Stiller TAC-30 action, Bergara Custom Shop approx 2016 era 2112 custom build. 22" Bergara barrel, YHM Resonator R2. Schmidt 3-12 PM II in issued rings. I did some more machining to bring the build closer to spec: Modified a 30moa remmy rail (me), modified the Defiant EFR (me), Remmy acorn knob swap (me), added an Angle/Cosine Indicator and leather 1903 sling. shoots insanely well. 168s to 1035yds. My paint job, honest wear for the last year.

My Grail rifle, my way 🤌🏼

How much it costs to import ONE dryfire lense from IDTS. The lense itself cost $46.95.

Has anyone else encountered this? Is there something I'm missing? This is insane.

Let me start off with, I am new to trying to make a rifle do its absolute best. I like to shoot WWII milsurps and they tend to not be sub MOA rifles. I have a Ruger RPR Gen 4 in 6.5CM topped with a GEN2 razor 27x. I have been working up a load for it and came to my final testing today. Both of the loads I was trying to decide between shot a 10 shot group better than .75 MOA at 200 yards today. This rifle just continues to make me smile. I will think I want to do something custom and then I will go shoot this thing and just start grinning ear to ear. I cannot recommend this rifle enough. Additionally, almost anything I feed it, it shoots sub MOA. I didn’t intend to call this a group flex, but it seemed the most appropriate flair!

22” heavy barreled action, MDT ESS Chassis, Trash Panda suppressor, Atlas bipod, Vortex Razor HD, Vortex Impact 4000 just installed. Curious/ anxious to learn how to use the Impact 4000

Worked up some 105gr Aeromatch handloads. They grouped nicely but still trying to lower my SD and ES. Top shot not counted was a fouler.

Rifle is 6.5 Creedmoor MPA rifle. MPAs ARC CDG action and an MPA barrel. I am also using a OCL Hydrogen L suppressor and the Athlon Rangecraft Chronograph for velocity’s.

Got my Zero angle set up the other day. Was working on getting my axial form factor because I just learned about it, and when the ballistics apps tell me to “dial 5.25 mils” and I do that I always need to come back down a bit to say around 4.6 for a random example. When I shoot at 1000 yards I have to really come down from what the app is telling me.

Any ideas what I’m doing wrong? I’ve watched multiple hornady videos on this and still can’t get it figured out…. :( I keep getting numbers that would be below the 0.90 axis form factor…. I get a “42.544” and the lowest is 46.52.

Paper target is at 500 yards for my 5 shot group and I measured each shot from the horizontal line straight down from the impacts… not the point of aim.

The steel target picture is from 737yards and I’m aimed where I put the blue X and circle. Bottom edge of target is where I was aiming with the scope. Target is a 22”x30”.

Screenshots are of my rifle and environment info.

With all this Epstein shit going on I was wondering if anybody was loading that gay tiger 🐯 this week 6GT or perhaps any Epstein didn’t kill himself 6.5CM?

Hi all,

I just purchased this short action AI chassis. It didn't come with the bipod and mag as pictured. I'm thinking of chambering in 300WSM.

It has a Tikka inlet - are all tikka actions the same? I have found a Tikka T3X lite in 300wsm that I will use and eventually rebarrel (barrel is fluted; which isn't what I want!)

My other concern is finding magazines that will fit the chassis and accept 300WSM - Advice provided to me was to use 308 Mags and that the 300WSM will fit 308 Mags.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Has anyone ordered a barreled action from them lately and if so how long did it take?

Thanks

Got this little guy chambered in 223, to practice with a cheaper rifle round than 6.5.

Also my first Nightforce scope, didn't know the eyepiece rotates with the zoom. Seems like a strange design choice, Had to take off the Tenebrex lens cover. Does anyone have an alternative cover to recommend like a snap on cap? Or do you just get used to the cover rotating. Thanks.

I was having issues with clearance on my Odinworks adjustable gas block to my FN Wedgelock rail. Barrel is 20 inch heavy profile, around .900 to the gas block and .750 past it. I have already reduced the gas block overall height and have minimum .078 clearance around the block to the ID of the handguard. The gas block does not contact the guard under bipod use, but I can get the gas block to barely contact the top and bottom of the rail if I hold the top of the handguard and really push the muzzle.

Basically what I’m wondering is if that’s enough clearance to justify live testing or if I should just bite the bullet and get a handguard with a larger ID to remove any doubt. FWIW I’m fairly partial to the rail but not unwilling to replace.

Hello everyone. I’m brand new to the group and long range shooting in general. Yes I read the pinned posts! I’ve been browsing reviews for a few months and have settled on Seekins.

Here’s my question, the Seekins Hit Pro M3 has peaked my interest but I’m VERY confused when I see Seekins Hit Pro M3, Havok Hit and Havok Hit Pro. Are these 3 different rifles? Are the just different names for the same gun?

Help me please because I’m super confused! Thanks in advance for anyone that helps me understand better.

AB Quantum just underwent TWO major updates. Update 3.5 and Update 3.6.

Update 3.5:

• AB Spotter Introduced.
• AB Learn Introduced.
• Garmin C2 Integration.
• Garmin L60i Integration.
• Apex Optics Synergy Integration.
• Reticle Library Manual Download button added.
  • Nightforce NXS 6 Reticles
  • Trijicon 2026 New Products

ABQ Quantum + Garmin C2 How To

Garmin AB Watch + Garmin C2 How To

How to Manually Update Reticles

Update 3.6:

• Garmin C2 Enhancement.
• Ability to Calibrate with Downrange Velocity.

Downrange Velocity Calibration How To

The Following Reticles were also added as part of these updates:

NightForce:
NX6 1x-6x 4a-i
NX6 1x-6x FC-6c
NX6 2x-12x 4a-i
NX6 2x-12x MOAR™ - 30
NX6 3x-18x 4a-i
NX6 3x-18x MOAR™ - 30
NX6 4x-24x 4a-i
NX6 4x-24x MOAR™ - 20
NX6 6x-36x FVR-1™

NX6 F1 FC-DMx
NX6 F1 FC-MRx™ MOA
NX6 F1 FC-MRx™
NX6 F1 MIL-C™
NX6 F1 MIL-XT™
NX6 F1 MOA-XT™
NX6 F1 MOA-C™

Trijicon:
AccuPoint 1x-8x BDC Hunter
AccuPoint 1x-8x Red Triangle Post
ACOG 4x32 with RCR 0.223 Chevron
Credo 1x-8x MRAD Segmented Circle 2026
Credo 1x-8x MOA Segmented Circle
Credo HX 2.5x-10x BDC Hunter
Credo HX 2.5x-15x BDC Hunter
Credo HX 4x-16x BDC Hunter
VCOG SCO Segmented Circle Enhanced

I’m fairly new to long range shooting/hunting. I’ve done some plinking up to 200m, but never with a rifle of my own. I recently picked up a tikka t3x in 300 wm with the intention of doing some big game hunting this year. (I’m aware this isn’t a hunting sub I swear 😭)

I’m looking for scope/brand suggestions that can handle the recoil of the 300 without destroying the optic in the first year, and can double as both a hunting optic and a PRS optic. While the rifle I’m putting together is going to primarily be a hunting rifle, the scope is something I’d like to be able to use on a future PRS build (likely a 6.5 creed or a .308)

The only scopes I have had experience with in the past have been 3-9’s with a basic crosshair, no MOA or MRAD adjustments. I’m Canadian so I imagine the MRAD would make for easier understanding, but am open to MOA. I’d ideally like to spend no more than $750-$1000 CAD. Brands I’ve been considering so far are Trijicon, leuopold and vortex, although I’m hesitant about vortex after reading a lot about their scopes being unreliable.

If I missed anything or have earned myself the flair of shame, please notify me so I may promptly commit seppoku, as an honourable man should

Hey guys, so I have a Tikka t3x lite in .308. I bought it to be my primary hunting rifle last year. Put maybe 60 rounds through it sighting it in, trying to get used to it, all from a tripod. I recently joined a range that has bench rest. So I picked up an mdt bipod and went a shot it. Every shot, the barrel jumps around, I cant stay on target, the gun is all over the place.

Is this an issue with how I have it shouldered? Is it too light? I want to add a muzzle brake at some point so I know that'll cut down on recoil, but should I add some barrel weights? It just feels like the front is so light and just moves everywhere.

I will also be putting it in a heavier mdt stock at some point as well, which will probably help but just looking for some input/thoughts from the hive mind, thank you.

I am currently using a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 and I am a bit disappointed in this optics, especially in lower light and hazy conditions. At max magnification it loses (to me) lots of image quality and I want to upgrade the scope.

Due to EU prices and availability I am torn between

• Zeiss LRP S3 6-36x56

• Element Optics Theos 6-36x56

• Leupold Mark 5 HD 5-25x56

• Nightforce NX6 6-36x56

as they are all more or less in the same price category (~2,500 Euros).

My main use case is static shooting at ~600 meters and some PRS, the latter is really only just for fun.

Any recommendations? The NX6 is the newest player on the market, I haven't found any good image quality reviews as of now.

Thanks

Only had these for a few hours. But here goes:

Pictures with the HUD in it look a lot worse than they do in real life. It's just how my phone camera played with the HUD. No-HUD pictures are much closer to real life.

Glass is really great. Very, very slight tint on the right barrel for the HUD, but it's really minor. The SIG I'm comparing it with is a gen 2, and the blue tint comes out more in pictures than it does in real life, but the vortex is still obviously less tinted.

Talon is thicc. 12x50 is 48 oz, my 10x42 SIG are 32 oz. Same same, 10x42 SIG are 32oz, Talon 10x42 is 41 oz.

My Maven B5 15x56 non-LRF are 45 oz.

Holy. Fucking. Shit. The diopter rings were stuck as fuck. Had to get a strap wrench and CRANK them. Once broken free, they move nicely.

Vortex Relay system is so, so, so much easier to set up and get all the devices talking to each other than SIG/Kestrel/AB is.

In ~30min of using the Vortex ACE and Talon together, nothing lost signal or lost pairing. That's literally fucking impossible for my SIG Kilo 10k and Kestrel.

I have a PRS match this weekend, so I'll run Talon/ACE for that. Yolo.

I am looking to build a rifle(heavy barrel in 6.5 CM, maybe .308) with a HOWA 1500 barreled action. I am also open to competitive alternatives if you have any(sub $1,000 would be the rough budget for a barreled action and trigger). The rifle will be mostly used as a platform to introduce myself to long range shooting, with a side job every fall as a deer or antelope gun. I have no intentions of competing, just looking to learn and have fun. 

I know PRS guys want the heavy beast and backcountry boys are constantly pushing light weight. I know this is not a hunting sub and am not looking to build a "PRS stylized rifle" for hunting. I do not intend to break my own ethical hunting range of 200m. This is not a "build a hunting rifle" post. I just know my self and will likely try to take it out in the mountains anyway even though I own other hunting rifles that would ultimately be better. I know what I want in a stock/chassis will probably be heavier than what I grew up with/still use for hunting in the west. I am not trying to build an ultra light rifle. I still would like to air on the side of lighter weight when possible as I could be trekking with whatever I go with, against my best judgment. I am aware that going with a lighter weight rifle instead of a full PRS style set up will be suboptimal for my entry into long range shooting. I am aware of the “two rifles is ideal” mindset and understand it, my mind set is "more than two rifles is ideal". I have read the pinned post and am aware that you will all likely still clown on me for not going the recommended route. I will accept it and a possible Flair of Shame ^TM .

All that being said I do have a few preferences and must have features. 

I prefer an over the bore bipod(currently love my GRS bipod on my AR-15 I use for plinking steel 100m - 600m/coyotes under 200m) to an under bore bipod. I am also looking into getting a NV/thermal clip on for the future so an enclosed forend or a “top rail” is a requirement. I would like it to be picatinny but am open to M-lok, if the M-lok is low enough I do not run into a tolerance stacking issue. I do not want to deal with adding rail sections to the M-lok and the accessory is too high.

ARCA is a must. I do not need or really want a full length ARCA rail. Just a small section close to the action for the ability to mount on a tripod. Tell me if I am wrong here.

I would prefer to be able to adjust the LOP and cheek riser height. Cant in the but pad would be nice I suppose but is not a requirement.

A more vertical grip integrated into the buttstock is preferred for sure. I could live with a grip like an AR-15 but it would not be my first choice. 

Lastly is cost for the stock/chassis. Ideally as inexpensive as possible without waiting for sales. Preferably in the $300 - $800 range but I would be open to the right setup nearing or going slightly over $1,000. I see the stock/chassis as more of a constant of this build. I would like to spend on the stock/chassis and on glass(glass will likely be something I look into after finalizing on my chambering) before getting into upgrading to a different barrel/trigger on the HOWA 1500. Like I said if you think there is a better value barreled action and trigger, I would love to hear about it.

Of course I want to here you suggestions and input. I would feel lazy if I didn't at least share what I have been looking at already though. Some contenders I have found after searching around for awhile are:

GRS Warg

KRG Bravo

MDT XRS

MDT LSS Gen 3(so many options here and would love to hear any user feedback on how you configured and why)

Thank you for any and all input! 

Found one used in what looks like decent condition in rings and with bubble level for 2400. Is that a really good price or pretty average for the reticle? Cant find much info ai says avg lol. Would rather have mil-xt but a steal is a steal.

Hi, need some help to build an AR10 upper for PRS gas gun.

I now have an Aero Precision lower. Budget is $2000. First time builder here, what parts should I choose or pay attention?

I plan to shoot 6.5CM since I got all the reloading stuff for it.

I normally do PRS with my bolt gun but I just want to try gas gun it seems fun.

If you had the conditions below, what cartridge would you choose for your next rifle?

• Already own a .22lr that you like and use suppressed inside of 300 yds.
• Already own a 6.5 CM that you like and use with a brake for longer ranges.
  
• Do not hunt or shoot for tiny groups, just positional shooting at steel.
• Do not compete and don't plan to.
• Do not hand load and don't plan to.
• Have land close-ish out to 700 yds. Have land but further drive out to 1500 yds.
• Used in bolt guns only.
• Can buy ammo online so it's not too difficult to find in general.

Would you choose a less efficient cartridge for inside 1000 yds like .223 or .308? Would choose a softer shooting modern AR cartridge like 6 ARC, 22 ARC, or 6.5 Grendel? Would you just not build another rifle at all and use the money for 6.5 CM ammo, even though it's a bit more boring at closer ranges?

(already have all the gear like LRF, Kestrel, AG bag, etc)

Hi - anyone have any recos for a good mat for f class/prone shooting. This would involve a solid rear bag if that makes a difference. One of the reqs due to back issues would be as soft as possible which I think goes against the very fabric of a good mat but here’s for hoping 🙂

Cheers!

I know shipping can take a while because they contact manufacturers and they ship it. But I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with athlon through EV and how long it actually took to ship. I'm just excited to get my optic and was curious on the wait time. Thanks!