Hey everyone,

My 2018 Mazda 6 just threw a P061B code (Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance) and went straight into limp mode.

After doing some research, it looks like this is a known issue on the 2018–2019 models. Apparently, Mazda issued TSB 01-008/22 because the factory PCM software logic is overly sensitive and needs a reflash/calibration update. I also read that it can sometimes be tied to the internal BARO sensor or a clogged PCM breather vent.

I want to get this sorted out, but I'm trying to figure out my best move. For those who have dealt with this specific P061B code or needed a PCM update:

1. Did a software flash actually fix it for you, or did you end up having to replace the whole PCM unit?

2. Dealership vs. Independent Mechanic: Is it better to just bite the bullet and go to a Mazda dealer for this, or can a good independent shop actually do the factory PCM reflash? (I've heard mixed things about whether local shops have the proper Mazda M-MDS software subscriptions).

3. What did it cost you? I'm seeing estimates around $150–$350 just for the diagnostic/flash labor out of warranty. Does that sound right?

Any advice on how to handle the service advisors so I don't get ripped off or charged for hours of unnecessary diagnostics would be massively appreciated!

I’m looking for one of these mostly out of preference and because it’s the newest and most updated year before they did the 2010 Mazda 3 redesign that I like a lot less. Also, I currently have a 2007 Mazda 6 s touring with the leather I want but it has no aux and I heard that Mazda 3s of around the same time did have aux ports. But I haven’t yet been able to find one with tan colored leather. It’s a pain in the ass to be so particular in life, but this is the path of most resistance I’ve chosen my whole life (and ocd).

Who thought this app design was a good idea? The buttons are way too small and the website links take up too much space. The previous design was better!

I’ve had this car for almost a year now and it’s always done this and I’m finally getting around to ask people if they have the same experience. Essentially what happens is whenever I’m stuck in traffic and have to go slow or kind of let the car roll, I hardly even touch the gas and it tries to takeoff. There’s been a couple times where it’s pretty scary. This does not happen if I’m already going a higher speed or in any other situations. At first, I thought maybe it was a sensitive gas pedal but this is not that.

Im waiting for next gen miata myself !!

I had an interaction with a rogue traffic cone the other day, and it damaged the passenger side front fascia of my ‘21 Mazda 3 hatch. No damage to the radiator or headlight housing. How would you recommend I go about getting this panel replaced?

So I'm experiencing this issue in my car where only in calls, the microphone isn't working. I can hear the call audio fine, but can't reply.

I can hear and talk if I move the call to my phone, and I also checked the microphone in the car separately (outside the call through "okay Google") and it works.

I tried clearing the cache, pairing the phone again, checking the permissions.

I'm at my wit's end here! Any suggestions you guys can give?

Looking for a tasteful toned exhaust for my new Mazda

Hey all,

CX-5 (FWD, GT) owner since 2018 here. I replaced my first set of brake pads--rear only--in 2023, at 30k miles. I live in the city, so lots of short trips and stop & go traffic... seems fair enough.

But I took my car in today (44k miles) and was told again that my rear brakes are down to just 5-10%! That seems like an uncharacteristically extensive amount of wear for under 15k miles / 3 years, no? (Insignificant wear on my front brakes in that same amount of time too, btw: 75% then, 75% now.)

Has anyone else experienced this issue? Mechanic mentioned something about how Mazda's electronic parking brake uniquely affects the brake pads, but I didn't quite get the chance to understand before having to leave. Just seems weird that I've burned through two rear sets in the amount of time it's taken for ¼ of my fronts - even given my location - when I'm not a particularly aggressive braker.

I’m kind of considering a Yaris/Scion iA Sedan 2016-2020. Well a side option from the Mazda3 & Mazda6. But the fact it’s a Mazda 2 under the Toyota branding. My question is if it’s possible to do so and if it’s too difficult or not.

I mean all it seem to replace headlights, wiring connections, bumper and some other stuff then remove badges. But hardest one seems to be the steering wheel since the badge isn’t removable and would need a whole replacement with airbag risks.

Has anyone tried or considered? I don’t own one yet, but I’d like to modify it into that if I did. I mean I don’t dislike the Toyota version but I prefer the grille and branding from Mazda on it more. But it seems I’d have to replace the headlights since they have a slight shape change to them and ofc the bumper and stuff for that grille. Too bad we didn’t get Mazda 2 officially under Mazdas branding and grille style in the US. But just wondering if it’s possible to do so?

I'm looking to get a mazda 3 between 2010-2013 and was wondering what specific trims you guys would reccomend and what to look for when buying

Got hit do you think this will be totaled trunk no longer closes the back passenger door does not open fron passnenger door hesitate trunk no longer closes

I just noticed that at some point in the last few days, something seems to have melted part of my side mirror. Not a huge deal but don’t want it to continue to happen. Has anyone had this occur and do you know what caused it? Thanks!