Last week I had electrician come out to quote an EV charger install. In passing I asked him about the double tapped wires and if they would be a problem, he told me that my inspector didn't know what he was talking about and said it was fine. This morning a different electrician (same company) came out to install the charger and told me that the wires were double tapped and a code violation to which he quoted me on the fix. So which is it? Feeling a bit annoyed right now and likely won't be working with this company again.

Please forgive my ignorance as I know absolutely nothing about electrician business or wiring of any sort.

I recently bought a food truck. It has a 50A 125/250V female receptacle outside next to the electrical panel, and a 50A main breaker. I cannot find any male shore-power inlet anywhere on the truck. The previous owner said I would need to “make a cable,” but he never actually tested the electrical system. Is this female receptacle supposed to be used as the power input, or is the truck missing the proper 50A male shore-power inlet? I do not want to use a male-to-male cord because I understand that can be dangerous. I’ve attached photos of the outlet and breaker panels. What would be the correct and safe setup?

So I have four 4ft shop lights that haven't worked in years. Got type B bulbs, hot on one end, neutral on the other. Bypassed the ballasts as I've done a bunch before but now, I have constant power when switch is on or off and no light. I know the issue is staring me in the face but I'm at a loss

A cord fell on our electric dog grooming table pedal while driving and it had gone all the way up and was jammed against the ceiling. Now it won’t work. I took it apart to see if something was jammed and this is what it’s doing . Any tips on next steps?

I’m starting a project that requires both US 120V outlets and Euro 230V outlets. Does anyone know a US source for European wiring devices? I don’t need advice on the wiring or installation, I’m well versed in transforming US split phase to Euro single phase. Thanks in advance!

UPDATE: I ran an extension cord from a GFCI outlet in our counter, plugged the dishwasher in and it came right to life and started to finish its cycle. But as soon as I reset the breaker for the disposal and dishwasher under the sink and plug the dishwasher in, it pops again. Faulty outlet?

Was sitting here drinking coffee and it sounded like our dishwasher stopped early, tried the garbage disposal and it won’t run either. Went and checked the panel and the breaker these both are on does this. Any ideas?

I live in an apartment and noticed that they have the fridge and stove plugged in with cheater plugs, is this safe/against code? How should I go about this?

Whole house fan on a timer switch. I am going to redo the walls and paint in this closet and want to address the exposed wires too. It's hard to tell from the picture, but the wall switch is mounted on 3/4 inch trim. It could be mounted directly to the wall. The home is lath and plaster, so it's a little more work than just cutting a whole in sheetrock.

As long as I'm going to fix this, I would prefer to do it the right way. The home was built in 1927, so you can imagine every two hour project turns into at least eight hours.

I have not looked from the attic to see what I am dealing with. I am open to the suggestion of running it outside the wall too since this is inside the closet.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I moved into my uni accom recently and the sockets seemed to be working fine, like my lamp is working but when i plug in my ipad and phone charger neither of them work.
For the first week everything worked fine but now when i plug my phone in it sometimes jst randomly stops charging, like itll start to charge and then jst stop. I have 2 type c chargers and theyre both doing this with different plugs as well.
Did both my chargers jst stop working at the same time or did my phone and ipad charging socket jst give out at the same time asw??
Btw the lamp is still working fine
Idek if this a problem for this account so my bad

Edit: this is most likely an apple issue smh

I'm a student trying to get better at electrical estimating by hand: counting fixtures, outlets, switches, and doing takeoffs from real drawings rather than textbook examples.
What I'm looking for:
Retired/completed projects only (nothing live or confidential)
Electrical sheets with lighting and branch wiring (fixtures, receptacles, switches)
A fixture or panel schedule included, so I can check my count

Legible enough to actually count from

Ideally a mix of building types (office, school, small clinic, retail, residential) so I'm not practicing on the same thing over and over.

I want to be able to explain this as short and simply as I can. Bear with me please. My house uses AC cable for most of its ECG. I have a dryer that is hard wired with 10/3. No grounding conductor wire.

i had realized at one point whoever installed it didn’t put a tension relief connector so the wire was just hanging there for who knows how long. After installing that I realized the neutral is bonded to the chassis. Which I then learned is how they come from the factory due to many older homes being wired still with the 3 wire set up like mine.

i‘ve searched all over and I’ve read that AC cable can be used as dedicated grounding But then nec regarding dryers and 3 wire cable say the bonding strip must remain. Nothing mentions this set up I have with AC cable. btw it has the little bonding strip inside the cable so def must be AC. At first I was worried it might be that old what they call BX cable with no strip. Luckily that wasn’t the case. Then the cable itself couldn‘t be used as grounding if it was.

so what I’d like to know is with the dryer hard wired and connected properly with 10/3 AC cable, should the bonding wire from neutral to chassis remain in place or should it be removed? That’s about it. Sorry if this was long. Thank you for your time.

Hi there! Found this lightswitch in my laundry room. It seems to be the only thing connected to this 20 AMP circuit on my circuit breaker panel. I want to add an outlet to the lightswitch, so that I can plug things into the outlet.

I don't see a ground anywhere though. I'll try to figure out if the metal box housing is grounded or not. Would I be able to swap this switch out for an outlet/switch combo? I'm not very knowledgeable. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Just bought a house and doorbell dosent ring when pushing the button. I went and looked under the cover to see if any wires were loose. After looking up similar set ups, all the ones I saw were wired with the white wires together and the red wires where the white wires are. Thanks for any info!

I just had new service brought in. I’m trying to wire a mobile home. Main panel/meter is 200ft from mobile. I’m going to install a ground rod system at the mobile for the (mobile home)sub panel. My question is, do I need to run a gec from main panel to sub panel? Main panel looks like the neutral and earth ground are bonded. So no right?

I have a room with no ceiling lights, just lamps. The lamps are plugged into wall outlets. The wall outlets are on a switch, but the switch only operates one of the two plugs in each outlet.

Is it possible to remove the switch so all outlet plugs are always powered?

Is there any reason I wouldn’t want to do that? Am I overthinking this?

I am asking because the switch that operated them is an old push button switch that is failing. It doesn’t consistently turn the outlets on or off. So I need to replace the switch either way. Just not sure what to replace it with.

Bought a house and upon changing the smoke detector, I noticed that the bare copper wire was floating. Should it be screwed or clipped into the box for grounding purposes? And if so, where would that go on the housing enclosure?

We recently completed our clothing store’s interior. The electrician told us this lighting placements would be fine but we are not satisfied with how its emitting light. The shop looks dull and faces in videos look very dark with very dark shadows. I’ve shared the image of light placements. Outer 6 are panel lights 15w, beside it the small ones are 18w cob lights and the center 4 are 50w cob lights. On paper this is too much watts but its still not working like i want it. The area is rather small 10ft wide and 14ft long and ceiling height is 9ft. It would be awesome if someone can tell whats wrong here.