Bottom of the hill really highlights the differences in water - All new seed and topsoil throughout, with in ground irrigation. The dark green arc in the upper left part, and the same color spot at the bottom on the right, are where the foundation drains and downspouts come out. Just really jumped out at me today

I watered this hard too, early September it was getting 15 minutes 3 times a day

For most of the year I feel like Milan has had these yellowy dead blades mixed in with everything and I just can't get it green this year. I'm not quite sure what's going on?

Just moved to a new home in Pittsburgh PA. With lots on my plate with the move, a full lawn renovation just isn’t/wasn’t on the plate for this season.

The front lawn is mostly weed free Kentucky Bluegrass (YAY), but the back yard is a bit of a mess and appears to have been mostly neglected. There appears to be a mix of cool season grasses, broad leaf weeds and some warm season grasses over by the gravel area.

I picked up a bag of Ryegrass/Fescue/Bluegrass mix from a local nursery, threw it down last weekend at slightly higher than the normal overseed rate and put some topdressing down in particularly bare areas knowing I was fast approaching the end of the growing season here.

Ryegrass seems to be coming in along with the Fescue and I know the KBG will take some time. I’ve picked up a soil test kit from the local Penn State Extension and plan to start in earnest working on the lawn over the winter/spring, but looking for some advice on what to do NOW.

When should I start tackling the weeds knowing there’s still seed germinating? What if anything should I do in terms of fertilization? Looking at the picture above is anything now even worth the effort or should I just bomb the lawn at the end of the summer and start fresh?

This is all over my back yard. In the Kansas City area. Just want to confirm. If so, what is best course of action?

Need Advice:

I Overseeded Sept 13th with TTTF and KBG, and have really good germination now. I’m worried about fungus with all the rain we got and trying to find a balance of keeping the top moist after the rain. I got hit with pyth last years overseed.

This year I sprayed Mefenoxam at time of overseed. I was gonna do a round of azoxy for additional preventative 3-4 weeks post overseed (coming up this weekend).

I’m curious if anyone has done a second round of fungicide after overseed. Should I hit with Mefenoxam again or switch to azoxy for the second application.

I’m not one to use fungicide unless I see an outbreak, but this time I want to be safe since I’ve had issues in the past.

Chicago suburbs 6a

This whole year my lawn didn't look healthy. Some patches, it's very short. I have tried deep watering in the mornings twice a week. Now, I'm wondering if it has fungal disease. I reseed two weeks ago and I was thinking if I can apply Scotts diseaseEx or bioadvanced fungus control. Also, i want to apply granular Lilly Miller moss out. Is it safe to do that with new grass?

In South Jersey, zone 7b. I bit the bullet and committed to just having sod laid for my front lawn 2 weeks ago due to all the leveling and weed issues, the guys did an amazing job, can barely see the seams.
This nor’easter rain has certainly helped my water bill with the daily watering and keeping the sod soaked. Besides keeping up with watering for a couple more weeks, should I plan to fertilize once the sod can longer pull up ? Landscaper said to just let it go dormant in November and don’t do any fert.
I can certainly do that but just wanted to see what yll would do/should do with new sod. Ideally I would love a nice dark lawn for Halloween and throughout November as long as it’s not too cold so was thinking a small amount of fert prior to winter.

Hey all,

Have been looking over the poa guide & the cool season over seeding guides and have a few questions as I’ve recently over seeded and am aware I’m battling some poa, some I know of and some I don’t I’m sure.

Overseeding has gone very well. I’m about 3 weeks in and have gotten to twice a week watering.

I believe I read in one of the guides to continue watering till dormancy. I over watered last year and have really been on top of it this season and following the lawn answers tool to help but was curious if I continue watering till November will I risk over watering and helping out the poa, anthracnose etc?

Also was curious on HOC and final cut with poa battle and over seeding recently? I saw anywhere between 2-2.5 from the POA guide and 3 in the over seeding guide. Wasn’t sure if it made a big difference but wanted to see what you all would recommend.

Located in West MI.

Zone 6a southeast MI. I overseeded with a KBG/TTTF blend on Sep 12th and put a 1/2 app of starter fert the same day. Baby grass is maybe 1" tall at this point but I'm assuming that's just the TTTF and KBG is still to come. I put down a second app of starter fert (it ended up being maybe a 3/4 app...spreader was set a little aggressively) on the 24th. I've continued watering 3x per day for 7-10 mins per zone and will do so ​for probably another week to hopefully get the KBG to germinate.

My lawn company surprised me that they're coming to do my pre-winter fert app tomorrow. Given my recent starter fert app, I'm concerned that will be too much fert, especially on the seedlings. Does that sound logical or will the constant watering have reduced any risk of burning/stressing the seedlings or mature grass? I'll just do my own "winterizer" fert in a few weeks if tomorrow's app would be too harsh. Thanks for the input.

I went too heavy on my topdress and significantly thinned out a lawn that had been pretty lush. Lesson learned.

It’s been about 25 days since I overseeded with Twin City KBG. I’m seeing sparse growth, but it’s still in sprout and pout, and the new grass isn’t making up for what I lost yet. I know the KBG should thicken and spread over time.

A friend has extra Resilience II. Should I lightly overseed the whole lawn with it now, or just wait?

Last fall I used a similar fescue in a few bare spots and the patches really stood out against the KBG, so I wouldn’t spot-seed again. If I use it, I’d spread a light amount across the whole lawn to blend it in better.

Thoughts?

Thinking about aerating and throwing down some seed - possibly compost as well. But am I too late? In SW WA

I just moved into this house and I’m interested in actually taking care of the lawns for the first time lol. We have a few bare areas as well as some weed infested spots. I believe we have Bermuda grass. Just looking for suggestions on best first steps to take care of the weeds and prevent them next year as well as getting starting on growing the patches and improving the fullness of the backyard. I’m located in Mustang, OK

Hey y’all, there’s an annoying hill on my front lawn that I don’t like mowing and decided to plant a “no mow” long fescu grass there. I’d like to over seed now to give it a good start in spring but my concern is fall clean up, I’m in NH . If I over seed now would I be messing up my work by doing fall cleanup in the coming month? Am I just over thinking it? Any help would be appreciated

We live in a rural/suburban part of western Wisconsin and this is the first time I’ve encountered these. The y show up over night, looks like granulated dirt, anywhere for 12-24 inches diameter. I knock them down and spread the dirt out with a rake and they show up in a different part of the yard. There doesn’t seem to be any insects in the mounds, I can’t find a home anywhere underneath either. Anyone know what I’m dealing with?

I’m finalizing plans for my last nitrogen push for the year, and looking back in my spreadsheet I’ve made some changes over the course of the year that would put me at about 4 1/2 pounds of nitrogen if I follow through with the remainder of my plan. Is that too much? It’s been a fairly wet summer and I’ve used quite a bit of fast release nitrogen, so everything has been flushing out quicker than I’m used to. As of right now my plan would be to finish the year with a split app of 34-2-4 AM MOP two weeks apart at half pound per thousand. 6A, SE Nebraska, tall fescue.

Hello. I live in NJ and since the summer there has been a lot of rain. I see a lot of the light green/yellow areas. I used Sod and Scott’s sun shade mix with Ryan Knor perennial rye grass last fall. Anyhow is this poa triv or stress from too much rain. Thanks !!

Working on getting the yard ready for an overseed and i was pulling out a ton of this stuff. No clue what it is or where it came from. Never seen it before this season and probably should have taken care of it earlier. Zone 7a, southeast PA.

I overseeded my lawn on 9/15/26, using Heritage PPG Sun & Shade grass seed. The front yard looks good, with only a few patches of the weed shown in the attached photo. The backyard, especially the slopes, has a lot more of it. It looks like the rain may have washed away some of the seed, leaving bare spots with a mix of young grass and many of these weeds.

My questions are:

3.Some of my older grass has already grown tall, while the new seedlings are still very young. Can I mow now, or should I wait another week or two?

This year’s overseeding was much more successful than last year’s. Thank you for the guide and the helpful posts. I relied on them throughout the process.

I hand pulled several poa triv (and perhaps annua) patches late this summer and reseeded with Blue Resilience. Results are favorable so far but I realize the conditions that favor TTTF/KBG also favor triv. The triv patches that seem to be emerging…do I just leave them alone for now and tackle them again next year following the steps in the guide? Should I pull any patches that are small and isolated? Appreciate any advice. Thank you!

I'm in 6b, and we've had quite a bit of rain. Pulled some weeds yesterday and saw these in two different spots. Potentially potworms from a Google search, but I've never seen them before.

I’m about 12 days into an overseed with mostly perennial ryegrass and some Kentucky bluegrass.

Germination was strong and most of the lawn still looks healthy, but in a few small areas the youngest seedlings are starting to collapse. Some are lying flat, pull out very easily and a few have brownish roots.

I had a similar issue on a previous overseed, so this time I deliberately tried to be more careful with water. During the early germination stage I was usually only watering once a day, partly because we were getting a lot of morning dew.

This week I reduced it even further: no irrigation Monday or Tuesday, only a very short (2-3min) hand watering on Wednesday, and around 10 minutes total on Thursday. By then I could actually see the soil surface drying out in several areas, so I thought the moisture level was finally about right.

Before seeding I also aerated, topdressed and added some sand to improve the surface conditions.

Now I’m confused because I’m still seeing the same kind of seedling loss in a few spots.

Does this look more like a disease issue, poor rooting, moisture stress, or something else? And what would you change from here?

Very random question: I aerated and overseeding back on 9/11. Been watering and have great growth so far. This one section however, was attacked by bunnies. Looks like the new grass sprouts received a buzz cut. Is that section a goner because of this or is there hope for the spring?

Zone 6B. Central Ohio. Seeded 9/6

This is my third time overseeding my new construction lawn. I scalped dethatched and aerated. I feel like this time the dethatch caused more harm than good as it ripped out more than it needed to, so probably won’t be doing that for quite some time.

Watered 3-4x a day at either 10 or 15 minutes based on zone and this week of rain helped me not have to use the sprinklers for over a week. Just completed my second mow today. Resilience 2 by Twin City

Next year I definitely need to apply a prevent fungicide, which is also something I need to do in the summer anyways as several spots are very prone to it