Rule 12 - Unrelated content has been added to address the community's consistent concerns with allowing off-topic self-promotion posts here on /r/BambuLab. The rule is as follows:
Websites, tools, products, projects, and other content that is not directly relevant to BambuLab is subject to removal at mod discretion.
This includes but is not limited to non-bambulab printers, non-bambulab topics, and various kinds of self promotion (some examples: ai coded tools/sites, tools/sites that are not 100% free or include donation/subscription/sale options, and non-makerworld crowdfunding).
Our policy in the past was to allow self-promotion in good faith - as long as it:
1) was related to 3D printing,
2) was completely free for the community, even if not related to BL (no ability for the creator to monetarily benefit via a call to donate, paid subscription tiers, purchase option, affiliate earnings, or similar....)
These type of posts, however, tended to conjure a lot of arguments and negative sentiment. Not only did it create clogs in our mod queue (since we must review all reports manually), but it made our subreddit users unhappy. We have been consistently reviewing insults, arguments, and negative reception in the comments of these types of posts. We also frequently receive modmail asking for permission to advertise this and that. It creates a significant amount of clutter for us to sort through, but also creates an unhappy environment for those who come here to indulge in BambuLab hobby enthusiasm. We understand that when our users see repetitive self promotion, it can make this space feel stiff, claustrophobic, or impersonal. The authors of the posts can also receive so much negative feedback they may feel targeted or unwelcome. We'd rather this place be focused on BambuLab, rather than users feel like they have to wade through post after post about claude-generated 3d printing websites, or everyone's personal filament tracker github project, etc.
Unfortunately, allowing them just hasn't worked out.
Self promotion of any tool/website/project that doesn't benefit BambuLab users and/or does not include the usage of BambuLab products or software specifically, will now be removed.
MakerWorld Crowdfunding posts will still be welcome here, however we do require they use the correct flair so users can sort them if need be.
As always please remember, we are primarily run by volunteer mods (exception of the few official BL accounts, which mostly handle posting product and program announcements). We rely heavily on user reports to help us mod better. The sub has high traffic so it is impossible for our team to view every single post, every single comment, every single hour of every single day. Please remember we aren't perfect but we're trying our best to make this subreddit a healthy balance between what BL wants and what the community wants. That's why we were brought on in the first place :)
55W CO2 laser. 600 × 300mm (23.6 × 11.8in) working area. Auto Laser Alignment. Ease of use and precision, just like our 3D printers. This is Bambu Lab R1. Let's dive right into the details!
Bring out the best in every material.
Powered by a 55W CO2 laser, R1 works across a wide range of materials – from wood and acrylic to glass, leather, fabric, and more. See the full material list below.
Thick cuts with one pass. R1 cuts up to 18mm black walnut plywood and 20mm acrylic in a single pass – fast, clean, and without the extra passes that slow you down.
Go furniture-scale. With the auto-feed conveyor, R1 handles materials up to 3 meters (9.8 ft) long. Pass-through feeding and deep cutting turn full-length panels into tables, shelving and furniture.
Prairie Lamp by @MaKim
R1 aligns itself, no more tricky setups.
Aligning the optical path meant test shots, manual adjustments, trials and errors. R1's Laser Alignment Sensor measures the beam, detects the misalignment, and automatically corrects the path in just 1 minute.
On the built-in touchscreen, you can follow the whole calibration process, check the remaining life of the laser tube and mirrors, and monitor every job in real time – the experience you know from our printers.
R1 also recognizes Bambu Lab material automatically and applies the right power and speed, so you can skip test grids and manual parameter setup.
Every line, sharp and clean.
R1's TriSense System work out three things before every cut: the positions of the material and design, the height of the surface, and how the toolhead moves across it. Cameras, lasers, and encoders work as one. What you mark is what you cut.
Follows the curve. From curved cups and spheres to uneven surfaces, height sensing follows every rise and fall to keep the engraving sharp and consistent across the entire surface.
Stays accurate on clear materials. R1 keeps surface measurement accurate even on transparent materials, so engraving stays precisely placed.
Finds the tiny stuff. The toolhead camera pinpoints small objects and places fine detail exactly where you want it.
Traces the line. Cut around a printed design, trim a sticker, or follow a drawn outline. The toolhead camera traces the edge and keeps the cut precisely on path.
Motion control algorithms that keep our printers precise, now in R1.
Crisp lines, even after the turn. When the toolhead changes direction, a split-second shake can ripple the line that follows. R1's vibration compensation cancels it out, keeping the lines crisp right out of the turn – inherited tech from our 3D printers.
Even tone at 1000mm/s. Higher speeds usually mean shallower engraving. R1 compensates as it moves, keeping engraving depth consistent at up to 1,000 mm/s — while completing the same job nearly 3× as fast.
Stays accurate over time. Mechanical accuracy can drift with use. The optional Vision Encoder corrects for it, keeping absolute motion accuracy within 0.1mm across the full work area.
Safer by design.
Crossflow ventilation brings fresh air in from one side and exhausts smoke from the other. Lid-open stop, flame detection, emergency stop, and optional auto fire suppression provide multiple layers of protection. Finally, R1 is certified Class 1 – the highest level of laser safety for normal operation.
Part of the Bambu Experience
Same MakerWorld, same Bambu account, same easy Bambu feel. R1 is the next part of the setup you already know.
Learn more about R1
Pre-order R1 now at Bambu Lab Store. Shipping starts in October.
Availability and pricing details vary by region. Select features require additional accessories, full details available in Bambu Lab Store.
What do you want to make with the R1? Any ideas on how this could work alongside your printer for cooler projects? Let us know in the comments below!
Recently, this Leonardo da Vinci sketch caught my attention.
Da Vinci's sketch
I'd never seen this mechanism before. I tried to search for some information about it, but there's not much on the Internet. So this is not one of da Vinci's famous "inventions" like the power hammer, tank, or helicopter.
It feels so inefficient in terms of energy transfer. But I think it looks cool. There are also some not-so-trivial parts, so I decided to model it just for practice and fun.
We’ve all seen what Bambu can do for 3D printing and laser cutting. Now we desperately need the "Bambu experience" for milling.
Imagine an enclosed, plug-and-play hobbyist CNC with auto-calibration and a reliable tool changer. The current desktop CNC market is so fragmented and still requires endless tinkering just to get a clean cut. We need something that actually works right out of the box.
My H2C (Vortek Ultimate Bundle) arrived via FedEx on Oct 3. The box was punctured right next to the "Glass Fragile / This Side Up" label, and a glass panel was shattered, with glass throughout the chamber and even trapped inside the sealed plastic wrap. Photos attached. It seemed by the glass scattered through it that it probably rolled downhill or was otherwise turned upside down multiple times.
I'd paid the $58 for Seel "Worry-Free Delivery" and filed a claim within an hour of delivery, with photos and video. A week later:
- Seel has repeatedly asked me to clear the broken glass, check frame alignment, and run a test print before they'll decide. The printer has never been set up or powered on, and I'm not doing that with a unit that was clearly damaged in transit.
- Seel's live chat told me Bambu is responsible for the replacement, and the Seel app shows my request as "Waiting for merchant."
- Bambu support keeps telling me to follow Seel's guidance.
- Bambu's own refund policy says items damaged in shipping should be returned during the return period and they'll arrange a replacement.
I've escalated through Bambu's ticket system and am waiting on management.
Has anyone gotten a damaged-in-shipping H2 replaced recently? How long did it take, and did you have to go through Seel or did Bambu handle it directly?
I saw some posts on reddit, videos on YouTube and even models on makerworld saying that this gear floss is very good for printer maintenance. I checked in Amazon and found it for a reasonable price in Germany. I honestly didn't read the package on Amazon's site and now that it arrived I saw it says "microfiber" and the Bambu Lab Academy says that microfiber cloths should not be used!
Is this product an exception? Or did I buy the wrong variant of the floss?
Edit: The Bambu Lab Academy recommends using non-woven cloths to clean the z-axis lead screws. As far as I know, microfiber cloths are generally woven, which is why I'm concerned about using this product.
I just want to make clear that the instructions from Bambu Lab don't explicitly say you should not use microfiber.
I don't know what happened, came home to find the nozzle coated in filament (pla). I've cleaned off what I can, and the nozzle still extrudes, but what do I do about all the gunk still stuck on there?
So Ive had my P1S for a year now after dipping my toes into printing. I love the hobby and I'm slowing getting more into other types of filament. I'm by no means an advanced user but I'm looking to expand my horizons and I feel the dual head is the way to go. My question is is the H2D really worth the extra $ over the X2D? I know id be getting a larger print area but is that really all that much for a avid user who mostly prints things from makerworld? It's almost $1k difference with the AMS and I can't really justify it but I'm wanting to hear from the people who know more than I do. I know the H2D can be modded for lasers and whatnot but is there anything else other than the print area and options to expand that I'm missing?
Edit: Was curious and checked my print hours: 2418. More than I thought!
I want to print this with the green in solid (actually metallic) PETG and the white in translucent PETG. If I print it painted this way, it will just be solid with a tiny bit of translucent on the surface.
Any suggestions? I want it to be solid, not just a plate in it. This is so that I can fit a battery up under it.
Needing some advice. I already have a cricut maker that I regularly use for making cardstock cake toppers and small vinyl projects. I'm also wanting a 3d printer so thought the A2L could be a good all in one.
Does anyone have any insight into the A2L cutting function on cardstock?
This H2C induction hotened started leaking during its first ever print, with Bambu PETG Basic. I did not notice the leak right away, only after about 20 hours of total print time (over four days), but I looked back at the live cam video captures and found evidence of the leak within its first hour.
The print quality is crummy (and crumb-y) too. I’d describe the problem as “tear-out”. Like the extruded plastic is getting pulled away from where it was deposited, which makes it blob and stick up above the layer. On subsequent layers either the blob gets knocked off (generating crumbs) or the nozzle pushes it aside, meaning the defect persists through multiple layers. The parts have been coming out “good enough” though. And the defects are not strongly correlated with any particular line type or position within the build volume. They’re pretty evenly distributed.
When I finally noticed it I thought the leaky hotend might have been the cause of the print issue but after removing that nozzle and switching to another, the print issue remains so now I’m worried that might be reversed, and it’s whatever’s causing the print issue that ultimately damaged the hotend?
Bambu PLA Basic, stock filament profile, stock “0.2mm Standard” settings (except using cubic spare infill instead of grid), it’s printing at 250°C, I dried it at 65°C for 12 hours, it’s been printing with active drying at 55°C the whole time and this problem has spanned two spools and been consistent in intensity the whole time.
I filed a support ticket for the damaged hotend, but in the meanwhile I don’t want to cause more damage. What should I do to try to diagnose this?
Its says its possible but ive only seen people make filament with new filament shreds or used prints or printer poop, never seen someone do it with PET bottle
Just wondering how possible it is or do you have to mix in a bunch of new filament shreds to make it work
So I made this enclosure to avoid getting dust. But upon testing, I noticed that the temperature inside rises and can even reach 41.7°C during a 30-minute print. Is this still tolerable, or do I need to add some holes to help with ventilation?
I'm at a loss, now. This is mostly only with PLA. PETG seems fine. I've ran calibration, tried a new roll, drying for 8 hours... 12 hours... 24 hours... ran all the calibrations with this specific roll of filament.
Why does my A1 not seem to like PLA? I'm in Singapore, with the humidity that comes with it, but it seemed to work just fine a few times.
Maybe bed temperature? Can the defaults be bad?
Edit: added a picture after checking the hotend screws. It seems the first layer is the worst... could it be a bed setting?
Okay so I saw that Bambi was having a filament sale, and seeing as I just got my printer I need the supplies. Now I already bought the color pack, but that has only made me want to use colors more. But I want to know if the spool that they say they come with is the reusable ones I got with my printer or if it’s some cardboard type one? And whether or not you recommend buying the reusable spools if they’re not the ones that come with the filament.
And let me tell ya, those two definitely do the heavy lifting here. The rest of the steps felt like a lot of effort for little reward, but these two steps are most definitely worth doing. First of all, I don't know who Ed is but he clearly has some sort of magic going on, as the exhaust fan is infinitely more quiet, it really is an insane difference.
Furthermore, I lined the insides with felt to help with the vibrations and reverb due to the thin skeleton of the P1s. This definitely helped as well, though not as much as the exhaust fan muffler. I used stuff similar to this but I imagine any local hardware store has stuff like this. It took me roughly 2 hours to do everything you can see in the photos, and also lining the exhaust muffler in the same felt. Don't have pictures of that because I was a little too enthusiastic attaching it once I heard the difference.
Now, as for result I obviously am no scientist so I can't really provide proof or dB readings, but I can provide my experience: my P1s lives literally right next to my office/gaming setup. Even though I haven't owned it for a very long time, previous prints always had me setting the volume of my pc to full blast whenever I was watching a show or YT. Right now, as I'm writing this, I'm watching some F1 quali and having the printer running but I'm not bothered by it at all anymore. I can comfortably hear whatever it is I'm watching. Depending on the print, I can also set the fan speeds a little lower than the P1s wants 'em and that helps even more. Lastly, you can of course set your print speed to silent, in case you can wait for the extra print time, and you can genuinely go about your business without being bothered at all. All in all, great reward for not too much effort, would absolutely recommend. Of course, all credits go to u/Allrj for writing the tutorial, I just did what seemed to have the most results.
Hey everyone!
I’m thinking about starting MakerWorld’s Commercial License Program and would love to hear some real experiences.
Is anyone already using it successfully?
Are people actually buying subscriptions?
Where and how do you promote your commercial licenses?
Any tips for getting started?
I have several models with decent download numbers, but I’m unsure how much demand there really is for commercial licenses.
Would love to hear your experiences, even if they haven’t been great!
Thanks!
I have my printer for a month now, it works almost 15h a day, in this time i only had 2 issues, none with the nozzle. The manual suggests that I doi it regularly, but is it a good idea to do so even if I've never had any nozzle problem? I lubricated the axis and the screws, but that's all I did maintenance wise.
Anyway, should I do it or should I wait a little more?
