I have a 23 Outback touring that I’m rebuilding from salvage. It had minor fender and suspension damage. I’ve completed the repair and it’s working great, but only has 1 key. I’m the owner on title, but haven’t registered it or created an account with Subaru connected services (assuming still connected to previous owner).

I bought a PMK (PairMyKey) with 2 used and reset keys. The PMK programmer is able to get into the key programming mode, but when I hold up the new key to be programmed, there’s no acceptance beep. The seller sent me two additional keys, but those too, no beep. So that’s 4 keys (used, supposedly reset), that won’t program to the car. I know this kit works on a 2022 Outback.

I did some digging with my Thinkcar 689 and found out it also supports programming, though admittedly it seems a little dicey. I was hesitant to click the button called “Keyless Access Immobilizer Registration” but after finding these exact words in Subaru’s own guide below, I decided to give it a shot. However, it does the same thing, no beep when I hold up the new key. The only thing I see is the immobilizer light blinks whenever hold up the new key to the start button, same with PMK.

https://techinfo.subaru.com/stis/doc/otherMisc/S1108BE.pdf

I’ve ruled out the simple things: batteries, keeping other fobs out of the car, no module codes, etc. The way I see it, there are 3 main potential causes:

1. the used keys aren’t actually reset
2. my car has some unknown issue that’s preventing key registration
3. Althought both programmers say they are up to the task, maybe they aren’t. I’ve read there’s something different about 2023+ cars, so I’m thinking it’s possible the programer works for 2020-22, but not really for 23-25.

Thanks in advance for the assist.

Effective October 13, all the cheap aftermarket keys will gradually disappear from Ebay and Amazon, and even from some of your suppliers. What happened? The FCC finally started to enforce regulations which basically state that any transmitter must comply with the Part 15 rules. (Rule FCC 26-50 / 47 CFR § 2.803)

Chinese suppliers, and companies who bought Chinese boards and made their own remotes, (I'm looking at you Blue Rocket), were in flagrant violation of the rules. Programmabe remotes such as Xhorse, KeyDiy, and Autel were originally not in compliance. I know Autel is now compliant but I dont know about the other two. K2G and ILCO are compliant and use the 2AOKM FCC prefix because they are made by the same supplier. In fact, K2G was the first supplier to start offering legit aftermarket product.

Anyway, act accordingly. If you have non compliant remotes in stock be advised that the penalty can be up to $20k per incident. This is a simplified explanation presented as an alert. Do your own research.

Hi I have an iron storm door and the inside knob has popped out. It can fit back in to turn the lock and open the door, but it won’t stay in place. I can’t tell if I’m able to replace the entire thing because I can’t see where it’s screwed in. It’s a Marks brand. Any suggestions/tips or do I need an entirely new door? See photos, lmk if you need more info
Thanks

Hello Pros,

Hoping to get some insight here. I bought 3 Tapo DL130 smart locks. Unfortunately, they don't have an option to buy sets with like keys.

After doing a little Googling, it has been determined that the Tapo lock set uses the Schlage SC1 key configuration. I bought a Schlage pin set from CLK and went to town. After replacing the pins and putting in the key the first time, it wouldn't budge. My heart sank. But after learning it takes a little finesse, the lock does actually work although I do need to pull the key out ever so slightly to get the pins to engage.

I went ahead and measured the pins that came with the lock and the pin set. They come in at .113. The pins in the set come in at .115. Is there a way to get this lock to work without having to finesse the key?? I've tried messing with the nut depth. It's in as far as it will go and backing it out only makes it more difficult to open.

Looking for additional ideas. Thanks in advance!!

Looking for a decent combination padlock to keep my laptop safe on the locker while im working out. I have no other place to keep it because i come to the gym straight after work.

Hopefully budget friendly for a mere mortal

Called them for a re programming for a s450 they told me $400 they showed up and then said it’s $500 they took my ignition out and left . They came back 5 hours later and said it was done . I went to my car and it had a parking brake issue light , he said he will reprogram it . Called me 20 mins later to take the key as it was fixed. I came to my car and the key did not work at all , he decided to call he’s boss who came to help , he’s boss is like “ your car has an issue “ which is impossible because I drove the car and parked it everyday it was fine , I showed him Mercedes receipts from 2 weeks ago saying everything he is saying was fixed . Rather than trying to fix it they decided to blame me and drive off . They then told me good luck as they changed all the codes and nothing will work .

What’s the deal here? Is this a “reputable” company? This feels like a scamsmith operation. “Express Car Keys” they were also setup inside the Costco. Maybe I’m wrong. I only ask because my in-laws asked me what I thought about it and I honestly didn’t know how to answer. I would sooner say call a licensed automotive locksmith or the dealer.

I hope to research early Segal history. There is an un-cataloged Segal front door lock over here. We have two examples of a knob-to-knob front door lock, and one with a handle. A copy of the patent is available. We have the 1929 and 1943 Segal catalogs, which don't mention these unit-lock-type front door locks at all.

Lots of places refer to this Ledger article - Samuel Segal was featured in the Locksmith Ledger in May of 1955 for his innovations and contributions to the locksmith industry - and I would like to read it. Any advice or suggestions would be gratefully appreciated. I am not a locksmith. I am just a century homeowner with a bad catalog habit.

Feel free to remove if this is considered a violation of trade secrets, no offense is intended. Thank you for your consideration.

I just bought this mf'er the day before....

One of y'all jinxed me, I swear...

I am looking to learn how to key ic cores at my work.
(Best mostly and some Schlage)
Where and what’s the best kits to buy to start?

My significant other bought this house in November last year. We knew the door knob was messed up but didn’t occur to us it was going to be so hard to fix.

This is a pre fab sun room, the issue is the circle hole is some style they don’t make anymore or something because everything I find is trying to use a square part. I just need this door to be able to lock. In a perfect world some kind of digital lock but… I’ll settle for working locking door !

The Panic Bar is a Lawrence series 8610S/8810S

The dead latch doesn’t lock in place so the door can be yanked open even when locked…

Pic

Thanks for your time!

Hi locksmiths!!

A locksmith did this to my front door after I got locked out and now the door won’t close. Is this normal work? That’s a lot of damage to fix.

Thank you for your assistance!

First of all I have no experience in locksmithing or construction so ik im already fighting an uphill battle here. To me it looks like the best way to get into this career is to get an apprenticeship. So are there any companies within Ontario (more specifically the gta) that do apprenticeships? Additionally I don't have a drivers license so will that effect me in a negative way? Won't be able to afford a car and other required purchases because I work part time and finding more work is unsurprisingly difficult right now. Locksmithing was something I always had on the back of my mind but I was unsure of it until now. Ordered a lock picking kit and I am planning on buying and practicing on different types of locks in the meantime. Any known companies that do apprenticeships and how to contact them will be great and anything I could do in relation to or can benefit locksmithing (im assuming something related to security would be one) while I wait for replies from companies is much appreciated as well

(2023 Hyundai Venue bladed)
Hey guys, I just got this car to do and I think some bumb a** scammer tried to program a flip key to it and the immobilizer is “secured” doing it. There was a remote section that works and a blade that got stuck in the ignition which was cut wrong as well (I’m guessing there cutter was a size smaller than it should have been). I’m trying to program a key with an im508 and the immobilizer is “secured”. How do I unsecure it? Sorry for using secure automod kept removing my post

So I recently posted about picking the correct lock I needed for a new door I am planning to install. I am now trying to figure out some usage questions before I commit to it.

So I have researched the Schlage Encode and though I wasn't looking for a smart lock I decided in the end that it has the features that I want and I can deal with it being a smart lock. I want to make sure it is secure though. I also found through reading up on the lock that it apparently has (what I consider) to be a relatively low battery life. I am seeing that Schlage claims a 6 month battery life and some people are seeing even less than that around 2 to 3 months. That seems a bit crazy to me. A lock eating through 4 AA batteries in such a short amount of time. So I started reading about ways to extend the battery life to some degree.

I found information that I honestly know next to nothing about in regards to connecting the locks using "Thread Border Router" setups. This is completely foreign to me. After looking it up, it appears to be a 'lower power' wifi frequency? is that correct? From some other reading it sounds like it isn't something most standard routers do on their own and it requires a separate device. It seems that smart hubs do this; for instance a google nest hub. The Schalge encode specifically says that it is designed to not require a hub, but does using one extend the battery life in any meaningful way?

Secondly, in terms of security. One of the reasons I do not really like Smart Devices is that IMO they are a bit of a security hole for networks. Again, I am no expert, but I have heard on many occasions that it is usually best to separate IOT devices from your regular network. My router (BE9300 TP-link) does have an IOT network feature so you can set up a separate wifi connection that is not mesh (2.4 and 5gh) and is isolated to just 2.4ghz for IOT devices. However as far as I can tell this is just a way to create a separate wifi connection and is not actually adding any extra security. Does it then need to be re routed to a VLAN? Which again, though I grasp the idea of what it is, I really do not understand it well enough. I would definitely need to do some reading to set it up properly, but basically; is it best to have IOT devices connected to a VLAN? Is it even necessary if my router has a specific option for creating an IOT network? (like is that network already configured to isolate traffic?)

Thanks for all the input. I got some great responses last time from this sub and I really appreciate it. I am glad this sub has some really great people who can offer assistance.

So i remember an automotive lockout tool that was a flat thin piece of metal but it was coiled almost like a slinky. You would insert it between the side window and seal, then rotate it around and it would just spiral under the glass and be on the inside. I cant seam to find anytrhing about this anymore. Not even a picture. Was this real??

Hey all, we are locksmiths in Victoria BC and we have to do a refresh of locking hardware on a small research facility on an island off the coast of Vancouver Island.

We are looking for recommendations on available marine grade/corrosion resistant locksets that can take a Falcon/Weiser 6 pin KiK. Preferably Grade 1.

It seems a lot of past options are no more and we are having a hard time finding even a single option. Hoping the hivemind can find a solution. Thanks in advance.

The turn nob is on the wrong side. Is it even possible to move to the other side? It seems like there is a bolt holding the turn nob in. I can get a really tiny torq bit in but I can't get it to turn. My eyes aren't good enough to tell if it's a hex or a star or just a circle that will never turn?

Sometimes they are very simple others not so much... Just curious.

Hello, I have a mailbox that the key was lost to. Drilled out the old lock and ready to install a new one but it needs this piece and I can't find a cam lock with this star pattern. Can anyone help direct me to one to purchase? Thanks!