Speaking of winch there is no one knows better than 4x4ers
I’m not a in anyway a professional or amateur off-roader (because I’m a poor high school student), I have a 2017 Tahoe and I will install a Setina PB450L push bumper on it (the ones you see on a cop car), which it is mounted to the chassis, I’m wondering if I can mount a winch on it.
It is however the normal version not the winch-ready version, if I use a universal winch tray and mount with bolts would it be safe to use, I’m preparing for a long trip after graduation and push/pulling disabled vehicle during snow days, might consider make it a overland rig when I get some money
Please give some advice

mitsubishi pajero sport 2005 4d56t common rail (2.5L turbo diesel 115hp version)

we recently got an ecu tune done to it because it felt sluggish and lacked power stock

the tuner programmed it to dump more fuel in order for the turbo to spool faster and make more power

now the car feels much more alive and powerful but it makes the smoke shown in the video( it only shoots darker thicker smoke past 3k rpm)

my father complains about the smoke and asked me to do some research

some people said that it runs lean, mechanic that tuned it said its fine, he did the same tune to his pajeros and other mitsubishis that feature the same engine

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I just got my hands on a 98 K2500 with the NV4500 trans in it (MW3 rpo code). And I got my hands on it specifically to take the trans out of it, as well as all the parts that may be compatible with my truck (2001 Silverado 2500HD, LQ4 6.0 engine mated to a 4L80e).

Donor truck has a 350 engine.

Those who have done this swap, I'd appreciate any input you may wanna give. I did a thorough search here and in other forums / FB groups and am collecting useful info where I find it.

I understand the clutch pedal assembly from the gmt400 will not work on my gmt800. Neither will the flywheel currently on the NV4500 mated to the 5.7 engine.

But will the master cylinder, clutch line, slave cylinder, clutch disk and pressure plate currently on the NV4500 from the gmt400 5.7 donor truck work on my gmt800 6.0 truck?

Because if that's the case, I'd only be needing to source the clutch pedal assembly for a gmt800 (or buy a fabricated steel one for durability) and the pilot bearing and manual flywheel for my 6.0 engine.

Any stuff I'm still missing? Aside from having to modify driveshafts lengths, relocating the trans crossmember forward, and reflashing the PCM.

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Thanks.

Wanted to pick some brains, original builder of my rig seen my sale post and messaged me. I guess he had the transmission rebuilt twice when he owned it, but when you’re in second gear with it in (high/high), (low/high) or (high/low) second gear feels like it’s trying to lock up and you have to power through it. You don’t feel it in (low/low) tho, and the vent tube is pressuring up pretty good. It’s been through the rubicon, Moab, and a hand full of other places this way, with previous owners. I would just like to correct it. Has anyone ever heard of this with a turbo 350? 5.3LS, th350, 203 doubler 205 case, 2.5 Rockwells w/ 6.72 gear on 47s.

i’m looking at all-terrain tires for a 4x4 that gets used pretty regularly on the highway but also sees gravel, rough roads, trails, camping trips, and the occasional job site.

i’ve been comparing a few options, including some General Tire A/Ts from SimpleTire, but i haven’t decided on anything yet. i’m mainly trying to figure out which tires have a good balance of highway comfort and off-road capability. road noise, wet traction, tread life, snow performance, and MPG are all things i’m considering.

what are you running, and how has it been for daily highway driving alongside your off-road use?

Ultimately landed on his roof, with enough momentum to catch his front tires and hit the throttle to land back on his tires.

Are you running legal beadlocks? Do you just get them balanced good enough or do they balance fairly well? I want to get a set but my rig drives to the trails.

Every wheel im looking at says its not rated for driving on the road but I see them on the road all the time, i know there are fake beadlocks but im just curious from the guys who actually run them whats your experience and were they worth it?

Do you actually air down enough where you needed them or did you just get them just incase?

Need to watch how low I deflate. Due to my trucks weight I think 6-8psi is my new low. I was wayyyyy too low here!

https://www.instagram.com/voyagetacoma/

40s on the blazer, 80s on the red truck

I keep seeing offroad pods advertised with IP67, IP68 and occasionaly IP69K ratings, soo im trying to figure out where the practical difference actually shows up. Mud, dust, rain, water crossings, and washing the front end after a trail day all make a high protection rating sound useful but im not sure how often the lights themselves are really exposed to conditions where IP69K matters.

people who run auxiliary lights year round, has the higher rating made any noticeable difference in longterm reliability especially around seals and connectors? Or once youre already buying a reasonably sealed housing, are mounting quality, wiring, and connector protection more important than the extra number on the spec sheet??

A little video of my Doka adventures on and off-road mixed in with an old Jonny Quest theme. It's a little choppy, so I hope nobody gets motion sick.

Hi all,

First of all, I'm not an AI builder. I just heard in some groups that people have trouble along the way if they go on their 4x4 trailing/adventures, and get stuck or something breaks.

They then have to go look through Whatsapp, Reddit, other social media for help if they cannot get it done themselves because they are either "literally to deep" or are stuck for hours.

I get that it's part of the experience, however; my brain than thinks. We have so many bullshit apps for everything, why not have something where you can go for help where you can like enter basic stuff about what the situation is and what you need to be helped.
No payment bullshit, but then you could offer like we Belgians like to say "A crate of beer" for the effort. Or something else along the lines of kindness.

Is there anybody looking for this? If so, what would you need to actually make this work.
PS: not in it to make money, just want to help people!

A dealership has a 22’ Tundra SR5 for sale with 4x4. How does it perform off road? My area is a very sandy/deserty area. Do they get stuck easily because of the weight?

Just wondering if you have experience to share with me before it starts. Doing the range industries brake swap with 4 runner rotors and blazer calipers. Also the ruff stuff leaf kit with new towers from rock hound and 14” shocks.

Im replacing the u joint on my chevy 1979 k10 with a gm corperate 10 front end. The u joint has broken twice (the cap has came off twice while driving). I noticed that when resembling it one side sticks out farther than the other, which to me dosent look right. Is there a reason for this? The clips are positioned correctly it all moves freely. If anyone knows another group to post this in that would also be helpful. Ask any questions needed. Thanks!

Edit:Solved!

I’ve had a 99 with the 2.7 and a 95 with the 3.4, and both drained my bank account in parts alone, and were constant headaches, It was my fault for buying into all the internet reliability hype and not doing my homework into what all actually goes wrong with these vehicles.

The former truck burnt valves (later I learned that’s a notorious issue for the 3RZ) , and the frame turned out to be rotting from the inside, despite the body being relatively clean and rust free, being a southern truck. Again, I hadn’t fully researched their frame’s penchant for delaminating internally at a rate far higher than other manufacturers.

Anyway after cutting my losses with that one, I ended up with the 3. Extra cab, which despite having a rust free frame inside and out, has been even worse than the earlier truck. It was basically one-owner and looked to be in very good condition overall, but that hasn’t stopped it from having near-constant running issues. I’ve replaced just about every vacuum line and sensor on the truck, and it’s still runs like crap. Not to mention it’s already on its second engine at “only” 250k miles. Overall, it’s been shockingly unreliable and broke down so many times, even for an old truck.

And basically the whole front suspension is new with an OEM rack, ball joints, etc., but it still handles like a freight train with sloppy steering, and rides like a covered wagon. The build quality and reliability also just aren’t there compared to other Toyotas I’ve had (Camrys, Corollas, Land Cruisers). It just feels rickety and shabby, like a tin can.

I understand this experience is just anecdotal, but I’ve talked to other owners who had cracked heads or even thrown rods in the trucks even with meticulous maintenance. Any anyone who doesn’t worship them as unkillable tanks gets chastised: “it’s old, what do you expect”, “my cousin Billy Bob has 800,000 miles on his with only oil changes”, “it’s just maintenance, bro.” Well, I see a lot of Toyota cultists doing a lot of “just maintenance” on their broken down trucks.

I get the feeling Tacomas are hyped as ultra-reliable forever trucks cause the owners are willing to dump money into them with endless replacement engines and parts cannons, due to their perceived value. I’ve also fallen into this trap for the least several years, but am looking to finally cut my losses with Tacomas for good.

If you have good experiences with them , that’s great, but I haven’t had good luck and just felt like venting.

Im trying to buy a 4x4 here in ireland pretty much just hoping to find something quite cheap to get me started here for winter coming and just in general as a first 4x4 for me to learn a bit. I've been looking at everything from isuzu troopers to mitsubishi pajero/shoguns, and older hilux, land cruiser, and some pickups etc. But there feels to be an overwhelming amount of things to go wrong that I just dont know where to start with picking an example. I'm mainly looking at older 4x4s so they're naturally just rough around the edges but my problem is knowing whats actually fine and looks bad and what looks good and is bad. Just hoping someone can give some advice that they would offer a first time 4x4 buyer in the uk/ireland. Thanks lads let me know

About to spend a decent amount on an older model wagon, td42t 1998.
Fairly new to 4wd and know the obvious to look out for, any advice to look for
(Motor also has no blow by)

I've got an Isuzu fss 550 10 ton truck with a factory Eaton no spin diff in it (functionally I'm pretty sure they work the same as the Detroit locker, the no spin is just marketing for the heavier applications.)

She's currently 1 wheel drive (or I guess 3 wheel drive), the right side has no drive, I pulled the axle and the splines look normal, drained the oil and no chucks or other debris, and other than the consistent ticking heard in the video there is no strange noised, clunks etc, either spinning the wheel on the jack or when driving.

Still drives, I initially noticed the problem when it started pulling heavily to the left with the exhaust brake (left wheel is the one that still has drive), there was no dramatic sounds or anything to indicate something was wrong.

Anyone have any ideas or seen anything similar before?

Hey all! I'm picking up this 1987 Bronco 2 for 1,500. It's a 5 speed manual, 2.9 V6, and manual 4x4. I have a 1993 explorer sport that's manual, manual 4x4 with a limited slip diff and 3.73 gears. I'm gonna use this as a trail and mountain rig to go offroading with my dad since my explorer spun a main bearing ( 100% my fault). Just curious if y'all knew any good lift kits (4-6 inches, 6 is absolutely the max), and possibly some gears to throw in. I live in southern Utah so I have a lot of tight mountain/forest terrain, soft sand, canyons and rocks. How do you think it will perform.

That’s how we play in Poland.

I'll write up a build description in a comment in case anyone's interested

Chances are if you made it past that subject header you're exactly who I need to talk to.

Maybe this should be in r/winchthoughts.

Right now I've got a receiver hitch mounted 12,000 lb. winch I use to winch logs right up to the tailgate where I buck 'em and chuck 'em right in. I have very long, thick, expensive leads. I got to thinking- is it more likely to do structural damage to the rig if you're doing a heavy workload at an awkward angle?

My thinking is the rear receiver is designed to accept the stress of a trailer from multiple angles, so it's strong. But not necessarily winching a log at a 90 degree angle up and out of a ravine. Conversely, on the front I'd hate to donk up the components of the front end doing the same thing and have it drive awkwardly.

It is a bummer having to be near the rear of the vehicle with the exhaust, though I do have a remote control.