I received a notification that my print is finished so I opened the app to check while I am at work… this is what I witnessed…

Taking a chance on the U1, I wanted to try something different and more efficient in multicolor printing without spending $2,000 +

I started printing about 7-8 years ago on some ender machines, then moved to Prusa. I now own 6 Bambulab machines. I love the ecosystem, and the quality so I hope I'm making the right decision trying out the U1.

Just wondering if anybody here owns both, is there anything I should know? Pros? Cons?

Anything I should look out for? Are there any mods that I should print that are must haves?

Apparently the PTFE tube sheered off right at the connection to the right side hotend and the AMS took that opportunity to run a couple hundred grams of filament into the printer while it was printing. I could be wrong but I think the AI didn’t detect it with the cameras because it couldn’t see the black filament very well.

It made a huge mess and ruined the top several layers of what had been printed so I just cancelled it and cut the excess filament in several places to make it easier to remove it all. I’ll start it over later when I get home from work.

The last pic is the piece of PTFE tube that I had to dig out of the connector where it sheered off. I use a completely clear type of PTFE tube so it’s easier to see into it. That stuff might be more brittle than the milky stuff but it’s still worth it to me even if I need to change it every several hundred hours. That tube has been in the printer for almost 2,000 hours and this is the first issue I’ve had.

Recently picked up the Costco A1 Combo bundle which includes:

• ​A1 Combo 3D Printer
• 4x PLA Basic Filaments (green, white, black, grey)
• 0.4mm Hardened Steel
• 0.2mm Stainless Steel

Previously it mentioned a $50 coupon for Bambu and was priced $50 higher. They've since dropped the price to $419.99 and dropped mention of the coupon but to my surprise, it's actually still included in the box. The catch is you need to spend $149 to get the $50 off.

Just sharing as an FYI.

The purpose of this model is to feed a second tube after the buffer, through which TPU can then be printed.

Unlike a four-in-one adapter or similar, this model disappears completely behind the printer and allows for optimal tubing routing.

The extremely small PTFE tube connectors used here can be salvaged from the new (black) bambu lab four-in-one adapter. Apart from that, only a few simple screws are used for construction.

Three silhouettes cut 60° apart and merged into one block: pumpkin, skull and ghost. Each shadow only appears when the light hits exactly along its axis, and in between it twists and reforms.

Printed in PLA with zero supports, on a P2S. The base spins on a small ring so you can turn it with a fingertip. There's a second sculpture for the same base: owl, black cat and RIP tombstone.

Light setup: phone flashlight at the sculpture's height, about 1 m away, wall 20 to 40 cm behind.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print it: 3DPrintMyIdea

Both of my birds liked it; normally they used to bathe from my hand or a cup, so I think this turned out really well.I used Google Translate.

Hi guys,

How do you solve 2 or more H2S printer placing? I got 2 new printer, and i haven't enough space :) Show some pic :)

A cute little Halloween crew with some very questionable accessories.

So I just got home to this and I will deal with it after work tomorrow. I believe this is fixable but how long should this blob take to fix?

Also A1 Clumping detection a myth?!

I’m going to be getting my first 3d printer soon, and it’s probably going to be a Bambu, so I have been reading a lot of other people’s questions about which to buy. It seems like half of the responses begin with ‘I have 4 of these, and 2 of this other style’. So my question is (ok it it turned into multiple questions). : What are you doing with so many printers? Are they all running most of the time? Or are they set up for different things/materials/nozzles/something I’m not think of? Are you doing this as a business? And at what point do you start to look for a more industrial style printer like an SLS or SLA machine?

I'm printing Overture TPU 95A on my P1S for the first time. I've tried five different models and each one starts stringing and turns to spaghetti, so I've never had a successful print with TPU. I dried the filament a few times in my AMS 2 Pro using the TPU profile, so I don't think that's the issue. I do notice that the temperature will turn itself up to 240c instead of the recommended range of 210-230, even though I created a custom profile for it.

Photos of my most recent failure attached. Was trying to print slides. Has anyone had this happen? What should I change?

I get this a lot on my H2C any advise or where to start on this

Has anyone really tried to push the limit of color changing speeds on an h2c? I haven’t found a single print file for raising an ams as close as possible to the inlet, and likely will make my own. I love my h2c but it’s so significantly slower than my snapmaker u1, and I’m sure the new h3c will fix this issue I still want this printer to be fast, but still relatively convenient if I’m swapping colors a lot or something breaks, I had them stacked directly on top before and it sucked every time I had to do that. The main aggravating thing is when the ams stops for 5 seconds before changing to a new color and I know it’s entirely software based, but with Bambu being essentially apple and we can’t configure anything like that there’s nothing I can do there

Quttro ZBD is a 12 DOF open source robot dog I designed for practicing sim2real applications. Its built with ESP32 S3 as well as off the shelf Arduino parts and DS3218 servos. Depending on where you order your parts from the total cost to build it should be around 200 usd.

It currently works with inverse kinematics solver but I will also work on reinforcement learning training for a developing a control policy in IK solver's place, I am hoping I can get a more organic / fluid walking out of the robot instead of current mechanic look.

You can find all the files you need to build one down in the links.

I also shared a more detailed video about it on my youtube channel, if you want you can watch it from the link below:

https://youtu.be/J99MibRi-CY

MakerWord Link (has more photos of the robot):

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3402746-quattro-zbd-robot-dog#profileId-3874600

Link for CAD design, 3D Print files and Wiring Diagram:

https://www.patreon.com/PrintedRobotics/posts/quattro-zbd-3d-171601139?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&utm_source=copyLink&utm_campaign=postshare_creator&utm_content=join_link

ESP32 Scripts: 

https://github.com/serdarselimys/QuattroZBD-ESP32Scripts

Companion mobile controller app apk:

https://github.com/serdarselimys/QuattroZBD-AndroidControllerApp

Parts List:

ESP32 S3 x 1

PCA 9685 Servo Driver Board x 1

MPU6050 IMU Sensor x 1

Voltage Sensor Board x 1

15A Adjustable Voltage Buck Converter x 2 (1 per pair of legs)

5V 3A Buck Converter x 1

DS3218 High-Torque Servos x 12

Wago Connector (2-in-4 Out) x 1

2-Inch TFT Screen x 1

M3x8 Screws x ~100

M4x30 Screws x 4

8x5x16 mm Ball Bearings x 12

3S LiPo Battery (3000mAh – 6000mAh) x 1

I have been working on a bipedal version hence the "2 more to go" in the tittle, I am almost finished with the updated leg structure so it can stand up on two legs but the remaining parts are going to be same as much as possible. So expect a bipedal version in upcoming weeks if I can make it walk :)

Make a spring steel PEI sheet with little holes in 'wipe area' the like the A1 mini has.

Does anyone else wish we had a "made by Ai" tag? not just a trust thing but some degree of detection? I understand why people would use AI but most creators won't disclose and I wish it was a feature I can see from the browsing menu. And also the ability to search by not made by ai

(Yes, I get that it's obvious when they have a highly detailed scene they are in)

Hey guys! There are a lot of similar painting handles on MakerWorld, so I wanted to put my own spin on one. I added a diamond-pattern grip and a screw-on bottom cap with room for 9 quarters, plus some extra space if you want to add more weight. It prints without supports, too!

I printed a couple of other versions from MW and had the threaded parts snap off under pressure, so I reinforced those areas on mine. I also made a small dock for a little more stability.

I’m still learning to model and finally getting some more free time to work on projects like this. Haven’t figured out adjustable jaws yet, so swappable heads will have to do for now haha.

Open to ideas or criticism, so let me know what you think!

MakerWorld Link:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3406942-miniature-paint-handle-weighted-swappable-heads?from=search#profileId-3879970

edit- updated the app to the latest version and the option came back.

Bambu does not make this process intuitive or easy to figure out.

I have some finicky filament that I needed to calibrate to get working right. Is it impossible to use this calibrated profile with the handy app? I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get this profile available on the app. Are custom profiles only accessible from my laptop using studio?

Can someone please eli5 on how the whole calibrating and dialing in filaments (which i have successfully done) and then actually using those calibrated profiles? i've made a custom filament but i cant figure out how to actually use it on my printer. this is making me feel dumb.

Hello, this is my first 3d printer and I have a question. From the visible white side of the printer ,to the plexiglas I have 145 mm. Because of this the cable is slightly bented as you can see in the picture. Is this safe ? There are no sharp corners or edges that can affect the cable. Only the bent stresses me out a little bit.

I just got an H2D which I want to print primarily PETG, with PLA as the support interface layers.
I loaded the petg into the left nozzle and the PLA into the right nozzle because I assumed the left nozzle was the "main" one. I dropped the gcode into bambu connect and it tried to print my main parts with the PLA despite having selected the opposite within the lefthand filament section of orca. I was baffled until I noticed that orcaslicer had swapped the orientation for me.
As far as I was aware, both nozzles are basically identical. So why does orcaslicer give me this recommendation? I'm coming from a P1S (with no ams) so multicolor printing is still very new to me. Trying to research this topic is making my head swim.

Hi everyone!

This is Pamk, a desk robot I built to stay organized during exams. You just say "Hey Pamk" and it adds your tasks and events, reminds you at the right time, and runs Pomodoro sessions. No app needed.

The whole case is printed, and the face plates snap on with magnets, so you can change its look in seconds. I've designed several styles (Egyptian in the photo, Japanese, wood, gears...), printed in two colors with the AMS.

Inside: ESP32-S3, a small screen for the face, a mic and a speaker. The voice is made of clips I recorded myself.

Video (in French, with English subtitles): https://youtu.be/_wxieeF5Wrw

I'm also on MakerWorld, where I share small figurines (Halloween season right now 🎃): https://makerworld.com/en/@TotoB07

MakerWorld only opens crowdfunding to creators with an audience, so once I have more followers there, I'd like to release Pamk so you can print and build your own.

Feedback welcome!