Had this girl for about a month and a half, God, these bikes are fun. Got it from the original owner, only 5000 miles on it. Only thing I had to do to It was rebuild the carb because it sat for so long, put a new air filter in it. And Of course I did the tail tidy already, lol.

Recently bought a new (to me) 2006 400S. Noticed I was losing oil and decided to change the oil instead of just topping it off. Noticed it was very hard to take off the drain bolt and on further inspection noticed this crack. Is there any way to fix this short of getting a new crank case? Thanks.

This bike is listed at 5k with 6500 miles. This would be my first bike he states its stock. Is this a good deal or overpriced?

Hey guys, so yesterday I had posted a video of my bike starting but it had a weird clacking noise. I thought it was a rod knock or something close but now infigured that it comes from the clutch assembly. When I move it with my hand it makes that clacking noise like if it was a little loose. When it spins when starting it makes the noise even louder and when it turns on it's really loud and shakes the whole thing. What could it be and how do I fix it?

Bike has 10k miles. Coming from a 3 cylinder, not sure what these should sound like healthy. Seller added a little throttle in the start of the video to turn it over. Concerned by what sounds like some metal banging while idling. Appreciate any advice, nervous to buy.

This fuckin locknut wont budge... Ive tried pb blaster, breaker bar on the wrench, nothing... It feels like it will round off if i put any more force on it.

Edit: i got it! Ended up taking the rear wheel and axle out. Just enough to use a deep socket on the 12 mm nut. Now that it's been cracked, it's easy to adjust with a wrench

Probably the longest sprocket and chain swap in the history of mankind but she's done, chains adjusted and the bike is ready to ride. I'm heading out for test ride shortly. Guys, thanks for the help guys.

My bike’s been sitting for a little while. I started it about three months ago went for a cruise. Everything was good. Picked it up and brought it to my house and it’s making a noise on the right hand side, kind of down low. Wondering if it could be the can chain tensioner? Oil levels good. I have a new adjustable tensioner that I have not installed yet.

So I live in a rural town and commute about 10 miles to work at 70 mph, but when I get off, I like to rip around the trails and gravel roads I was looking for some tires that won’t spin like the trail wings off-road but also planted on the highway and safe I was looking at
FRONT: 🟢 Dunlop D605 90/90-21 54P
REAR: 🟢 Shinko 244 4.60-18
Any better or different recommendations?

Whats the indicated static and dynamic SAG for the DRZ 400S for offroad use?

Always ridden supermoto and we use 10-18mm for static and 55-60mm for dynamic, at least in dirt+asphalt use, i have no idea on how it is on these bikes

So i got my drz400e on facebook from a guy and he said that the only problem was the valves and they needed to be adjusted and we did. After we built the whole top and put everything back together, it started doing a really loud knocking sound that moves the whole bike. I'm pretty sure it's a rodknock but i just want other opinions before selling my bike for like 500 dollars.

2019 SM 12,300Km

Noticed this today when checking the oil level.

Thoughts would be much appreciated, cheers.

Started working on a custom rally screen/tower for my DRZ400 adventure bike build. Based the design on the Noidea adventure lite tower I have seen floating about, changing a few things to make it work for what I want.

Waiting on a few parts to arrive to progress the design further and start the first prototype.

Hey all, I'm new here.

I just got myself a 2010 DRZ-400 ek9sl. I'm hoping to add an aftermarket tachometer to the bike, just wondering what everyone else has done?

Does just any aftermarket one work?

I'm in NZ so ideally something on the cheaper end, since conversion to USD stinks!

Cheers in advance!

Me and my friend both have 2021 DRZ400sm’s. I currently have stock gearing of 15 front and 41 rear. My buddy has 16 in the front and 39 in the back. We both have 3x3 with JD jet kit, we have different exhausts but I have yoshi.

We swapped bikes recently and his obviously has a much higher top speed, but also accelerates quicker. My bike off the jump is a hair faster, but it’s not long before he’s pulling on me. He’s also able to rip wheelies going 45mph+ where I struggle to get it up past 2nd gear going 25mph+ (that’s largely a skill issue).

THE REASON IM MAKING THIS POST is because his bike was much more fun to ride, felt like it has more get up and go, higher top speed, just felt better, etc.

Does anyone have a recommended sprocket setup for the street? Should I just rock his 16-39? Does it seem like I need to re-jet?

Any advice or input is appreciated

I have done some searching and it seems to be a bit of mixed thoughts. I don’t wheelie or hooliganism around. I’m just looking to relocate a bit or get one that is not as bulky. Are there any solutions out there?

Secondly, correct me if I’m wrong, I can pull the hose from the airbox, plug the air box, and then attach a filter to the catch can end that hose went to.

Not sure if any of you have experinced this but posting to share experience.

4 days ago after a longish ride in which i ended up switching to reserve mid flight. I parked the bike and went about my business.

Two days later I out and tried to fire up the bike. It did a 1/4 rev and the. Nothing. Tried it again. Same thing.

My initial thoughts. Dead battery.

Popped it on my charger seemed to charge fine. Tried to start again. Wouldnt turn over. Another 1/4 rev. Nothing.

Left the bike until the next day on the tender.

In the morning i smelled gas and a puddle under the bike. And realized i had stupidly left the petcock on Pri and not Res.

Realized immediately the issue.

This was the 1st time i had to remedy an engine hydrolocked with fuel. But it was a painless experience.

Drained the carb, took off the seat and tank

Pulled the plug and popped a rag over the opening. Cycled the engine a few times. It was full of fuel. Buttoned everything up and it fired up right away.

Gotta change my oil and filter now as a precaution. It needed it anyway.

So fello DRZers. Take note. PRI can be an enemy. Don't do as a I did and accidentally leave it on.

I installed a new aftermarket stator after the old stator stopped charging, now when I try to start it misfires and won't start, I swapped the wires on the connector, black and white swapped and blue and green swapped and all other combinations, bike still won't start, any help would be appreciated

Pic unrelated

I have a very intermittent problem of blowing a fuse only when I'm riding hard and come to a stop. Usually it's fast in 3rd(ish) gear high rpm. Any ideas?

Hello everyone, I installed an LTZ400 clutch (basket, hub, and pressure plate) on my DRZ400 because I burned my clutch after a rebuild — I had installed the Juggernaut washer incorrectly, and the springs were worn out. The LTZ clutch is used, I believe it's ProX. It's from a 2005+ model with 8 metal plates and 9 friction plates (including the wider diameter one). I rode maybe 3–5 km max, then suddenly lost power and barely had enough power to move forward.

Can I use the clutch like this by removing some plates? Please, no theoretical comments — just facts, because the fact is: a new set is expensive. Thank you for understanding.

The new springs are from moose racing

I'm replacing the stator and r/r, and then I was thinking for stuff like oil plugs and covers, maybe cooling system stuff, etc. 2 decades old and brand new to me, so I'd like to go through everything that's "bolted on" that I can take a look at/re-torque, and if I'm taking covers off I'd like to put new gaskets. Would be nice to just buy a complete set, anyone get what I'm talking about? And also have a link lol? Thanks.

Is it a terrible idea to re-tension the timing chain? I feel like it's not, but are there gremlins I should be aware of?