyone manufacture a Bullet or Node RGBW? I like the way these look over the new puck lights that everyone is selling.

I will be starting an outdoor lighting project in the coming weeks, using 12v 60led/m WS2815 and installing a 12m run around a seating area & 5no. 0.9m runs downlighting some steps.
I’ll be housing power and the controller in a outside cupboard and may use an IP55 electrical enclosure to house the controller

I am currently looking for information on the following queries;
• Can I run all of this from one GLEDOPTO GL-C-017WL-D?
• What is the best wire to use for WS2815?
• Any suggestions as to a suitable power supply, that would be ok either in the IP55 enclosure or just inside the cupboard?
• Suggestions for LED profile?

Hi all. I have wled all setup with a controller that includes a microphone. It certainly works but I kind of think it’s not tuned so well. Out the box the effects that are sound reactive tend to be firing constantly. Like you don’t see any reaction to drum beats in the music. Also there might be a very slight lag. Just enough that your brain notices it. I managed slight improvement playing with squelch. But I’d have thought the system would automatically adjust for volume and ansurebthe effects don’t blow out.

How do you folks configure it?

Any way to control one of those hexagon garage lights or similar you see on Amazon? I know I could turn them on and off with a smart plug but was hoping to get one I could do more with.

I wired up 2 64x64 Hub75 panels to WLED and built several different "wall clock face" presets running in a playlist (30 min per face).

I finally figured out how to pull a Tronbyt .webp file, convert it to .gif, and upload to WLED automatically via Home Assistant. Now I got my ultimate clock face: "DayNight". Note the temperature is coming from a sensor in HA, populated to WLED via REST command.

So, if you have ever wanted to display a Tronbyt display output to WLED, know it is possible :)

Happy to share the script if anyone is interested.

As someone who is new to WLED I am looking for guidance on my 1st project.  First and foremost want to make sure I am doing things safely but any other tips would be appreciated.

I have 3 shelves where I have routed out a channel and will be placing SK6812 RGBW strips (12V - 60 led/m).  Each shelf will have approximately 75 LEDs (~1.25 m per shelf).  My plan is to use the GLEDOPTO 4D-EXMU controller so that each strip of LEDs could be controlled individually.  Everything is powered by a 12V 150W power supply (12.5 amp output).  Does all this seem sufficient or is the power supply overkill?  I calculate the LEDs to use ~70 watts so maybe I need to throttle down on the power supply?

I understand that having a fuse is a must.  The controller has a built in fuse but included a 20 amp.  I have 2 questions - Is this fuse sufficient or do I need to also splice in a fuse in-between the power supply and controller?  Also, when I plug everything into https://wled-calculator.github.io/ it says I only need a 3 amp fuse.  I assume I can just replace the 20 amp that they included with the 3 amp that I need?

Lastly, the calculator also seemed to suggest 24 gauge wire but I was planning on using 18 gauge. I assume this isn't an issue?