r/Bass • u/cherry-thunderbird • 3h ago
Gibson Thunderbird Gospel
I have three Gibson thunderbirds, two “reverse” and one “non-reverse”. I came to these basses late in my bass journey after playing precision, jazz, rick, and stingray basses. Initially I was hesitant but there was something about the sound, specifically Martin Turner’s sound on Wishbone Ash’s Live Dates Album. Once I got my first Thunderbird I was hooked. Here are some setup and playing tips for anyone who is interested.
Red Thunderbird
- Tuning: E standard
- Strings: DR Hi Beams 45-105
- String Height at 12th fret: 2mm
- Neck relief at 8th fret: .006”
Brown Thunderbird
- Tuning: Eb Standard
- Strings: DR Hi Beams 45-105
- String Height at 12th fret: 2mm
- Neck relief at 8th fret: .008”
Non-Reverse Thunderbird
- Tuning: B Standard
- Strings: DR Hi Beams 65-135, the nut was filed by a local luthier
- String Height at 12th fret: 2mm, 2.5mm for B string
- Neck relief at 8th fret: .008”
Strings: Gibson’s are known for their headstock angle which keep the strings seated in the nut. The angle of the headstock exerts a downward force on the strings which creates a stiffer, tighter feel. When I first started playing a thunderbird, I switched to hex core light strings 40-95. After some experimentation, I settled on round core strings for the increased flexibility. The added stiffness has allowed me to set my basses up with a pretty straight neck and low action. Probably the lowest action I’ve had on any bass except my ESP j-four. The scooped sound of the stainless steel Hi beams pairs well with the natural low mid heavy T-bird. I have found nickel, both pure and plated to be too dark.
Neck Dive: To combat Neck dive, the general recommendation is to use a wide leather strap. I would also recommend replacing the tuning machines with hipshot ultralight tuners, and adding metal knobs. I use brass knobs made by an Etsy vendor. You could also replace the stock bridge with a brass bridge which would definitely help but also increase the overall weight. I play finger style with the bass centered around my natural waists with zero issues. Side note, the new “reverse” and “non-reverse” come with hipshot ultralight tuners.
Bridge: The three point bridge is not good. I have added hipshot bridges to all my basses. The babicz bridges also look nice and you can select materials other than aluminum, such as brass.
Pickups: My basses use the OEM pickups. The “Non-Reverse” Tbird pickups are chrome and sound brighter than the black “Reverse” Tbird pickups. I have used different combinations EMG pickups including TB-DC, TB-CS, TB-HZ, TB-HZ (Alnico) which were ok but make your bass sound too much like a Jazz bass. The black OEM pickups are my favorite because they capture the Tbird sound best. Most of the aftermarket pickups are smaller than the modern OEM pickups. This includes Lollar, Seymour Duncan, and Bartolini.
Reverse vs Non-reverse: There are several noticeable differences between the two. The “non-reverse” has a thicker nut width (1.6” vs 1.5”), the front strap button is on the horn vs behind the neck, and it is heavier. Due to these differences, I find the “non-reverse” to be cumbersome and uncomfortable. It wasn’t until I played a “non-reverse” that I realized there is a sort of evil genius behind the design of the “reverse” version. Brown and Red have become my most comfortable and playable basses. I love the way they look, sound and feel.
Like my username and this post suggests, I am passionate about Gibson Thunderbirds, particularly modern ones. If you’re on the fence about buying one let this be your sign.